Cleverco

If it was correctly connected to the CTEK and charging, I would guess a drain exists someplace, or perhaps an inside light was inadvertently left on. I would examine the radar detector initially. If you drive it quite regularly, I would not recommend charging it constantly. It will likely reduce the battery's lifespan, but after four years, it should remain functional. Attempt to activate the desulphation mode on the CTEK, if available.

Verify that there is a specific wire harness with a pin designated for activating towing mode capabilities. Consult with the installer prior to making a purchase. I possess a Brink plugin using this wiring, and it functions flawlessly.

It seems remarkable; the combination of chocolate and schnitzel has convinced me! Thank you for sharing.

I am curious if it is feasible to revert to a previous firmware/software version; it may be prudent to enquire if someone is still using the old version and if they might submit a file to a sharing site for your download. Indeed, there is no assurance that the updater software will let an earlier version to supersede a newer one; but, it is worth trying. I will convey your concerns to the local dealer or directly to UK headquarters; upon notification, they may rectify this problem in the next update.

I do not possess a Sorento, nor do I have any current issues with my Soul EV; however, on a previous vehicle (not a KIA), adjusting the volume during announcements permanently altered the volume level. Additionally, there may be a speed-based sound compensation feature; in my Soul, it is located in the "Sounds" or "Audio" menu. I cannot recall the exact designation, but it is not among the media player volume options, rather it is found under "System". It cannot be adjusted; it is only either on or off, and seems to have little impact on the Soul EV. Does it reduce the audio volume while navigation, and if not, did it previously do so? If the navigation system is malfunctioning, temporarily unplugging the 12v battery may reset it. Merely some rambling thoughts before to retiring for the night.

Consider using the services of either Big Red or Brake Engineering.

Occasionally, I will accelerate the automobile to its maximum engine speed, but I have not familiarised myself with the optimal moments to change gears. During my time as a drag racer, I learnt that shifting gears at 7500 rpm, solely based on the engine's power output, was not always the optimal choice. To get such information, I would examine the specifications and curves of the cam. I have not previously engaged in such activity with this particular vehicle. In my opinion, it would be more advantageous to shift the vehicle at a point below the redline, when it is still generating power across the range, rather than waiting for it to nearly level out or reach the redline.

The shock experienced while decelerating is likely caused by the abrupt transition from second to first gear when the vehicle comes to a complete stop. Unfortunately, all of them engage in this behaviour. The only solution is to rebuild the gearbox mechatronic. The actual reason of the issue is still unknown, however, there are many effective solutions available. These include a software update, replacing the fluid and filter, installing new solenoids, using the updated separator plate, and installing new dampers.

The issue arises from the significant uncertainty caused by the fact that the before and after facelift transfer instances are fundamentally different. Being a 04 vehicle, you belong to the post facelift category, exactly as mine. This means you have an active multi-plate wet clutch. The oil selection tools may sometimes malfunction and recommend the use of pre-facelift fluid, which may cause damage to a facelift transfer case. The £30 for DTF is not worth risking.

To ensure reliability, it is advisable to get one litre of DTF from BMW, as recommended by @MamaKiddo. It is not advisable to take the chance, since damaging the transfer case might result in significant expenses. You will not use the whole litre since it only takes around 850 millimetres.

I own Autosol at my residence, and the headlights on the CLK vehicle are exhibiting signs of cloudiness. How might this be used to restore their clarity?

Yes, they flash like low-beam halogen lamps, so you won't blind other drivers. Once the bulbssr is attached, just rotate it until the blade is vertical and point it towards a wall to adjust the cut off line.

I apologise for the disorganised response, but these were the bulbs that I purchased three years ago. My 2019 Vogue with Ali-fitted LED lights are almost identical to the ones I purchased three years ago; they're a great investment at about £35 each. I sold the vehicle in the meantime. These will meet your expectations. Ensure that they are only referred to as HIGH BEAM. Avoid HIGH &LOW at all costs.

HB3

On each side, the shutter undergoes a dipping motion. I installed LEDs on mine, and it was a remarkable improvement, comparable to the LEDs produced by manufacturers.