Bleakerje

Observe the central point on the diagram. Observe the numeral 52730A and go to the left, where it seems to be the cover.

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OVP is a dual integrated. Eighty-nine million seven hundred twenty-three thousand six Manufactured in Hungary Removed the black plastic from beneath the battery. Located the relay and removed it from its holder. Accessing the battery via the female connector proved challenging without removing it. Reposition it temporarily. Tomorrow, I will remove the batteries and worry about misplacing the Kenwood radio, since I do not have the code for it. Maybe I should get a relay, but not a Mercedes one since it could be costly, to take a chance that the issue lies with the relay. However, all indications suggest that removing the relay may deactivate the ABS warning light on the dashboard, as mentioned in a post located here.

Just opened the hood to have a peek. Passenger side battery. Black plastic cover is located behind it. The heater pipe located near the battery and cover is somewhat moist. There are two jubilee clips and some green discoloration present. Perhaps it is experiencing water loss, causing this region to become warm and moist. Refusing to assist with a relay 🙄 I often worry and get anxious in circumstances like these. As I am.

Attempted to submit a picture of the damaged automobile, but received an error notice stating that the file size is too huge.

The probability of my being able to view the fuel pump is unlikely. The automobile was lowered by the previous owner.

I haven't checked yet since it's freezing outdoors and I'm an older man. 😂

You are all really intelligent. Thank you. 😊

If the weather is favourable tomorrow, I will inspect the relay, provided that I am able to locate it. 😂

I have not.

Thank you for your reply. Would I, or someone in close proximity to the gasoline pump, be able to hear it priming? Would the system activate when the ignition is switched on, before starting the engine?

Thank you.

The automobile has been owned for about 4 months. Travelled around 1200 miles since then. Unaware of the service history. It has accumulated 67,000 miles and has been validated. Travelled 20 kilometres without any issues with the automobile. My daughter and her two children climbed in; I had never had passengers before. The car starts easily, but the ABS indicator remains on. After driving away, I stopped at an intersection and saw the engine idling at about 1000rpm, although it usually idles around 500rpm. Shift the gear into neutral, causing the engine revolutions to increase to 3000. After dropping off my family, I had a tense trip back home. The next day, it does not start. Related the narrative to the breakdown specialist. He removed the air filter and saw that the throttle flap was not closing. He closed it, and the vehicle began. He applied a significant amount of WD40 into the throttle body, but the engine's rpm would not go below 3000. On the next day, I inspected the throttle body and found that it was closed, nevertheless the vehicle still would not start. Is the throttle flap fully mechanical? I have conducted research online. I suspect that the relay responsible for controlling the fuel pump is malfunctioning. Unconventional relay! Internal circuit board. It seems to regulate several functions, including air conditioning. If it malfunctions, it might impact the idling. The activation of the ABS light coinciding with the idle and starting issue struck me as peculiar. This is my question. The gasoline pump is located underneath the vehicle, in close proximity to the back axle. Will I hear this running if the ignition is switched on? If I activate the ignition, should I be able to audibly perceive the relay contacts opening and closing? If it functions similarly to an ordinary inexpensive relay. Would anybody want to discuss my opinions on the relay?

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Through which warranty provider did you get the extended warranty? Thank you.

Indeed, that is possible. I owned an Astra that emitted a noise indicative of engine malfunction. Vibration occurs at 2000 revolutions per minute. It was discovered that the bracket on which the cat had bolted was loose. I only performed the action at a speed of 2000 revolutions per minute.

Have you inspected for any detached brackets?

Excessive fueling may lead to engine knocking during acceleration.

Given the age of the injectors, it is likely that the flow rate codes have become outdated. If the programme functions well, there is no need to be concerned with code.

Have you attempted to extract a portion of the oil?

In fact, the 2012 model is somewhat more potent since it does not include the complete adblue mechanism.

I had a same problem while attempting to detach my wiper arms. I have recently created a distinct article on the puller that I ultimately acquired. You may want to have a look at it for future reference.

That aligns with my thoughts.