Bedelon

Thank you for your reply and the advice on this position. Today, I will start the process of reconstructing the head. At some juncture, I will attempt to use the customised screwdriver tool. I would like to express my gratitude to Coolhands and Flightops for their insightful replies. Thank you very much. Mike, I have noticed that you have mentioned resetting "attributes" when doing a task like this, particularly in relation to the Vanos and O2 sensors. Unfortunately, I lack any sophisticated diagnostic equipment other than a low-cost handheld code reader. Therefore, I am wondering whether it is essential to reset the base settings manually, or if the ECU will automatically reset itself after a certain amount of operating. Since the MOT has expired, it is now challenging to take the vehicle for a test drive or to a nearby mechanic to utilise their diagnostic tools. Ideally, I would want to ensure that it is operating smoothly and within acceptable parameters before presenting it for its retest. Thank you.

Thank you, I much value your support. I will do a search for the videos on the platform known as Youtube.

I own a Mini Cooper R56 1.6 petrol vehicle with a mileage of 90,000 km. My vehicle recently did not pass the MOT test due to rust on the front subframe and failed emissions. I have obtained an additional subframe, which is already taken care of. To address the problem of emissions, I have made the decision to do an engine refresh, taking into consideration the mileage and the significant amount of smoke emitted while starting the engine after a brief period of idling. The vehicle had a recent replacement of its catalytic converter (CAT) two years ago, as well as the installation of both upstream and downstream oxygen (O2) sensors. The automobile has been operating without any issues and has not shown any problem messages. However, during the test, it failed due to exceeding the limitations for "Exhaust CO content at idle" and "Exhaust Hydrocarbon content after 2nd fast idle". The CO readings were measured at 0.29%, while the HC levels were found to be 274ppm during the fast idle test. During the second fast idle test, the carbon monoxide (CO) level was measured at 0.51% and the hydrocarbon (HC) level was measured at 279 parts per million (ppm). The natural idle test resulted in a carbon monoxide (CO) level of 0.65%. The engine has been removed and disassembled, and I now have all the necessary components except for an oil pump, which seems to be unavailable from Febi. I am doing decoking on it, replacing the valve stem seals, installing a new timing chain kit that includes Vanos hubs, replacing the rings, and I have just placed an order for a set of hydraulic valve lifters since the majority of the sixteen already installed are rather rigid. My primary inquiry is how to reassemble the spring-loaded intake rocker shaft assembly when the time comes to reassemble it. I cautiously loosened the whole assembly in order to remove it, but a few of the roller rockers unexpectedly sprang out in the process, making it seem somewhat difficult to reassemble. The reliable Haynes manual provides comprehensive information on most topics, but when it comes to the disassembly and reassembly of the intake camshaft, it simply advises seeing an expert. Are there any hyperlinks to a lesson or has this topic been previously addressed in this forum? Can someone provide assistance or guide me towards the correct path? Another question I have is about resetting the "attributes" after completing a task like this, particularly with relation to the Vanos and O2 sensors. Given that I lack any diagnostic equipment other than a low-cost code reader, I am uncertain if it is imperative to reset the characteristics or whether the system will automatically reset them after a certain duration. Since the MOT has expired, I am unable to take it to a nearby mechanic for them to do diagnostic tests on it. Thank you in advance, everyone.

Indeed, I concur. At times, I have contemplated the idea of making modifications to it. However, in retrospect, it would have been more logical to first get a 55K. Regardless, the included speed limits would vociferously admonish me even farther.

Initially, I was indecisive between choosing the V12 or the CL55K. With my Jaguar V8 that has been enhanced with a supercharger and modifications, I initially had a preference for it, but I decided to test drive both automobiles. There is no competition. Indeed, I have had to spend a few dollars in recent years, and among all the automobiles, Mrs. Swotty has a particular fondness for the CL. She has the ability to discern quality upon visual observation. (Indeed, it is only natural for me to express such a sentiment, wouldn't you agree? 😂)

The automobile is very pleasing. I really like that option over my silver vehicle with a black interior, which I have gradually been used to.

This is a computer. Consider it as toggling the power state: turning it off and then on again 😄

Referring to inserting a paper clip into the reset button, often located near the volume control. This action restarts the main control unit without altering any settings or causing any data loss.

You must possess exceptional fortune, because I have never seen any independent sellers in my vicinity that provide their products for a price that is just half of what the dealers charge. The cost of a "A" service for my SL is £190 at indy1, £210 at indy2, and £240 at the dealer, which also includes mobilo for another year.

I concur. What are the references you have consulted? I am not perusing any of it.

A fresh pair of non-OEM, yet of acceptable quality, is priced at £10.

Yes, satisfactory overall. The vehicle has had just one owner, has been driven for 95,000 km, and comes with a full service history (FSH). Available at a price of £7,295.

Greetings, everyone. I am interested in purchasing a pre-owned (60 plate) 530d SE, which seems to be in decent condition, except for the centre caps of the alloy wheels, which are all in a similar worn-out state. Is this only corrosion?

Avoid looking at that sign. It is the work of the devil.

There is a commonly used term that often refers to something that does not fit or is not worn after it, particularly in the context of China. When it comes to purchasing items that are in dire need of improvement, it is advisable to avoid purchasing them from Asia. The individual responsible for refurbishing these pumps is from the United Kingdom, and they claim that their work is effective and significantly more cost-effective than purchasing a new pump.

The provided link seems to provide the most cost-effective solution for bypassing gasoline pumps.

I would not bother with the secondhand pumps. Additionally, the inexpensive pumps from China are not practical. However, there is an individual on eBay who refurbishes them, offering the most cost-effective choice. The link provided below directs you to Mike1967, a member of this community. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/276331664104?itmmeta=01HS41W7J95V7BJRTFCHSJJGMH&hash=item4056a692e8:g:P6cAAOSwjX9kRSRZ&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA4KxZyPpmN4UaVHp75JNS6iqhOdHPK/Kaxa2zjfJ3/215zoSiK130R8QsNkf9QFQd6BTBihdY0LHiYRsdHcWcNvK3sOMNS+UiclkDomrzn7TJ4ALIc7HFcqDcyZzkeMkTWZJbxTAAujnFCyTnybFIkeGS+XHbwjcoeKaNeIR80WpNO2eE9ZYTFLjDeLrcuPx9ReMUfw3qTtNteDW9LvQwAsgdc5k9hFB3YGjJU5GGGibIkIRnFhBL14PMipuC3VTKvrpUhj1iVsS3pKR3jk23sPahLRH2FwebQYCxSjpPbVtv|tkp:Bk9SR6z58IHJYw&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338767388&toolid=10001&customid=130832X1595941X355db92f04a0f632376e5dd05c922d64

That is intriguing. I believed that the majority of individuals want to transition from using OEM buckets to opting for diamond stitched ones. What was the rationale behind your decision? From my understanding, the diamond stitch and ordinary OEM bucket seats may be easily interchanged. However, this does not apply to the Sports seats. These devices are easily compatible, although they do need a certain degree of coding.

I have checked my Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) and the selections are accurate. 1 out of 8 V10+ vehicles were produced in solar orange in 2017, with significantly fewer when considering further choices.

Inspect for water infiltration at the DME/ECU since the temperature gauge rising directly to the red zone suggests a lack of communication from the ECU.

I own a W238 cab with NTG 5. I am seeking suggestions for Android devices, specifically ones that are compatible with the northwestern region.

The next-generation 8 series will begin manufacturing in mid-2026.

I own the automobile, which is now stored in the folder beside the guidebook. However, I purchased it alone in 2004 🙂

I recall reading that the availability of new IR fobs has ceased, however it would be prudent to verify this with the parts department at a dealership. The MBSS (Mercedes-Benz Security System) alarm/immobiliser was installed in the UK by Scorpion prior to being delivered to the dealer. I possess the certificate for my automobile from 1997.