Bedelon

Understood. Thank you for the information! Yes, if I understand well, the plug should be connected to a hoover control unit. Are there hoses linked to a vacuum box that is positioned on the EGR cooler? However, based on my observations, I do not own the vacuum box or a suitable location on the cooler to accommodate it. Therefore, I would appreciate a photograph of an N47D20A engine or assistance from someone knowledgeable about whether my EGR is properly linked with the corresponding hoses. I will replace the breather pipe this week to see whether it provides any improvement.

I have used bimmercode to scan codes and have obtained the following codes pertaining to motor electronics: The code 40D4 refers to the regulation of exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) with a specific focus on position control. The 4C9E code indicates a plausibility issue with the exhaust gas recirculation valve. The number 4501 is equal to 4501. Control of exhaust gas recirculation and variation in control When I detach the vacuum pipe connecting the intake manifold to the pressure converter, the vehicle operates smoothly without stalling. However, the sole drawback is that it lacks responsiveness when the throttle is applied. Therefore, it is suboptimal. Could the pressure converter be the defective component? After replacing the EGR valve with a new one from BMW Two years ago

Indeed, the breather pipe requires attention since it seems much larger after the tape is applied. However, because it is the tiniest break, I am uncertain about its potential impact on the EGR system. Could you kindly elucidate the impact of the breather pipe on the EGR system? Indeed, the pressure converter is linked to the EGR valve, which is responsible for regulating the opening and closing of the valve. The issue arises when the automobile experiences stalling and exhibits poor performance. Most likely, the valve is experiencing a problem where it remains in an open position. Nevertheless, the valve has been thoroughly cleaned and is now capable of unrestricted movement. I don't comprehend why it would get stuck in an open position and result in these problems.

Certainly! There is a single vacuum line that connects the intake manifold to the pressure converter. Additionally, there is another hose that connects the EGR valve directly to the pressure converter. An electrical connection is unattached and housed inside a black plastic component. This is the condition in which I purchased the vehicle in 2019, and as previously said, it has functioned well in this state. However, I believe there is a deficiency since the electrical connection is only resting in a black plastic component. Shouldn't it be linked to a hoover control unit or some other device?

My 2008 BMW E91 320D with an N47D20A engine is experiencing EGR problems. The issues began two years ago when the vehicle suddenly stopped and lost power. This was determined to be caused by a faulty EGR valve, which was subsequently replaced by a workshop. Subsequently, the vehicle operated well until it underwent maintenance at the same facility this autumn to replace the valve cover gasket. Subsequently, the automobile has had recurring problems with the egr valve, resulting in unpredictable power loss and stalling. This may often be attributed to the egr valve being stuck in the open position. Nevertheless, I have dismantled the EGR valve, thoroughly cleaned it, and verified that it is able to move without any obstruction. However, the issue persists. I Upon consulting Realoem, it was seen that the automobile is expected to have a single vacuum control unit and a single pressure converter, both of which are linked to the egr system via the vacuum hoses. However, I own just the pressure converter, and it seems that the connection for the vacuum control unit is merely attached to a black plastic component that serves the purpose of concealing the connector. I purchased the vacuum control unit and a set of vacuum hoses to ensure proper connectivity. However, when examining the genuine original equipment manufacturer (OEM) specifications, it is evident that there should be a vacuum box present, which is directly linked to the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) cooler. When I inspect my EGR cooler. There is an absence of anything at that location, and it seems inappropriate for anything to be present there. The vacuum box is linked to the vacuum control unit, along with a t-hose that links the egr valve, pressure converter, and intake. If my comprehension is accurate. Is there anybody who has a euro standard N47D20A engine and can provide a photograph of their EGR Cooler and valve without the vacuum box attached to the cooler? Alternatively, could you provide instructions on how all the components should be interconnected? Currently, I am unable to financially support an egr deletion for my vehicle. Therefore, my primary objective is to restore my car's performance to its optimal state. Thank you in advance!

The N43 engine can handle running at index 11 without any issues, since I had previously installed four of them in my vehicle with an extended warranty. However, it took some time to identify and resolve the underlying problem, which included replacing both vanos hubs. Based on my extensive investigation and observations of other similar remarks, it is not advisable to combine index numbers, unless they belong to the same bank. It was certainly related to the act of combining different substances. If your injectors are the original ones, their maximum index will be 9. Since they are from 2008, they could belong to a "build" version that is one iteration earlier, but not necessarily index 8.

This reminds me of the tactics used by unscrupulous used automobile salesmen in the past, who would acquire vehicles that had been involved in accidents. I wonder whether this practice still persists in the present day. Join two halves of an automobile by welding, often by removing the superior end of one half and welding it to the better end of the other half. This process is sometimes referred to as a cut-and-shut. Subsequently, dispose of it for whichever amount they are able to get.

It is necessary to write code for this, since coding is required for everything in today's world.

It is possible that the issue is still with the injector. However, if that is really the case, the cost of repairing it will be relatively lower compared to the newer models, which cost £500 or more. I would still do a leak off test.

This is a description of the transition from the N52 to the N53 engine throughout the years. The N53 engine is known for having faulty injectors that often malfunction, even in the newest index 11 version. If you have the later engine, I would recommend testing the injectors.

The issue might perhaps be caused by the injector. May I know the year of the car?

The windows will be functional after being operated several times. I have installed these in many vehicles and have had them on my own vehicle since I purchased it. I had just removed my today because of their susceptibility to UV damage. I am currently removing these since it enhances the overall visual appearance.

Impressive. It is quite astonishing that a firm that charges such a high premium for carbon components fails to provide a product that fits well and includes all the necessary pieces for mounting it to the vehicle. They evoke a sense of resemblance to vorsteiner in my imagination. Throughout a span of two decades, I have gained extensive experience with them, working with many components on several platforms. It is evident that there is a consistent pattern of their below-average quality in relation to their pricing. However, the appearance of their components is rather appealing.

Greetings If you are capable of doing all the tasks independently, the R8 is an exceedingly cost-effective automobile.

Is York in close proximity to your location?

Thank you for your reply and the advice on this position. Today, I will start the process of reconstructing the head. At some juncture, I will attempt to use the customised screwdriver tool. I would like to express my gratitude to Coolhands and Flightops for their insightful replies. Thank you very much. Mike, I have noticed that you have mentioned resetting "attributes" when doing a task like this, particularly in relation to the Vanos and O2 sensors. Unfortunately, I lack any sophisticated diagnostic equipment other than a low-cost handheld code reader. Therefore, I am wondering whether it is essential to reset the base settings manually, or if the ECU will automatically reset itself after a certain amount of operating. Since the MOT has expired, it is now challenging to take the vehicle for a test drive or to a nearby mechanic to utilise their diagnostic tools. Ideally, I would want to ensure that it is operating smoothly and within acceptable parameters before presenting it for its retest. Thank you.

Thank you, I much value your support. I will do a search for the videos on the platform known as Youtube.

I own a Mini Cooper R56 1.6 petrol vehicle with a mileage of 90,000 km. My vehicle recently did not pass the MOT test due to rust on the front subframe and failed emissions. I have obtained an additional subframe, which is already taken care of. To address the problem of emissions, I have made the decision to do an engine refresh, taking into consideration the mileage and the significant amount of smoke emitted while starting the engine after a brief period of idling. The vehicle had a recent replacement of its catalytic converter (CAT) two years ago, as well as the installation of both upstream and downstream oxygen (O2) sensors. The automobile has been operating without any issues and has not shown any problem messages. However, during the test, it failed due to exceeding the limitations for "Exhaust CO content at idle" and "Exhaust Hydrocarbon content after 2nd fast idle". The CO readings were measured at 0.29%, while the HC levels were found to be 274ppm during the fast idle test. During the second fast idle test, the carbon monoxide (CO) level was measured at 0.51% and the hydrocarbon (HC) level was measured at 279 parts per million (ppm). The natural idle test resulted in a carbon monoxide (CO) level of 0.65%. The engine has been removed and disassembled, and I now have all the necessary components except for an oil pump, which seems to be unavailable from Febi. I am doing decoking on it, replacing the valve stem seals, installing a new timing chain kit that includes Vanos hubs, replacing the rings, and I have just placed an order for a set of hydraulic valve lifters since the majority of the sixteen already installed are rather rigid. My primary inquiry is how to reassemble the spring-loaded intake rocker shaft assembly when the time comes to reassemble it. I cautiously loosened the whole assembly in order to remove it, but a few of the roller rockers unexpectedly sprang out in the process, making it seem somewhat difficult to reassemble. The reliable Haynes manual provides comprehensive information on most topics, but when it comes to the disassembly and reassembly of the intake camshaft, it simply advises seeing an expert. Are there any hyperlinks to a lesson or has this topic been previously addressed in this forum? Can someone provide assistance or guide me towards the correct path? Another question I have is about resetting the "attributes" after completing a task like this, particularly with relation to the Vanos and O2 sensors. Given that I lack any diagnostic equipment other than a low-cost code reader, I am uncertain if it is imperative to reset the characteristics or whether the system will automatically reset them after a certain duration. Since the MOT has expired, I am unable to take it to a nearby mechanic for them to do diagnostic tests on it. Thank you in advance, everyone.

Indeed, I concur. At times, I have contemplated the idea of making modifications to it. However, in retrospect, it would have been more logical to first get a 55K. Regardless, the included speed limits would vociferously admonish me even farther.

Initially, I was indecisive between choosing the V12 or the CL55K. With my Jaguar V8 that has been enhanced with a supercharger and modifications, I initially had a preference for it, but I decided to test drive both automobiles. There is no competition. Indeed, I have had to spend a few dollars in recent years, and among all the automobiles, Mrs. Swotty has a particular fondness for the CL. She has the ability to discern quality upon visual observation. (Indeed, it is only natural for me to express such a sentiment, wouldn't you agree? 😂)

The automobile is very pleasing. I really like that option over my silver vehicle with a black interior, which I have gradually been used to.

This is a computer. Consider it as toggling the power state: turning it off and then on again 😄

Referring to inserting a paper clip into the reset button, often located near the volume control. This action restarts the main control unit without altering any settings or causing any data loss.