BuffUpdate

Simply drop the vehicle completely onto the ground and it should automatically inflate. Then, connect the ista device and remove any codes that may have been recorded.

So, if I understand correctly, you have not yet returned it to the ground? My car's functionality was restored only when it was placed back on all four wheels. To get ista, you have the option to download it from several web sources or buy an enet lead from Amazon.

When I replaced the bags on my previous f11, I followed the same procedure as you and removed the pipes to empty them. Following the modification and adjustment of the vehicle, the suspension inflated to its regular level. It may be beneficial to use advanced diagnostic tools such as ISTA for a more thorough scan.

Placing a large quantity of silica gel in the automobile will draw in and soak up moisture. I store one in the trunk to prevent moisture accumulation.

A few people, myself included, have added Bluetooth battery monitors. Provides instantaneous, contactless voltage measurements and is capable of performing cranking and charging tests. After comparing the battery's performance before and after the security update, there is no discernible change. Currently, the battery is at around 12.8 volts, 8 hours after a drive earlier today.

It is peculiar that Land Rover sells (or sold) a connection to facilitate the use of their branded CTek charger on the Evoque 2, L551 models, which are all either MHEV or PHEV. This is remarkable since independent sources indicate that these models have a 12v battery that should not be charged while connected to the vehicle. As per usual, the purported professional lacks knowledge in his statements. Based on my experience, it is possible to charge the batteries in the vehicle. However, it is important to avoid using the reconditioning option, as it raises the voltage beyond 15 volts, which is not compatible with the car's systems.

I have just purchased a pre-owned EKP module from the online marketplace eBay. At a price of £20, it is highly recommended to give it a try. I will attempt to locate the YouTube video, however there are several videos available, indicating that the EKP (Electronic Keying Protocol) may be experiencing issues. Conceptually, I am obligated to programme the substitute component for my automobile. I am unable to do so, thus we will observe and ascertain the outcome. I will inform you of my progress.

Indeed, I seen a YouTube video on this matter, where the individual disconnected his Electronic Control Unit (ECU), resulting in the continuous operation of the fuel pump located inside the fuel tank. If that statement is accurate, it will assist me in identifying and resolving any issues. Nowadays, things are becoming further intricate and challenging to ascertain. Today, I will begin with the execution of the EKP. I really appreciate your assistance.

I am now located in Yorkshire, namely between the cities of Leeds and Goole. The Foxwell NT650 seems to have a rudimentary design, and I had to install the software onto it in order to use it with my automobile. It functions primarily as a service light reset tool rather than a comprehensive scanning. Amazon.co.uk

I attempted to get ISTA. I dedicated two days to the task of retroactively installing Windows 7 and related software onto my Windows 11 computers. Did not make any progress. I am unaware of the specific modules that the Foxwell examines, but, it does indicate that there are no defects detected. Which component is the most likely to be malfunctioning? I am capable of replacing the fuel pressure sensor. Next, the gasoline tank lift pump. Next, the module responsible for controlling fuel pressure. The price for the first scanner is £45, then it increases to £120, and finally to £59. In comparison, another scanner costs £400. I have a strong affection for this automobile and am eager to repair it.

Thank you,MundeDas,,for mentioning the Foxwell NT650. Although I may lack intelligence, I performed a vehicle scan at my residence when the limp mode indicator was not on. Perhaps I should consider pulling over to the side of the road and use the limp mode indicator to do a scan. I am capable of reaching a speed of 80 miles per hour while I am in 6th gear, allowing the gasoline to flow properly. However, if I attempt to accelerate in lower ratios, the issue arises immediately. I expected a defect to be recorded and stored. The integrity of the in-tank lift pump may be questionable, since it experienced freezing over the winter a few years ago, necessitating a wait until the gasoline thawed due to the presence of water in the fuel or waxing. I have not replaced the pressure regulator or module, and I am concerned that the high-pressure fuel pump (HPFP) may be contaminated with swarf. I have not observed. Instead of just replacing several costly components, I want a methodical and rational approach.

My 2010 E90 LCI is malfunctioning. The engine requires around 4 seconds of cranking to start. Once initiated, the vehicle will maintain a speed of 80 miles per hour on the road. However, it may experience stalling and engine shutdowns in urban areas, particularly while accelerating. It will thereafter reboot after a brief period of time. The limp mode indicator illuminates when I have difficulties. I have a suspicion that the fuel pressure is low and I am now seeking advise on whether I should replace the lift pump in the tank, the fuel pressure regulator, or the fuel pressure control module. The Foxwell code reader I purchased is ineffective. The report indicates that no errors or issues were detected. I replaced the fuel filter and inspected the injector leak off, finding no issues. The diesel particulate filter (DPF) is clean and successfully undergoes regeneration. The glow plugs are quite new. The vehicle has accumulated a mileage of 135,000 kilometres and was manufactured in the year 2010. Do you have any opinions or ideas to share?

The second generation of the R8 is priced at 8500 units from the manufacturer in my market.

The value remains constant at 8500, regardless of the mode. Default configuration. It must be a melody. Personally, I would not place my confidence in a melody that allows the engine to reach a maximum speed of 8900 revolutions per minute. If the manufacturing engineers have included tolerances up to 8500, I will put my confidence in their work and proceed accordingly.

Considering the mileage, I would recommend doing a service on it, as it aligns with the mileage specified by ZF for servicing.

CrawlerTagz , you will need to send an email to Island 4x4 UK in order to inquire about the appropriate shocks for your vehicle. Please have your VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) readily available. Although they are not officially listed, they do have the Delphi shocks available. I purchased a set of new Delphi shocks from them for my 2010 FFRRSC at a price of approximately $328.00 each. The shocks arrived in less than a week and the installation process was relatively trouble-free, except for one bolt at the bottom of the shock that was frozen. To remove the bolt, I had to utilise a torch, an impact gun, and a generous amount of PB blaster. The usage of the DC111 is essential for the O-ring seals. It is highly recommended that you adhere to my instructions, as they will provide the most return on your investment.

I would seek the services of a different mechanic, as A has suggested. Disabling the air suspension on one of these trucks would significantly diminish one of the most outstanding features of this vehicle. Visit Island 4x4 UK for competitive pricing on Delphi front struts for SC trucks, along with expedited delivery options. Avoid Arnott since they only repair the airbags and recycle the worn-out shocks. Delphi and Bilstein provide newly released shock absorbers and air suspension bags. It is recommended to get a tube of Dow Corning 111 in order to apply it on all the O ring seals of the airline. This will effectively maintain the softness of the O rings and prevent any leakage when the temperatures drop below freezing. It is important to note that the traction control system relies on the electric shocks. If you replace them with springs, you will eliminate the safety protection they provide. In the event that the vehicle begins to move laterally, the traction control, ABS, and suspension systems may aid in the process of regaining control.

I have a rather indistinct recollection of encountering an unmarked speed bump and making contact with it. While driving on a wet road some time ago, the rear of the vehicle had a significant impact. Additionally, several of the speed cushions that I often ride over are showing signs of wear. It is probable that these factors are the source of the damage, considering that it is located on the inside of the wheel/tyre. I must use more caution in the future. I am grateful that I spent £36 for the policy with my RAC breakdown since it includes the expense of replacing it. (£200 per corner!)

The most recent update is that I experienced vibration at higher speeds. As a result, I took the initiative to repair both the front track control arms and tie rod ends. Their affordability is satisfactory, and while there was a little degree of movement in one of the joints, it was not substantial. Nevertheless, my vibration persists and is gradually worse. After replacing the front end pieces, I have noticed that the vibration is originating from the back. Today, I have raised the vehicle and thoroughly inspected the rear linkage and stabiliser bars/suspension. I have not detected any looseness or movement in these components. The propeller shaft joints seem to be in good condition and there is no audible noise coming from the middle bearing. Nevertheless, I discovered that both rear tyres had incurred a substantial bulge on the inner wall (photographs included). Both sides of the wheel are in the same position, which might account for the vibration. The distortion of the tyre may be the cause. In addition to damage from potholes, there are many other factors that might lead to the simultaneous failure of both tyres.

A new bearing was installed this evening. The task that I had anticipated to be a straightforward one-hour endeavour ended up taking two and a half hours. The primary reason is because accessing one of the top Torx bolts that secures the bearing is difficult with a standard Torx socket and wrench owing to the obstruction caused by the bottom of the McPherson strut. I successfully created a tool that is compatible with the Torx bolt and enables me to attach a break bar to the end, facilitating the opening of this particular bolt. All of them are securely fastened, yet once they are opened, they may be readily removed. The second issue was the inadequate fastening of the brake disc using a tiny bolt. In January, the discs were replaced with BMW I. However, upon my arrival, I discovered that the retainer bolt had been fastened so tightly that the Torx bit only rounded off the bolt, necessitating the use of drilling to remove it. Fortunately, I had an assortment of nuts at my disposal to reattach the disc onto the new bearing. In addition to these two problems, the task itself is rather simple and has successfully resolved my vibration issue so far. The whole expense for the 5e task amounted to £50 for the bearing assembly and an additional £20 for the purchase of new Torx sockets, namely the T60 size, which was not included in my previous set.

I appreciate all of your responses. While travelling to work this morning at around 50mph, I detected a little vibration. In response, I used the brakes while maintaining power. The intensity of the shaking decreased dramatically. I am more inclined to believe that the issue is with the wheel bearing. Therefore, I have placed an order for a new one and will assess the situation after I have installed it. This morning, I inspected the tie rods and ball joints using a pry bar and could not detect any looseness or motion.

Thank you. I attempted to inspect the tie rods and ball joint, but I did not see any discernible motion. I would have expected them to produce a faint "knocking" sound when driven on uneven terrain, but I have not experienced such a noise. I will reevaluate the situation tomorrow.

My 2016 430i is experiencing a subtle humming sound and vibration that is perceptible via the steering wheel and the driver's seat. The variation is minimal and depends on the pace. I suspected that the wheel balance was compromised when I saw that a wheel weight was absent from the nearside wheel (or at least, that was my first assumption). Today, I had both wheels rebalanced in the hopes that this will alleviate the vibration. Regrettably, it has not. I have elevated the front of the vehicle and have not detected any looseness in the front left wheel. However, I have noticed a little amount of movement in the front right wheel when I grasp it at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions and gently sway it from side to side. The displacement of this movement is about 2mm. I am unable to perceive any motion while swaying in a vertical direction. I assume that these are the first indications of a malfunctioning front wheel bearing. Are there any further hypotheses on the causes that I should consider before proceeding with the purchase of a bearing kit? The car has barely covered 50,000 km, so one would have expected the bearings to survive considerably longer. However, considering the current condition of the country's roads, this may not be surprising.