AmericaMonster

Significant issues with disc thickness variation and judder may arise if the vehicle is stationary with damp brakes, frequently following cleaning. Moist pads leave an indelible mark on the disc that cannot be eradicated. Merely a consideration to raise awareness.

From a specialist in alignment.... Is adhering to the road's camber customary? Indeed, it is typical for a vehicle to veer or "drift" marginally towards the lower side of a road's camber. This is attributable to the design of roadways for drainage, a characteristic referred to as road crown. Reasons for Vehicles Adhering to Camber Roads are deliberately constructed with a little curvature, known as a "crown," where the centre is the apex, facilitating water drainage towards the gutters. A vehicle inherently follows this incline due to gravitational forces and its alignment specifications. Normal Drift: On standard roadways, which are frequently sloped to the left for drainage in right-hand drive nations such as the UK, a vehicle will subtly veer in that direction. A slight, continual steering correction will be automatically implemented to maintain the car's straight trajectory without conscious thought. Differential Sensitivity: Certain vehicles exhibit greater sensitivity to road camber than others, influenced by elements such as suspension architecture, steering mechanism, tire dimensions, and alignment parameters (e.g., caster and toe). Adverse Camber: When navigating a road with an atypical or opposing camber (e.g., on the incorrect side of the roadway or an elevated curve), one will observe the vehicle veering in the opposite direction, indicating that the road's slope, rather than a defect in the vehicle, is the source of the issue. When to Express Concern A mild drift is typical; however, a strong, continuous, or exhausting drag indicates a potential problem that necessitates examination. A professional inspection of your vehicle is advisable if you encounter: A notable force exerted even on ostensibly level or opposing-cambered roads. Irregular or accelerated tyre degradation. A steering wheel that remains perpetually misaligned while driving straight on a flat road. The issue manifested abruptly following contact with a pothole or curb. A professional four-wheel alignment by an expert may guarantee that your vehicle's geometry adheres to the manufacturer's guidelines, thereby reducing the impact of road camber to a normal, manageable level.

Appears somewhat harsh.I typically do not remove my hands from the steering wheel.However, if I drive on an A road, it will rapidly conform to the camber, however there is no discernible pull while my hands are on the wheel. On level motorways, the duration would be significantly extended. Gravity is insurmountable; any object in motion will inherently seek the route of least resistance (the slope) unless one exerts a modest upward steering force to counteract this tendency.

It is unfortunate that the camber issue has dissuaded you from the vehicle.I have operated several 204 models and have not experienced anything beyond the typical camber drift observed when releasing the steering wheel, which is common in most vehicles. I concur with your assessment of the engine; even in my heavier 212, it possesses ample power. The 540 Nm of torque at 1600-2400 rpm rivals that of significantly more powerful vehicles, and it is torque that is perceptible when accelerating, rather than horsepower. My vehicle has accumulated 100,000 miles. It produces an appealing sound when accelerated! I achieve marginally superior miles per gallon on the freeway (measured)...perhaps I own a lighter foot...or possibly the gearing on the E differs.

https://www.carandclassic.com/car/C1963173

The optimal season to consider a convertible, as opposed to Easter. Evaluate Investing somewhat more in a well-maintained, fully functional example devoid of rust, as opposed to opting for a less expensive option requiring over £1,000 in repairs, servicing, brakes, tires, suspension, etc. Within one to two years, you would achieve a break-even point. The SLK will be the less pragmatic yet more enjoyable choice, having owned and now owning both. A V6 is appealing, but a four-cylinder engine serves as a sufficient entry-level option; nonetheless, both options are not economical in terms of operation and taxation. Regrettably, I must assert that an MX5, provided it is free from rust, ought to be included in your list of potential purchases. The burgundy SLK appears aesthetically pleasing. Pragmatic wheels for our thoroughfares. However, while you may experience diminished possibility for regret, your initial budget may need to be augmented. Although there are options with greater distance to consider Enhance advertisements to facilitate improved commentary on the forum. Only a singular thought. The R171 SLKs lack spaciousness for taller individuals, such as yourself or your spouse, however this is typical for most two-seaters. Additionally, it is advisable to avoid the diesel variant.

Simultaneous oversteer and understeer? Is it not more accurately described as moving laterally?

I will send images tomorrow morning. The rear is now lowered; however, they cannot level it with the front due to the absence of the front lowering links, which prevents calibration. One side of the front is elevated compared to the other, and I am uncertain of the reason, since HR springs are placed at the front. During my last experience, I transitioned from comfort mode to sport mode, resulting in the rear suspension losing its reduced characteristics, which I was unable to restore, prompting me to return to the shop. They lowered it again but indicated that it would not remain in that position.

I saw them; the only difficulty is that it requires a 40-minute journey. However, I believe it would be prudent to avoid engaging with this triviality.

I need to do more study; also, I have already acquired and installed the links.

Indeed, it is a valid observation; I am now in Bristol.

Indeed, I purchased the item, and it is already fitted; nevertheless, it has not been lowered.

Precisely what I anticipated, and are they only for the rear? I now have adjustable lowering links fitted at the rear.

Coils in the front, air suspension in the rear. They mentioned the need of levelling the headlamps, but encountered difficulties in lowering the automobile. They said that they cannot correctly lower both the front and rear without additionally adjusting the front lowering links. I see that they lack a comprehensive understanding of the process. Is it not really a plug-and-play situation where the vehicle autonomously adjusts for the decrease without requiring any coding? Consequently, individuals like them due to their simplicity compared to Renntech's lowering module.

I just acquired a 2012 CLS 63 and immediately want to lower it. Consequently, I conducted research and found that the consensus was to need HR front springs and rear adjustable lowering links. I ordered two items and took them to my local store for installation. They fitted them but informed me that lowering was not possible without front lowering links, something I had not seen in my research. They claim it requires hours of calibration, although all the videos I have seen on YouTube suggest it is plug-and-play. Are they attempting to extort me, or am I erroneous in my assessment, or does it differ across certain models? Any assistance would be highly appreciated prior to incurring any expenses on this matter.

I have previously installed Bilstein springs and shock absorbers; they are an OEM supplier. However, as Olly and Kenny have indicated, the springs originally installed on your vehicle are customized for your specific car, considering the equipment that is either present or absent. This is why dealers reference the springs using the VIN. Historically, a 'points' system was employed to aggregate various options, assigning specific point values to equipment installed in vehicles, which subsequently determined the appropriate spring specifications. New, original springs are marked with colored paint to indicate their distinct spring rates tailored for individual automobiles. Aftermarket springs, such as those from Bilstein and similar brands, are generic replacements that match the quality of original components; nevertheless, they do not accommodate the many choices installed in different vehicles. To some extent, you can fine-tune the vehicle by utilizing various spring pads of differing thicknesses, denoted by the number of 'bumps' on their edges. However, this adjustment will only influence the static height of the car when stationary. While aftermarket springs can achieve the same height, differing spring rates may alter the vehicle's behavior under dynamic conditions; specifically, the new springs may exhibit greater or lesser stiffness compared to the originals, resulting in varying deflection under load. Additionally, the spring rates may not be linear, as extensive engineering can be applied to allow for comfort during minor deflections, while increased compression may lead to heightened stiffness. Certain springs are specifically engineered, and typically are, to be utilized in conjunction with compatible adjustable shock absorbers; therefore, instead of merely replacing a damaged spring, it is preferable to consider a complete set of springs, spring pads, and shock absorbers to maintain uniform spring performance on both sides of the axle and ensure optimal functionality of the vehicle. The use of distinct springs on the same axle may provide significant risks, since they might respond differently under strong braking or while turning in various directions. I cannot provide additional guidance; however, if you choose to pursue this option, consult the manufacturers' websites. Previously, I have installed aftermarket springs and shock absorbers on several of my vehicles, but I was replacing an entire set of old, corroded springs and worn shock absorbers, rather than merely a single broken spring. I was only replacing old components with new ones, not attempting to lower the vehicle or anything of that kind. While examining Bilstein, their website offers much information; nevertheless, you will be installing generic springs instead of custom ones specifically designed for your vehicle. It is recommended to install compatible shock absorbers that are intended to function in combination with your springs. Others may provide more guidance beyond my capacity. As previously mentioned, considering your statement that the two springs (or possibly just the one on the opposite side) on your vehicle were replaced approximately a year ago (regardless of whether they are front or rear, the same principle applies), and assuming they were authentic M-B springs procured from a dealer specifically for your vehicle; if one spring has failed for any reason (which can occur) and you are confident that the other spring is in perfect condition, you may be able to order just a single spring from the dealer using your VIN. I would refrain from installing an aftermarket spring on one side while retaining the original spring on the other side. Upon reviewing your message, it seems that you changed one spring last year, and now the other has malfunctioned. If such is the case, I would return to the same dealer to get an identical spring, matching the one installed last year.

https://www.mercedes-benz.co.uk/passengercars/services/recall.html

It may be sporadic until it becomes consistently operational, I suppose. Utilize new AdBlue if the existing supply is older than about 12 months.

I assume you are referring to the NOX sensor.

If I get this accurately, the tire unit lacks awareness of its location; instead, the ECU determines it based on the signal's reaction time. In such scenario, exchanging wheels laterally and longitudinally should have no effect. I had not previously considered this, since all my automobiles prior to the BMW used ABS sensors to monitor the rolling radius for tire pressure discrepancies.

Clearly, the vehicle is aware of the positions of its wheels, such as front right and rear left; but, do the wheel sensors possess the intelligence to recognize this and retain that information? Do they not just report pressures, regardless of their location?

The reflectors/projectors are likely incapable of accurately focussing the beam pattern. The illumination differs between the two bulb kinds. As already said. Technically, the conversion you have executed is not legally valid.

I have observed damage to the loom. Previously, the vehicle exhibited severe roughness, and the auto electrician identified damage to one of the injector feeds. I will call him tomorrow and persuade him to come out. I appreciate your counsel.

I have encountered that issue previously, but I cannot identify any apparent cause.

The fob battery has had its protective film removed; I am already aware of this, can you surmise how? The main battery and auxiliary battery both exhibit a satisfactory 12V reading, and the fob battery has been verified at 3V. I am unable to test the primary battery under load for amperage, but that is irrelevant if I cannot start the engine. I have also inspected the fuses and relays.