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You can reach it from under the plastic wheel arch, so replacing it should be a breeze.

Which sportage model is this? A Mark 4 or a Mark 5?

It appears that the part number 92202F 1500 or 92202F 1600 is £103.53 + VAT from Kia. Without knowing which one is the right hand and which is the left, I can't fathom why they display both numbers.

Find the part number on partsouq.com by entering your vehicle's VIN.

Hello, I need a replacement unit for the fog lights on the front driver side; does anyone have the right part number? RF21VWL LED KIA IISG MHEV SPORTAGE CRDI GT-LINE S ISG I found two of them when searching 21my. Is it easy to replace, too? I am grateful.

Presumably purchased from a dealer? If that's the case, the Consumer Rights Act will pay for repairs for up to six months after the purchase, when the defect was first noticed. The validity of whatever warranty you may possess is moot. It is the dealer's responsibility to either fix it or give you your money back

I don't think the gearbox oil has been changed before, but I've just had the car since December. The oil was changed at 62,000 miles. The prior owner may have been a city driver, but I've only owned the car since December, so it's possible they were.

This is only a wild assumption on my part because the garage from whom I bought it sent it to them; however, I cannot be sure. The vehicle will be taken to a local mechanic tomorrow for another examination, but I am not anticipating positive outcomes 🙄.

Since it was sent to them by the garage from whom I purchased it, I'm taking a wild guess, but I can't be positive. Tomorrow, it will be taken to a nearby mechanic for another inspection, however I am not expecting very optimistic results 🙄.

Surprisingly, there is no database for fault codes. Was Star /Xentry the tool the specialist was utilising?

Hello everyone, I was hoping someone could lend me a hand. There have been problems with the transmission in my 2017 W176 a200d Automatic (62k miles). Several warning signals appear on the dashboard (see images) and I suddenly lose control while driving. I had to coast to the hard shoulder because it happened the other day in the fast lane of the highway. It was not fun! It can only be started by coming to a complete stop, shifting into park, and then back into drive. At any speed and in any driving mode, this is possible. There is no engine management light and no fault codes are kept. A Merc specialist checked the software for updates, changed the oil in the gearbox, and attempted to read any problem codes (none were stored). Even with the oil change, it's still happening, so I'm scared to drive it because I have no idea when it will happen again. I would much appreciate any assistance.

The red and green indicators are almost in line, but they are never perfectly aligned; more recently, the vehicle has been leaning to the right while the left side is somewhat lowered. There is a slight tilt to the left side. As an alternative, it can be the other way around or have the back overly elevated. The highway icon is missing from the dial; I thought I had it. It does seem to be on the diagnosis tablet, which is confusing me.

OK. If your dual-mode shock absorbers are linked incorrectly or damaged, they will automatically switch to the hard Dynamic mode, which is represented by the highway icon. Perhaps that is the cause of the severe suspension, thus it's something you should investigate. You might want to check the alignment of your wheel level sensors in case that's the root of your levelling issues. When the vehicle is almost level, what does the 4x4 onto screen show? The four little red lights that each wheel on the screen displays. Where do they stand?

To begin with, I apologise for the delay in responding. It is a 2007 model, and it does feature the highway emblem, if that is the dynamic mode you are referring to.

Which year model are you referring to? Could you please confirm if the Terrain Response dial has the Dynamic mode?

Excuse me, Since we disassembled the automobile, I've been dealing with this issue. Prior to it, the vehicle drove flawlessly straight and true, without any balancing problems whatsoever. The U0155-87 error code was the most prominent of many issues that surfaced following the split. Once we were able to rebalance the car, the inaccuracy went away, but it's still not entirely level. The right side of the back of the vehicle is elevated above the remainder of the vehicle, and the back of the vehicle appears lifted in comparison to the front. There is a constant whistling sound when I'm travelling at high speeds. The ride is fairly harsh, and the back end is incredibly springy. From time to time, I'll notice that the automobile is sitting with one side entirely raised and the other side totally dropped. My previous attempts: Depleting the air reservoir. Compressor replacement. Struggling to adjust the level (very difficult right now) I would be eternally grateful for any insight you can provide as to the nature of the issue, its probable origins, or your own personal experience with a comparable situation. Fixing this has been an absolute nightmare. Much obliged.

Same as before, base your purchase of a used car on how good you think it is, even if it is 20 years old. Transmission type shouldn't be your main concern. One vehicle may be in excellent enough shape to be considered a "keeper" while the other may be more suited for "parts" even though they are both the same age and specifications.

Just as when you buy a car, there are other conditions. There might be a lot of problems with an unused vehicle for that amount of time. Although the later 7-speed isn't unreliable, the earlier 5-speed is famous for its extreme reliability; yet, both require proper servicing. "Excellent reviews from the service points"—what exactly does that mean?

In my area, I came across two vehicles: a 2006 WDC1648221A153764 and a 2008 WDC1648221A425361.The 2006 vehicle has been well-maintained and is utilised on a regular basis, although the second option was unavailable from 2013 until November 2025.The gearbox in the 2008 model is newer and has the number 722902 01 761122, whereas the one in the 2006 model is older and has the number 722902 00 740542.What suggestions do you have for me?The service points have nothing but praise for both vehicles.Give me a ballpark figure on the distance, please.Much obliged.

Fascinating development. Here is a little heat that I have. I was using the rear seat heater while driving, but I can't tell if the blower motor is functioning or not. I realised I was getting heat from the vents after turning it off but leaving the front running. A minuscule amount. I am uncertain if this suggests any alternative paths. In any case, I've been wanting a power probe for my classic for a while now, so I'm going to get one from the fsr just in case.

Have you connected the power? If so, where? A power probe will be ordered by me. With the pins? Or perhaps to the FSR?

Once the FSR is fully placed, it is secured to the HVAC box using a plastic clip/detent. To detach, just pull the fastening clip in the opposite direction and remove the FSR. To disconnect the electrical plug, compress the two symmetrical retention clips on the connector. To help you identify the two stronger wires that connect the outlet to the blower motor, I've included some images in this email. In case you were wondering, I "send" 12v to the blower motor during testing by using a little Lion battery with a pair of crocodile clipped wires. It makes no difference either way you connect the 12v supply to the blower motor if the plug is detached from the FSR. Connecting it in a "backwards polarity" manner will just cause it to spin in the opposite direction of original rotation.