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For some reason, I've always felt like Mazda could have used LEDs instead. Best for daytime running lights. Seems like the hole on the inside is a vent for the brakes.

I restrained myself from proposing grappling hooks just in time.

Look at you now!

Of course it is. My utter lack of modernity is a disgrace. I couldn't agree with you more. I used to be much faster when I was younger. Was a magnetic rail gun considered?

In other words, our state-of-the-art battleships would fare better against 20th Century... photon torpedoes.

Oh my, those are dunnels, sometimes known as stupid sills. It was completely unknown to me. Never bothered to check mys. What about two 5.56 semiautomatics, one of which has a trigger button on the stock?

I have already "hollowed out" the middle areas of mine, as if to suggest that something is going inside...So far, I just haven't settled on anything.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=RVgolf+Engine+Cabin+Air+Filters+Kit+Fit+for+2024-2026+Mazda+CX-90+CX90%2C+2025-2026+CX-70+CX70+Engine+Air+Filter+Set+Automotive+Accessories+Replacement+PXFV133A0+KR9P-61-J6X&ar_srct=C&linkCode

I don't believe my 2026 CX-90 S Turbo Premium has any stupid sills.

Has anyone thought about adding LED light strips, a cold air supply for the front brakes, faux aerodynamics, or anything else to the front fascia dunsel, which are the outermost black plastic parts that don't do anything useful?

Hello, according to the dealership's recommendation, my entire system requires 110 ml.

A new condenser/dryer, installation, gas and VAT would set you back about £325 if you're having the same issue with CLK. So far, the only AC maintenance that has been required is a gas top-up last year. Decent for a vehicle that is twenty-one years old.

This is what I gathered from a couple sources: Leave it to the machine; if it breaks down later, they won't have served their purpose. My 2015 C200 was just serviced, and the mechanic removed the gas and oil before doing a vacuum test and the reversal. Based on the printout, it appears that 9 grams of oil was extracted and 24 grams of oil was injected. There was a 521 g petrol leak and a 630 g petrol refill. I hope that helps. My air con post has gone unanswered, so I'm hoping this is some kind of Karma.

Twenty millilitres is typically the maximum amount to add unless you're flushing the whole system, which can take a long time.

Hello everyone I have a c-class air conditioner that sprung an oil leak at the bottom connection to the condenser. I haven't used it since then, but now that it's fixed, I have a question: how much PAG oil should I add to the system so it doesn't run on low oil and need more repairs? Could you please tell me how much oil has been lost from the system? While operating under hoover, does the regas machine remove all system oil? (The machine supposedly just takes 5 minutes to run.)10 millilitres while under vacuum, and then reintroduce it to the system (not all of the oil). No matter how many garages I've contacted, no one appears to have the answer; all you have to do is plug it into the machine. Could someone please give me some advice on this? Sending my respects

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Thank you very much.

Perhaps a defective temperature sensor. In that case, I'd have it checked for potential errors.

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Never employ a mate

When you turn on your air conditioner, the engine fan will start running. Even when turned off, does it do the job?

Thank you for looking. I have a quick question about my 2020 X3 2.0L. After turning off the engine, the fan comes on rather often (albeit not always), even on short 5-minute trips and even when the temperature is 30 degrees Celsius. Is this a normal occurrence? good luck

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I had to use three hands to get the valve body out of its housing and make sure the gear selector pin engaged with the plastic gear selector while I laid flat under the car and replaced the conductor plate, and I lost roughly 5.5 litres of gearbox fluid doing so. The specification calls for a torque of 8 Nm for the bolts that hold the body in place, which worries me because I've never thought they were tight enough. I have done some road testing, and everything seems to be in order. Now I just need to bring the gearbox to 80C (using the scan tool on the passenger seat), which takes an incredibly long time, so I can check the fluid level. Hopefully it's done, but I hope we won't have to talk too soon.

Since the aftermarket parts are only around £80 extra, I opted against ordering them and instead ordered them from the dealer. They should arrive on Tuesday. Good idea about the torque converter; I'll remove the rubber bung and take a look. I doubt it has one, though. I will let you know how it turns out.