All Activity

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/116870869553?fits=Car+Make:Mercedes-Benz&_trkparms=amclksrc=ITM&aid=1110006&algo=HOMESPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=20240415110138&meid=f7fcd442dd2441cebd1b7a3adaba7861&pid=101875&rk=4&rkt=4&sd=335543581674&itm=116870869553&pmt=1&noa=0&pg=2332490&algv=SimplAMLv11PairwiseFitmentPromotionV2WithCassiniQueryEmbRecallKatReco&brand=Trucktec+Automotive&_trksid=p2332490.c101875.m1851&itmprp=cksum:116870869553f7fcd442dd2441cebd1b7a3adaba7861|enc:AQAKAAABYCggmqi%2BjGBvS8WShKTeLW5J2g6qXnzgH61T5t8ujPfO4ZJHWSDajmSreRV%2BXNto1elxKNVVM64kNmwVgiMN2szhK0tlR1011FXMzSAB1PUgv3YfSpR1rhptekHpigLfP0ecJgwNe2pRkmfW%2B3c3dKMszZ8EBS%2BPrP%2F9xIMfOGg7iuIfw%2FFDuxCGlnZ7D3zgzTgy9DT4%2FS1LGPGydF%2BKwF9lTD7jlYVT7xPKhGqy39hGE8w8PJvaKk06XNzpIlaFQu7Pc2PhpPC%2FLZ4ZS5Fd%2BVmYjS4Sycj9rg7mxJCIClaeI9XvAYQ%2F9jfg6eilx1CW22rnBYhd%2Fz2GfmcyXT7cQwfU0jXVQdGQdI%2FRE%2Be3aRYEsbp1kEtV9d%2FFS1mpu9AQnqnAyIjyxNroh%2FB5QDBHL6s7W7WvO9VZmi0JXErPzjVzJ7m%2BmyLBAoAtkTsH5hEFQSiSXh6iA%2Bi1fIHQW%2F5uNW8%3D|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:2332490&epid=1027347547&itmmeta=01KB82JK0KBBGW9XAV4JNHE8N2&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338181125&toolid=10001&customid=2518X1570512X22d8b1553c31b0acceae4be1fe8d7448&subId2=15

I don't know what you mean, but I would check the wiring leading to the engine control unit (pilot bush). The 'o' rings are movable.

After giving the seal a thorough washing with white spirit, I proceeded to run a bead of silicon across its inside and exterior. On occasion, I would check for signs of seepage by running a white tissue beneath the turbo connect.

“Why” is the key point. Other points made thereafter, nevertheless, may provide light.

In order to get a more suitable vehicle for the family and put an end to the struggle with rust, I sold my beloved VW T3 transporter day-van. I was really surprised by the Brabus Vito's silky powertrain when I bought one up locally. Our goal is to turn this Dualiner into a camper by fixing the mechanical issues. As a positive frame of reference, working on this vehicle is an improvement over the transporter. I have initiated a thread to record the process of restoring this car. This car has practically all the typical flaws, according to my study and fiddling! Present status: 1. DPF clogged; recently had it cleaned by a professional; removed from car. 2. The compressor input seal is either leaking or split, and the plastic pipe has deteriorated; I am now awaiting new orange seals and am intrigued by a silicone repair kit, but I am unable to find a particular vito (not bat wing) type. Thirdly, there's a likely oil cooler leak; the garage may fix it. 4. Replacement kit is on its way for the PCV valve diaphragm that split. 5. We have not fully determined the cause of the leak from the trans oil cooler line. 6. New PCV heater plug ordered by the garage due to a broken one. Repairs made using epoxy putty and new facia and vents purchased from Amazon were necessary to mend the broken flaps on the cabin heater and the collapsed button panels. 8. I'm waiting to install a new tie rod at both ends, as well as ard bushes and a new tie rod for the front axle, which is knocking. It's likely an inner tie rod. 9. During the second part of the warmup, there was white smoke (or blue, it was impossible to tell) that persisted even after I disconnected the PCV; this is my main concern right now. It's possible that the PCV left some oil in the intercooler or elsewhere. 10. The oil has coated the swirl flap motor. However, I believe it is effective. 11. I'll have a garage take care of the seized glow plug and the oil cooler simultaneously. My current enquiries are: Is it possible to use the silicone repair kits made for Mercedes turbo inlets with the airbox design of the Vito and Sprinter with a single filter? What else may be causing the white smoke behaviour? Is there anything else I need to check for? After I patch the known leaks, I'm considering adding a UV dye to the engine oil to see if the oil cooler is leaking. Can somebody tell me where I can find this? Is there a way to take the turbo off a Vito? Back there, it's rather crowded! Did I anticipate how tough it would be to drop the engine? Thank you, everyone

If it runs for a few seconds on brake cleaner or easy start, then fuel hunger is the problem. It was only a notion.

I will get it back up and running in a few days, examine the live data, and see if any more codes pop up; I think I eliminated some of them.

It may be due to insufficient battery power if there is no CAN-bus.

A low fuel pressure signal could be shown if the saddle tank's lift pump fails.

I'm a bit worried about this 330d 184hp car since it won't start. With the ignition on, I can hear a loud buzzing sound coming from the fuel pump under the hood, and I can see petrol running to the Hffp. Someone has torn out the glove box and opened the fuse box, and there's another one under the hood. The person from whom I got it said that it may be the ecu, but I'm not sure. My codes range from 1260 to 1E00. Thanks in advance for any guidance you may provide!

Yes, it's possible that leasing is less expensive now. Lower initial investment and greater ongoing payments with no depreciation or ultimate payment to consider. Leasing seems like the better choice when you add up all the costs of each option.

If you aren't planning to retain the automobile for an extended period of time, I recommend checking into the "lease option'. In many cases, the lease option appears more appealing as compared to PCP when one simply looks at the whole cost. Leasing becomes an even more attractive alternative when you consider the unpredictable used-car pricing of electric vehicles, which are affected by the fast development of technology.

I want to thank everyone. Came up with a fresh idea: a GT line in black. Have just made an order

https://www.kia.com/uk/used-cars/

The warranty is extended to a full seven years from the date of purchase if it is a "Kia Approved Used" vehicle that is less than twenty months old and has less than 20,000 miles on it.

You still have six more years of coverage on a vehicle that is only a year old, thanks to the seven-year warranty. When it comes to the ICCU problem, it might happen in a used automobile or a brand new one. Bring it up, and have the dealer clarify in writing that a car will be available in the event that such an issue arises; otherwise, you will be unable to drive while it is being repaired. It has been a pleasure to own a Kia E-Niro, which is over six years old; the only problem was a charging flap problem, but it was resolved within a day thanks to the guarantee. Is it safer to take a chance on an unknown purchase—new or used—or hold on to my 2020 E-Niro? Today, it seems like everything is up in the air. These days, anxiety appears to affect the entire country.Buying a used automobile won't kill you, and you can save a tonne of money compared to newer models.

Thank you!

I believe the 7-year Kia warranty may be transferred to a new owner, so even if you buy a used approved car, you'll still be protected for any ICCU concerns for the rest of the warranty. Just be sure to check with the dealer about the specifics of the warranty coverage. Additionally, I would assume that a certified Kia dealer would have the ability to view the whole record of maintenance for any car.

Greetings everyone; I'm hoping to purchase a Kia EV3, but I can't make up my mind between buying it new or getting an authorised used one from a dealership. Since this will be my first electric vehicle, I'm a little anxious about selling my Skoda Kamiq and making the transition. Currently, Kia is providing a reasonable offer of a £3,000 down contribution and a loan rate of 3.9%. But I'm also seeing certified pre-owned vehicles with really low mileage (some with less than 1,000 miles and less than a year old), so I'm starting to wonder if it may be the better choice. I am particularly worried about the ICCU problem and the possibility of getting a "lemon." After reading about charging failures and several ICCU replacements, I can't help but wonder: how probable is it that I would purchase an authorised used vehicle whose previous owner sold it because of persistent issues? When I do depart, I will: In particular, what am I supposed to be on the lookout for? Could you tell me how to find out if the ICCU has been changed or if the vehicle has experienced maintenance issues frequently? Are the dealers able to provide you the whole history of the car's repairs and warranty? As a whole, I'd be very grateful for any recommendations you have for someone making the switch from internal combustion engine to electric vehicle (and deciding between new and almost new). Thank you ahead of time!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=eibach&campid=5338181132&customid=2518X1570512X8e6a65b123a12d4bd06dd0a6113b1046&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&subId2=15&toolid=10001

Thanks to Eibach, I'm satisfied.

Hiring H&R is a good choice. Mine was a W218 CLS63 AMG. For sizes of all kinds, they're Tüv-approved. Additionally, the G55 Gwagen had them. Expensive, but of exceptional quality.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=eibach&campid=5338181132&customid=2518X1570512X0aa553f1b0866f49ac8933bb0e4ee70b&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&subId2=15&toolid=10001

Unused on the shelf are a couple of Eibach spacers designed for Mercedes. The actual size and fit are slipping my mind. What are they? I'll have to check tomorrow.

I want to get them so they're flush with the arch tops since they do. Not a fan of the "sucked in" wheel appearance, but at the same time, I'd rather not have anything contact the road during rapid bends. So, even if I've noticed 20 mm in the back, it's still too tight. As long as they are 15 mm or less, my insurance won't mind spacers, too. Those are, in fact, AMG IV wheels with dual six-spoke covers.