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Affirmative, negative, uncertain. I have recently traversed this route, as the surrounding roads are in bad condition. The 19-inch rims result in a harsh ride, and the M-Sport specifications are prone to cracking, leading to air leaks and error codes. The tyre expert is correct in asserting that installing larger tyres on current rims disrupts telemetry and may affect insurance, suspension clearance, and other factors. Transitioning from run-flat tires (RFT) to conventional tires will yield a more supple ride. They are less expensive, more readily available, and repairable; however, it is prudent to seek a space-saver or an additional full-size rim for an onboard spare. RFT may perform adequately on smooth, clean roads, but becomes ineffective when driven on flat surfaces. In my experience, you can seal them if you identify the leak first, but not after they have been flattened and driven on. Yes, you may go for 16" tires, since they will offer the maximum sidewall height, providing greater rubber contact between the road and rim, resulting in a more comfortable ride. You will significantly notice the improvement in ride quality. While you may observe a reduction in handling, based on my experience, the existing speed restriction and the absence of a Nuremberg track nearby render this mostly unimportant, especially considering that vehicles once exceeded 200 km/h on that circuit with 60-70 sidewall tires. I replaced the staggered 19" run-flat M-Sport tires on my E93 with a $400 square set of 17" tires obtained from the wreckers. During my visit, I acquired a space saver from an E60, a compact scissor jack, and many normal wheel nuts to replace the locking nuts. I assumed that all BMWs utilise the same locking nut; nevertheless, the perpetrators may possess the key, making it still another trivial item to standardise in case of loss. My primary challenge was locating a pair of 17" rims that I favoured, which also had an appropriate offset (ET) compatible with the vehicle. The 5x120 bolt pattern is prevalent among most BMW models manufactured post-2005, I believe. Numerous individuals designate 18" as the optimal size; nevertheless, in my opinion, it only provided an additional 15mm of rubber in wall height. 16 inches; I had not encountered a set until the 17 inches were installed on the vehicle, but for a 1992 model, they may appear somewhat diminutive. It is fundamentally a matter of personal preference. I transitioned from 225/35/19 8J-et37 and 255/30/19 9J-et39 to 235/45/17 7.5J-et37; as all tires maintained the same rolling circumference, the vehicle remains unaffected.

Greetings everyone, I apologise if this inquiry seems trivial; but, I am entirely inexperienced in this matter. I possess an E92 320D Coupe equipped with 18-inch staggered wheels that were included with the vehicle. I dislike the jarring ride they provide, and I have been informed that installing 16-inch wheels, together with the appropriate tires to preserve the correct diameter, will significantly enhance the vehicle's ride quality. I informed my local tyre technician of my intentions, and he cautioned that it would disrupt the ABS sensors, alter the gear ratios, appear aesthetically unpleasing, and impair the vehicle's handling. Will the 16-inch wheels enhance ride quality sufficiently for me to see a difference? Should I adhere to the 18" wheels as the tyre specialist suggests, since replacing them with 16" wheels will disrupt the system? I owned an E46 320ci with 16" wheels, and it was significantly more comfortable than this vehicle. Thank you in advance for your responses.

I consistently purchase the ready-to-use solution. I previously utilised the mix-with-water variant in my wife's vehicle and stored some in a litre bottle, only to discover the formation of a black sludge, likely due to the tap water employed for mixing. Consequently, I now employ the ready-mix solution in both vehicles.

I also advocate for the consistent use of the same washer fluid. I replenish the bottle prior to a service to avoid contamination from an alternative mixture. The dealer leaves a little concentration bottle in the vehicle following the service.

Technicians can complete the task in minutes, and components were not costly during my tenure at Kia; however, I would recommend cleaning them initially, as various washer fluids may coagulate when combined.

It is quite costly, and I would surely like not to replace it a second time. I would like to ascertain the prices charged by other mainstream brand dealerships for the same service in 2026, regarding the claim of being 'very costly.'

I would insert a hose into the washer reservoir to flush it thoroughly and refill it with a quality additive, consistently using the same product. Residue can be removed from the jets using a mixture of hot water and vinegar. While the jets are detached, I would also circulate clean water through the pipes to guarantee that the nozzles are also clean.

If they continue to be obstructed. Subsequently, it is essential to examine the underlying reasons. I have not experienced a single block in over ten years of owning a Kia. The primary cause of obstruction is the frequent interchange of washer fluid brands, as certain combinations do not blend effectively and result in sludge formation.

I recently updated mine on a Sorento; it was easy to remove without disassembling the scuttle, and pairs are available on Amazon for as low as £5.

Historically, washers have been covered under warranty; however, we have been informed today that this is no longer applicable, and the cost to repair one that is blocked and nonfunctional is £175. This appears excessively costly. Has anyone else encountered a comparable experience?

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The technology part of the 5 series would be optimal.

I appreciate your response. Could you kindly indicate the appropriate location to post my question so that more members would view it?

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It may be prudent to pose your inquiry in the appropriate place, as not everyone will check this area to greet others.

Recommendations for the persistent decline in engine coolant levels? The situation commenced two weeks ago without any apparent leaks beneath the vehicle.

It can only be attributed to a poor connection. When you jump-start it, are you utilising the jump point located under the hood? Inspect the ground connection as well as the one on the engine.

I become rather anxious in the absence of crack; you will be OK.

If there is no power or connection to the battery owing to corroded connections in the battery box, there will also be no output at the alternator terminal.

I will need to investigate tomorrow morning. Thank you. Do you have any insights into the zero voltage from the alternator and the method I employed for testing it?

What is the status of the transfer points? They are located in the battery compartment and are only visible when the battery is removed. If water has been present in the box, it is quite probable that they have decayed.

All wires originating from the battery and power distribution box appear to be clean and free of corrosion; however, there was a quantity of stagnant water in the battery tray, which has already been removed.

The primary electrical conduit from the battery to the engine compartment appears to have malfunctioned; remove the battery and inspect the connection points. I would speculate that it has decayed.

The title indicates that my E93 experiences a no-charge or no-crank issue, yet it may be jump-started. I conducted research on this topic and found minimal information. I have purchased a new battery, although there is still no ignition without a jump start. Attempted to install an alternative power distribution box and conducted continuity testing on what I believe to be the best option. All cabin lights and controls appear to function as indicated. I have directly checked the alternator, connecting the red wire to the red cable from the alternator and grounding the black wire. However, this method yields no voltage. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much

Page 5-89 of the user manual. The driver assistance settings are appropriately located in the cluster, thereby preserving your selection. Modify it with the buttons on the driving wheel.