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Much obliged; the technician is now disassembling the gearbox to look for those problems, and the gearbox is already out. Once the problem is identified, I will provide an update here.

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After months of trying, I have finally narrowed down this problem, but it is still with me. Make sure the fluid level is correct by using the check valve located behind the front left wheel. If you don't take care not to overfill, froth can form and lead to pressure problems. - use a multimeter to inspect the wiring connecting the gearbox to the TCM for any signs of a break. — when using a typical on-board diagnostic (OBD) device - locate the part that says "clutch voltage data" The hydraulic pressure solenoid should be around 0.53 volts when the engine is idling and should only rise when shifting into reverse or drive, among other functions. - As a precaution, the selector flashes and refuses to engage (a "lockout") if the value exceeds 0.9. £60–£100 if not get a new valve body... It's possible it's just electrical because mine only starts up every so often, with no problems whatsoever.

Your response is appreciated. The mechanic assured me that he would investigate the problem this week, so I am currently waiting for him to do so. As soon as I receive further information, I will provide an update here.

That's a really annoying problem, when the gearbox stops engaging and keeps throwing the P0936-64 code. Has your mechanic checked the gearbox fluid level and condition before lowering the sump pan? If you could share that information, maybe people in the community could determine if the problem is more mechanical or electrical in nature.

Greetings, all! My Range Rover Evoque 2.2 Diesel, which has the ZF 9HP 9-speed automatic gearbox, recently developed a gearbox problem, and I would appreciate any advice you can give me. Issue at Hand: The gearbox abruptly disengaged into Neutral two nites ago as I was travelling at approximately 80 km/h on a straight road and heard a whistling or whining noise. Initially, I disabled the engine, used the key fob to lock and unlock the car, and then restarted. After choosing option D, the error disappeared, and the vehicle drove smoothly thereafter. But the problem came back the following day. There was no way to fix the diagnostic error this time because the gearbox stayed locked. Diagnostic Results from an OBD-II Scan: The hydraulic pressure sensor (P0936-64, Permanent) has an intermittent circuit. The processor for the gearbox control module is P0613-44, and it is intermittent. Transmission control system (MIL request): P0700-00 (Intermittent) A high-speed CAN communication bus, U0001-87/U0001-86 (Intermittent) I am unable to unlock the gearbox because my scanner has marked the P0936-64 code as Permanent. My mechanic is going to lower the sump pan to check for a physical problem with fluid pressure, which could be an oil pump or torque converter issue. But since the warning indicates a hydraulic pressure sensor intermittent electrical circuit, I'm trying to figure out whether the problem lies with the mechatronic valve body/solenoids, the external 16-pin connector, oil contamination, or the internal wiring harness. Is anyone familiar with this P0936-64 code? Did you need to replace the pump and all the mechanical parts, or was the problem solved by fixing the electrical connector and wiring harness? A word of wisdom or anecdote would be great

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Embrace the future.

No🤪

Indeed, I did. Much obliged.

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The E46 330d of the chippy owner who lived nearby ran fine for over a decade on used chippy oil, but the car rusted to death.

I wouldn't put it on your car, even if it were an older diesel. I would have said it was fine before the year 2000.

My 2011 320d is in excellent running condition, but the current fuel prices are exorbitant at £2.03 per litre. I was wondering if it would be possible to power my car with a mixture of diesel and carefully filtered used vegetable oil, or if I would be inviting trouble.

Hello there!!!!! As far as I'm informed, every Mercedes is built without a Schrader valve. I serve as an example

Use caution. Unfortunately, one of our members just learned the hard way that not all Mercedes models are compatible with Schrader valves installed under the sensor. The sensor went flying out, followed by all the gas, and he felt a jolt as his fingers froze.

It is my sincere wish that ours is likewise a sensor problem. That it re-energised yours is encouraging to hear.

It seems like the pressure sensor might be malfunctioning. One is on its way to me; I just placed the order. I'm crossing my fingers that it has a Schrader valve underneath so that the refrigerant can be safely replaced.

I just had a new pressure sensor installed on my A205 C200 today. Based on my research, it appears that the air conditioning issues on C Class (and other Merc) are caused by a faulty sensor. I replaced the old one with a new one, and now it's lovely and cold.

How about a pressure switch? If you put a digital multimeter across the terminals, I have no idea what the resistance reading will be. The catch is that degassing is required to rectify that.

After it was re-gassed and still wasn't working, I was hoping this was the problem, but when I checked, the code was still active and wouldn't clear. The reading is still showing 0, so I'm making an assumption.

I experienced the problem at ATS a few years ago. No leaks detected during the nitrogen test. Damned if it weren't cool. Honestly, I don't know if there were any faults, but after I plugged in the reset codes on my iCarsoft, it started fixing the problem. Possibly a coincidence.

Hi there, Our 2019 W177 A200's air conditioner is malfunctioning at the moment. The air conditioner won't turn on. The problem persists despite a local garage having re-gassed it and checked for leaks. There is a problem with the refrigerant level being too low, according to the OBD tool. It was recently re-gassed after being checked for leaks, so I know it isn't low on gas. There is no reading of 0 for the air conditioning system pressure in the onboard diagnostic monitor. In order to avoid leaking refrigerant, I was hoping to replace the pressure sensor and was wondering if there was a Schrader valve located behind it. Much obliged.

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Hello there!