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https://www.kia.com/mu/discover-kia/ask/how-long-does-coolant-last-in-a-car.html

My estimate, including the MOT, was roughly £450. It is important to ensure that the indi includes the right sort of coolant replacement. A unique cleansing and replacement method is utilised by Kia. Think of it as a renal dialysis machine if you want a good analogy. Given the prior recall owing to crystallisation danger and the shift to a new mix, I do wonder how significant the difference is. Before I bought it in 2021, there was a recall, and then there was a change two years ago. Because of this, I believe that Kia UK is deceiving us. The service book verifies this, since it states to examine just and not make any changes.

The dealer's price of £450 is just absurd. For £300, I was able to locate an independent. Still awaiting a response from another.

To get a feel for the prices at different dealerships, check out the Kia website.

We have driven 32,000 miles in our 6-year-old E-niro. You have received a service warning. Do I need to change the battery coolant? Is anyone familiar with the estimated price for this? Would much appreciate any assistance.

The windows, steering, lighting, and gear shift are all powered by electricity. My arm, which is gripping the window winder, moves around and around in response to an electrical signal from my brain whenever I wish the windows open. As if by some enchantment, the window descends. Similarly, when I wish to park in reverse, my brain communicates with my arms. With one hand, I shift into backward while the other controls the wheel, and I park the car. My brain alerts my right arm, which then extends forward and flips the switch to the "on" position for the headlights whenever I detect that it has become dark outside. When I wish to shift gears, my brain signals my left arm, which in turn moves the gear stick. First, I'm smart, and second, I passed the driving test, so I can do all these amazing things. These high-tech vehicles equipped with computers are perfect for those who lack intelligence and have not yet completed their driver's license exam. The mechanics at the garage, alas, lack brains. Instead of utilising their limited cognitive abilities to accurately identify the issue, they blindly follow the instructions on their computer. So, the client ends up paying a hefty sum for unnecessary services.

Although it should be said that less electricity is preferable, the industry is unfortunately moving in the other direction at high rates.

Oh, I see. Buying my 1983 W123 200 is the way to go. I will not be using any electronics, adblu, DPF, warning lights, wind-up windows, LEZ fees, road tax, or MOT (though I'm sure someone on this forum will renew mine tomorrow), and my insurance is £89 a year. But the problem is that I have to sell it since the sitting position is too much for my old knees.

Since he hasn't returned since May, I highly doubt that you will receive a response.

I was wondering whether this was ever resolved. If such was the case, what did they find?

Salutations, comrades, I am a newbie here, and my 2014 ML350 Bluetec has been giving me nothing but trouble. 'Soot content in the diesel particulare filter is improbable,' error code 111500, first appeared in December and was reportedly triggered by the differential pressure and exhaust back pressure sensors. This was the beginning of the problems. Both sensors were swapped out without success. I replaced the DPF since it was not renewing and the fuel consumption was quite high (23 litres per hundred). All issues up to this point have been resolved; fuel usage is now stable, and the CEL is no longer an issue. A few 300 km afterwards, an additional CEL appeared, and not long after that, the infamous Adblue Remaining Starts 10 notification. You may skip the "500 km remaining" and "16 starts remaining" Adblue messages and go right to the 10 starts. I filled up the Adblue since I felt it was low, but it didn't fix the CEL. And to top it all off, the exhaust began to strongly smoke a grayish-white colour, and the automobile had an odour that was completely foreign to me—neither diesel fuel nor ammonia, as far as I could tell. Everything calmed for another 200km when the fault codes (16CE00, 16CF00) were cleared, until CEL sprang up again. Official dealer recommended updating the ECU software since Adblue wasn't talking to it correctly. That fixed the Adblue-related codes, but now I'm getting 14CF00, which means "The positive control deviation during exhaust gas recirculation control is too high," and 178200, which means "Efficiency of SCR catalytic converter." Since the DPF problems began in December, the 14CF00 code has intermittently prompted the CEL; the dealer says I must now clean the EGR valve, pipes, etc. This is great with me, and I will have it done. My biggest concern is pinpointing the source of the smoke; is it related to the EGR problem, the Adblue problem, or the just installed DPF? Both possibilities are being considered because the smoke didn't begin until after the Adblue tank was filled, and it was also soon after the DPF was replaced. The smoke appears out of nowhere on both highways and city streets, lingers for two to five minutes, and then disappears. The dealer claims, "It's just DPF regeneration," but I don't buy it because the DPF is brand new and I've never had problems like this before the Adblue problems began. If you have any advice, please let me know.

As soon as I get a new car, whether it's a front or rear-mounted one, I remove the plinth and attach the plate to the bumper using extra-strong 3m or something similar to hide the mounting screws. The removal of those unsightly plastic pieces always makes a car seem better, in my opinion. Important Notice! The front plate on my current car is held on by two screws. The tape wasn't able to adhere the hard perspex plate well enough to follow the curves of the bumper, but at least the plinths are gone!

I saw that you have a plug on your table; was that ineffective?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/gripit-self-drive-plasterboard-fixings-acetal-plastic-27mm-10-pack/384fp

https://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-duopower-wall-plugs-6mm-x-30mm-100-pack/1030p

My recommendation would be to remove the remaining fragments of the damaged insert and then secure it using a method similar to this, using adhesive or hot glue. Considering the plug's shallow depth, it's an inexpensive gamble to see whether it works.

Why not just cut a big screw or bolt in half and use it to secure the plinth to the bumper? Or use two sets of sticky strips for number plates? An sticky glob, on the other hand, or a grip filling gun Providing the plinth's front is in decent shape, of course. Your desired level of financial savings is the determining factor.

A flat place to install the plate is provided by the original plinth, which is designed to meet the bumper's curve. Personally, I'd just get the MB component and paint it to match the rest of the car. I did the same thing with mine, and it fits the car well today.

I think that Amazon item will work well for you; just place your order and make up your mind. Amazon will accept it for return if it is useless. It also looks better than that cumbersome MB thing.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/PLEXICLICK®-ORIGINAL-License-Plate-Holder/dp/B0C8YZGKV2?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=A2Q73EPPXDACI&utm_source=chatgpt.com&th=1

In your opinion, what should I do? Do I need to get a replacement plastic surround or can I just put a new number plate on the car? Would love to hear your comments on this.

The plastic casing for the license plate that fastens to the front of most cars is what I'm curious about. Due to a damaged spigot or clip, it can only be fastened securely on one side of the corner.

I removed it earlier today and realised I'll have to acquire a replacement license plate.

Hi, Somehow, yesterday I managed to bang my CLK's front end. The damage is slight, but the number plate was hit the hardest.

Also, it's great to see M80's trustworthy feedback.