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I want to get them so they're flush with the arch tops since they do. Not a fan of the "sucked in" wheel appearance, but at the same time, I'd rather not have anything contact the road during rapid bends. So, even if I've noticed 20 mm in the back, it's still too tight. As long as they are 15 mm or less, my insurance won't mind spacers, too. Those are, in fact, AMG IV wheels with dual six-spoke covers.

Do you happen to have a pair of staggered AMG Style IVs? Those wheels do sit very deep in mine, so I'll be curious to see how you fare.

for a W212 that isn't an AMG (as if that were relevant!) Therefore, a 66.6 mm center bore and 5 x 112 PCD are required. must center on the hub. My ideal order would be two 12 mm and two 15 mm thick ones, but I would be satisfied to get four 15 mm ones as well. Maybe someone has spares in the garage or took them off a car before selling it. If the price is appropriate, I'll buy it without the extended 45mm bolts, but that's my preference. The option to purchase a single pair of ones that are 12 or 15 mm thick is also available. Please send me a message with pics and the total amount, including shipping to Bognor. The condition is not critical because it will be painted before to installation. I am grateful.

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Fortunately, we were never required the additional 12-month warranty that came with our 2017 2.0l when we purchased it in 2023. "Problematic" is a strong word, but I'm willing to bet that this describes the outspoken minority who really do have issues. Never mind the silent majority who have experienced nothing but reliability; you never hear from us either.

Carefully review the DPF and Timing Chain's fine print... Timing chains are typically covered by warranties, but only if you replace them according to the manufacturer's recommended mileage change or before the first mileage change. DPF isn't always easy to understand either, since it relies on a lot of moving parts to function properly. It was the EGR valve that needed replacing, but I had DPF serious headache problems, so warranties are still a viable option. The engine has to be removed in order to reach it and fix it. Fortunately, it was covered by the warranty.

Great, I understand. Perhaps it would be best to just let it be then. Maintain a low profile and compensate myself

Yes, it's likely that you'll only find coverage if it breaks, as that's when it's failed. The problem is that if it breaks, it could ruin the engine or at least take other important parts like the camshafts, rockers, valves, and even the cylinder head. When it starts making noises, they might claim it's just normal wear and tear and not covered.

Good day. In all honesty, I don't think any of them would pay for normal wear and tear, brakes, exhaust, etc. However, you should verify that the timing chain is fully covered; typically, they only mention catastrophic failure, such as: 10,000 horsepower I regret getting my chain adjusted as a preventive measure so it wouldn't come loose. My insurance company refused to cover the $2,000 I spent on the service, even though I could have saved them $8,000

Hi Recent acquisition: 2017 ed4 se, 2.0 ingenium, 6-speed manual. I learned after buying these that they are problematic. The car is easy to drive and has a whisper-quiet engine. On 73000, simplewarranty.co.uk quoted £46/month for three years.Has anybody dealt with these?Being cautious is my main priority because I do not have an infinite budget for maintenance. They claim to address timing chains, dpf, and almost everything else, with the exception of normal wear and tear.

Much obliged for the response. This is a cabrio. While I will check each drain, I can tell you that the front main ones are clear and that the smaller ones on either side of the A pillar are clogged. Would a thin copper rod work to remove them? You can tell it's worn or not closing firmly because the OS (RHD) vertical seal between the rear and door seal is almost completely sealed, with the exception of a small opening at the top that measures roughly 10 mm in length and is open by around 1 mm. Can you tell me how to elevate the OSR carpet so I can check if the water is actually seeping in from underneath or if it was just resting there?

The source of water pooling inside a vehicle is not always obvious. First thing I would do is check the front drains, which are located right behind the bonnet hinges, to see if they are clogged. Water can seep in via the opening and end up at the back of some cars even though it doesn't seem to be wet up front. In addition, I would look under the vehicle for any damaged or missing rubber components, such as grommets or bungs used for workshop jacks, that might potentially cause damage to the floorpan or sills. After that, I was wondering if your vehicle was a cabriolet or a fixed head coupe. Are there any sunroofs on it? Should inspect sunroof drains and seals. The next set of seals are for the doors and windows, and lastly, the boot and the back light. The carpets may need to be removed, which can be a pain, and then someone should spray the car with a hose while you keep an eye on it for signs of water seepage. It may take some time to figure these things out. The bright side is that summer is almost here, and with it, a string of dry months.

Yours faithfully. Unattainable, naturally... 🙄

https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/locate?c=Mercedes-Benz

It could work for a part number. Just plug in your vin and start digging.

Yesterday, when giving our CLK a quick once-over, I noticed that the right rear footwell is damp. Since the carpet in the footwell and on either side of it is dry, it appears that water is seeping between the car's body and the interior components on either side. Unlike a Ford Focus, this Mercedes obviously doesn't have a simple method to lift the carpeting and inspect the interior for signs of excessive water damage. My primary concern is whether or if anyone has already encountered this issue and discovered a workaround. Based on my observations, the window seal at the imaginary B Pillar that is attached to the back side window is in poor shape. It is stiff and has moulded to the door glass over the last 22 years, rendering the "seal" ineffective. Water started leaking past the seal when I rinsed the side of the car with the hose, which was operating at a very low pressure, I must emphasise. Even while the roof gutter prevents water from getting in, it still doesn't seal properly at the window sills. I'm not entirely certain that this is the cause of the water in the footwell, but I would want to get it corrected nevertheless. My second question is, is it possible to replace these glass seals?

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You can reach it from under the plastic wheel arch, so replacing it should be a breeze.

Which sportage model is this? A Mark 4 or a Mark 5?

It appears that the part number 92202F 1500 or 92202F 1600 is £103.53 + VAT from Kia. Without knowing which one is the right hand and which is the left, I can't fathom why they display both numbers.

Find the part number on partsouq.com by entering your vehicle's VIN.

Hello, I need a replacement unit for the fog lights on the front driver side; does anyone have the right part number? RF21VWL LED KIA IISG MHEV SPORTAGE CRDI GT-LINE S ISG I found two of them when searching 21my. Is it easy to replace, too? I am grateful.

Presumably purchased from a dealer? If that's the case, the Consumer Rights Act will pay for repairs for up to six months after the purchase, when the defect was first noticed. The validity of whatever warranty you may possess is moot. It is the dealer's responsibility to either fix it or give you your money back