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Locking it while the car is running is possible. Did it just now? I prepared a video to show you. Excuse my disorganised living quarters. My return after a 1,000-mile road journey is imminent.

It simply returned a "failed notice" without any accompanying error message. I just found out that you can actually use the app's climate control to make the car warmer. That gets the job done, but doesn't it also heat up the petrol engine? A block heater is also not in my possession. Could that be a problem next winter?

It's going to be really chilly for your brand new CX-70 PHEV! I saw that you mentioned the app failed to start the remote at -22 C, but when I tried to start it manually, it worked perfectly. Did you get a detailed message from the app when it crashed? Other owners in colder climates may be able to offer advise if you share that information.

Hello! A week ago, we made a purchase and took delivery of a brand new 2025 Mazda CX 70 PHEV GS-L. This morning, the temperature here in the north dropped to -22 degrees Celsius, with a wind chill of -28 degrees. My Mazda app's remote start feature was ineffective when I attempted to use it. It started up OK when I went outside and turned it on. It still wouldn't enter EV mode when we got downtown. Then I usually just leave the engine running, but I just realised that you can't lock the doors while the engine is running. I am wanting to know anything there is to know about operating in chilly weather. Much obliged.

what???????????

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I went dark and acquired an EV 😎.

There is just enough space to insert the 27mm socket onto the bolt, as shown in the images below, for it to fit within the pulley. So that it would lay flat on the metal cross member directly beneath, I bevelled the end of the bar. If anyone else needs to change the crankshaft pulley but doesn't want to spend £80 on the right equipment, I thought I'd share some pictures and measurements. Half an inch thick and one and a half inches wide is the dimensions of the bar. To form the angle to rest on the cross member, the longest side is 11.5 inches and the other side is 11 inches. Surprisingly, the holes were drilled at a metal fabricators where I obtained the metal bar, but to my delight, they fit precisely. Ignore all other holes; the ones you need to drill are 3.5 and 8 centimetres from the end. To avoid protruding, the M8 bolts have been trimmed to fit snugly inside the pulleys' holes. Since I despise reading things that don't end, I updated this in the hopes that it would be useful.

These are essential.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=engine+pulley+lockjg+chain&client=safari&hl=en-gb&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiC47qm54zNAhXqA8AKHQXYBe4Q_AUICCgC&biw=1024&bih=648&udm=2&sei=A7sWaur2EKyvhbIPvIqM8AE#hl=en-gb&tbm=isch&q=engine+pulley+locking+chain&imgrc=2acRbQw97_MqBM%3A

Apologies for the oversight. I should have clarified that I did locate the tool; but, it can only be bought from an American vendor and will set you back £80 (not including delivery). An amusing trinket for an occasional use item... Therefore, I am attempting to construct my own tool in some way. I have been contemplating this idea all day and plan to cut two little pieces off the end of the metal rod tonight to form a triangle. Then, I will thread another bolt through the top to hopefully secure it more firmly. Upon my return, I will share a photo.

https://www.specialtyautotoolrentals.com/lander?manufacturers_id=7&osCsid=1t2o0e0ssl0j6kj84m0r2ibj91&products_id=63

One such tool exists! W112 589 00 40 00 (I've never done this, but anyone who has could have some interesting things to say about it).

Salutations everyone, I have spent days researching the problem and have bought all the essential parts, including a genuine MERC harmonic balancer and bolt, a torque wrench to tighten to 200 nm, and a 27 mm impact socket, but I still can't figure out how to lock the pulley so I can remove the 27 mm bolt. As a means of leverage, I possess two sections of scaffolding pipe. A 50 mm thick piece of steel that I had drilled four holes at the end, fastened with two long bolts, and wedged into the ground was my creation. It was working fine until it fell out. Curious if anybody has ever created their very own tool... While the YouTube video demonstrates the proper usage of an equal tee with a coupler and flange, I'm afraid that this setup will not accommodate the 27mm bolt. There doesn't appear to be a flange that can accommodate both the 27 mm bolt and fitting inside the balancer. Please, if you have any ideas, help me get this beast back on the road! Best regards

Yes, you should inspect the terminal clamps for powdery rust by removing them from the terminals after loosening them. Use a wire brush to clean as necessary. Grease the connections and secure the clamps. Whatever works, thank you. If it doesn't work, you'll need to inspect the several ground/earth connections. Make sure there is no corrosion or looseness. If everything checks out, it may serve as the launch pad. If it's the starter, there's little need in spending time on the other tasks; they're part of routine maintenance nonetheless.

The battery is probably at blame if the connections to the ground and the battery are fine.

A broken starting solenoid might be the cause of the clicking and inability to turn over.

The body/engine relationship is negative.

Salutations everyone, The title accurately describes what happened tonight: the car wouldn't start, and there was a rapid clicking sound before the dashboard turned off. Suddenly, it began, and I wondered whether I was an exception. Afterwards, it repeated the process three or four times on my way back until it finally started. After checking the connections beneath the hood, I can say that the battery is okay. You probably guessed correctly; I returned to try recording it again, and it began without a hitch, haha! There doesn't seem to be enough power to start, thus I'm beginning to suspect the battery. What else should I look for? Or possible wrongdoers? TIA

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Here are a few pictures of the car; it is rather lovely. You can't refute the smooth ride, low center of gravity, and rapid cornering abilities—I still like my ML63, haha.

If you plan on keeping the car, I recommend removing and cleaning the intake manifolds, replacing the motor and swirl flap arms and getting the oil cooler seals done. A new turbo and actuator are likely next on the agenda. Once the turbo is removed, the manifolds may be removed in half the time. My best wishes.

Sure thing: - The EGR was dirty, but not completely clogged. I cleaned it anyhow and checked to see if it had any mobility. It does, and after I replaced it, it still didn't help. Even though someone else has previously modified the resistors, I decided to replace it because the connector looked a little oily and because I have 5w rated 4.7kohm resistors. I also taped it with high temperature silicone tape just in case. Regrettably, the issues remain; I am experiencing fuel cut incidents at random with the code 2616-02 and no EML during power outages. Does anyone have any suggestions on whether the actuator needs additional testing or if it should just be replaced?

My friend, Approximately six years ago, when my rear Sam was water damaged and I was scrambling to fix it because the Mrs was about to deliver birth any minute, you offered to assist me out; I hope you're doing well now. I believe that the Mercedes parts team ultimately demonstrated empathy and may have coded it because it was strangely described as "been taken out of its packaging but brand new and put back on the shelf" and didn't require any coding. Thank you, but I'm getting off topic. I'm waiting for the 4.7k ohm resistors to arrive from Amazon, and if they do, we'll move on to EGR instead of tinkering with the actuator. Over the past six years in the ML, I've managed to get by with an average of 12mpg, but as I was writing this, it hit me: the only time I look for an economy car is when something urgent demands it.