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Greetings, everybody, I am a newbie here, and my 2014 ML350 Bluetec has been giving me nothing but trouble. A fault code 111500, which reads "Soot content in the diesel particulare filter is implausible," came up in December, apparently prompted by the differential pressure and exhaust back pressure sensors, and that was the first warning light to come on. Switched out both sensors without success. The gasoline usage was skyrocketing (23 litres per hundred) and the DPF wasn't regenerating, so I had to install a new one. So far, this has been the solution to all problems; fuel consumption has even out, and the CEL has disappeared. Another CEL appeared just 300 miles later, and the dreaded Adblue Remaining Starts 10 warning followed shortly thereafter. You can skip the "500 km remaining" and "16 starts remaining" Adblue messages and go right to the 10 starts. I filled up the Adblue because I felt it was low, but that didn't fix the CEL. Beyond that, I saw that the car's exhaust began to emit a heavy grayish-white smoke and had an odour that was completely foreign to me—neither diesel fuel nor ammonia, as far as I could tell. Once the problem codes (16CE00, 16CF00) were cleared, everything settled down for around 200km before CEL popped up again. The official dealer suggested updating the ECU software because the Adblue system wasn't talking to it correctly. That fixed the Adblue-related codes, but now I'm having trouble with 14CF00, which means 'The positive control deviation during exhaust gas recirculation control is too high,' and 178200, because of the SCR catalytic converter's efficiency. Since the DPF problems began in December, the 14CF00 code has intermittently prompted the CEL; the dealer says I must now clean the EGR valve, pipes, etc. This is great with me, and I will have it done. My biggest concern is pinpointing the source of the smoke; is it related to the EGR problem, the Adblue problem, or the just installed DPF? Both possibilities are being considered because the smoke didn't begin until after the Adblue tank was filled, and it was also soon after the DPF was replaced. The smoke appears out of nowhere on highways and in cities, stays for two to five minutes, and then goes away. The dealer claims, "It's just DPF regeneration," but I don't buy it because the DPF is brand new and I've never had problems like this before the Adblue problems began. I could really need some advice.

Amazing worth. Fantastic!

Salutations everyone, Your advice, recommendations, and words of encouragement have been invaluable. Even though I followed the specified procedure for monitoring the level, the fluid was barely visible on the dipstick, so I may have narrowly avoided disaster. After adding 300 millilitres, I removed it, and the auto shifting became much faster; the initial problem did not return. Once again, I am grateful!

A complete flush kit that I bought from Mercedes on eBay recently freed my C220 from being mired in second gear and rendering the vehicle useless. All new parts, including seals, plug, contact plate, and 5 litres of genuine ATF, came to around £75. Since my garage took care of the flush, everything has been great. I would suggest trying it out with a smaller sum first.

https://mercedesgenuineparts.co.uk/products/a2035400253-pilot-bushing

The electrical socket that protrudes from the side of the transmission—also known as a Pilot bush—is a popular location for leaks to occur. Just one bolt and a wire connector that I can recall. They are affordable replacements. Verify that the gearbox oil is not wicking up along the wires that link to the TCU. Transmission fluid levels should be checked at 85 degrees Celsius.

Your reasoning is sound. 🙂 Until I went searching, I didn't see the leak because it isn't bad. It seems like MB 236.14 is the gearbox fluid I require, therefore I'm looking into it right now.

A creeping mission! There will be a complete fluid change and the cost that goes along with it. You should rethink the first idea if the leak isn't severe and if you don't have a lot of emotional investment in the car. Simply add more and watch the results unfold. Note that the initial fluid loss could be substantial if the fluid is draining or leaking to the level of the leak. If you had half a litre of fluid and a plastic funnel, you'd be able to tell which way to jump.

Where is the missing oil? That's the query that came to mind. I guess it depends on how bad the leak is if it needs fixing.

That isn't the hard part. Instructions will accompany any info that deals with checking the level - handbook?

Thanks for getting back to me. I just realised that in order to check the level, I need to follow the specified order. On top of that, I've seen a tiny leakage on the ground. It seems like it might be coming from about the area where I assume the gearbox is. I need to obtain a quote because my skills aren't adequate to the task of emptying the present fluid.

There are two advantages if a drain plug is available. Before you add new oil, remove the old, worn-out fluid. Then, use the torque converter volume as a reference to determine the fill quantity. But that's only true if the drain is plugged in.

So, you're not "big on skills," huh? Is it possible to remove the current fluid using the drain plug? Just because...

There is typically a predetermined order to inspect the levels in an automatic gearbox, such as checking the temperature and manually shifting gears. If you know someone who is experienced with this model, they can provide advice.

Salutations everyone, My trusty 2002 Citroën C220 CDi Sports Coupe automatic has seen more than 280K miles, even though I put just about 4,000 miles on it annually these days. Thanks to your assistance, the vehicle has been dependable and has had a low operating cost. It wasn't long ago that the engine would rev under light to moderate load with only partially engaged gears before re-engaging. Despite pushing the dipstick all the way down, I can't see any fluid on the end of the aftermarket one I used to check the gearbox fluid level, and no warning warnings have shown up either. Evidently, there is gearbox fluid in there, but I must replenish it immediately. My intention is to add 200 ml at a time and then wait to see how it looks before adding more. I don't know how to tell if there's enough because my dipstick doesn't have any levels on it. How many centimetres (or inches) from the dipstick's tip would be sufficient? I would really appreciate any prompt guidance. Even though I'm not usually one to brag about my abilities, I've dropped everything to focus on this because it appears to be incredibly fundamental. PS. The gearbox fluid has been changed at least once, but considering the car's age, it would likely be too expensive to do it again. Tks

Good day, Both the EODB Facile and BimmerLink apps, which I'm using with the vLinker BM, indicate a -degree reading, though with somewhat different readings. But, the vehicle is operating without any problems. In addition to replacing the timing chain, the mechanic also changed the gearbox oil, installed a new flexi pipe and performed a thorough service at my request while the engine was out. In my opinion, the diesel consumption is somewhat greater now than before.

The scanner you're using is... Strange temperature values are being reported by multiple sensors, not just one. It is recommended to check the resistance of each component when the engine is cold before making any replacements. Additionally, it's possible that the scanner you're using is providing inaccurate results.

Hello everyone The sensor is also giving me trouble. The mechanic at the repair shop where I took the vehicle assured me everything was fine, yet the temperature readings on my scanner are off.I guess it's defective and needs to be changed. reviewed the images captured by the scanner. Is there anyone who could lend a hand? maybe you could tell me which sensor it is and where to find it so I can get a new one? Many thanks

To my star partner, I am eternally grateful.

Either the sensor has gone defective or there is a problem with the cabling back to the ECU, since it is the one in the first picture, which is after the EGR.

y, I'd greatly appreciate it if you could take a look at the three images I've attached. Are you aware which of the three exhaust gas temperature sensors is responsible for the [260100 Error]? Please tell me which one it is. Thank you, my friend.

I think it's the one in the intake just after the EGR cooler because the ones in the DPF provide different descriptions, according to the code. To check if the code changes, disconnect the diagnostic cable that comes after the egr.

To the folks who own BMWs, My ride is a BMW 520D F10 Saloon from 2010. It has been a very dependable vehicle for the eight years that I have owned it. This is the error message I received when I checked the car's code recently: The Exhaust-Gas Temperature Sensor After the EGR Cooler Is Signalling an Open or Short Circuit to B+, Representing Error Code 260100 When it comes to automobiles, I lack technical expertise. I would be eternally grateful if someone in the community could shed any light on this matter for me. Can you tell me which sensor this issue is pointing to? How do I locate it? There are a few YouTube posts that mention sensors, but they all seem to be different. The problem persists despite my replacement of the part located on the right side of the EGR cooler (part number: 1362 094142 02 / 7804177-02) in the front of the bay. It is said to be the one on the left side, underneath the engine bay, just next to the exhaust/DPF. Rumour has it that it's located behind the exhaust. Give me your thoughts on this, if you don't mind. In anticipation, I'm really appreciative of your support.

😇

The NS has completely rusted through, therefore I will schedule an inspection. Thank you.