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Because most people don't give a hoot about automobiles or driving, they'll probably just think of a tyre as a tyre. Since most people seem to go through their tires pretty quickly, if they had to choose between spending £100 and £300 on a legal tyre, they would probably choose the cheaper one.

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_nkw=tyres+fitted&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338181132&toolid=10001&customid=2518X1570512Xf06b21fb62a15646c606ca99b8686e8e&subId2=15

What brands were these? The dealer margins don't seem very generous. The vehicle will be certified as having tyres that meet UK standards.

A new Mercedes E400d All-Terrain or GLE would be perfect for me. Two of them at the major dealers have tires I've never heard of; this makes me think they're trying to cut corners, which is something I strongly dislike. You should expect nothing less than a name-brand tyre from them. quite bothersome.

It might be time to rebuild or refurbish, but I'm no expert on auto boxes.

It was all authentic ZF oil and filters that I provided, so yeah, dude.

The engine is very similar to one I had two years ago. Warmed up a little better, but a box service including real oil and a filter pan fixed it. Is the oil in the box real? Just curious.

Remind me of my name, I have noticed a vibration when the car is in drive, but it goes away when I shift into park or neutral or reverse. I am currently driving around 80 miles per day in the car. There have been 125,000 miles so far. Typically, the car is serviced every 6,000 to 7,000 miles, though this can vary in the winter. It was at 113k that the last gearbox service was performed. At the moment, the brake pads require attention, but it is uncertain whether that will impact this problem. You have my gratitude.

I have to confess that I prefer the "pseudo gear lever" on my previous Outlander—which was used to shift into Drive or Reverse—to the rotary dial on my MG4. Surprisingly, it's not easy to put the MG4 into Neutral without accidentally shifting into reverse.

I was under the impression that off-road-focused electric vehicles would feature a gearshift for shifting between driving modes, such as hill descent, crawl, locking out the (perhaps virtual) differential, and others. Naturally, in addition to park and reverse. I am unsure of the location of those controls on Land Rover's BEV.

While Mercedes has eliminated the start button in favour of an automatic second gear that kicks in at higher speeds, all you have to do to get going is flick the stalk while pressing down on the brake pedal. The paddles are still used to set the regen, but once a level is set, it remains even after the car is turned off.

For the time being, I will stalk you while you are behind the wheel. Besides that, I would be completely turned off. A column-mounted "gear" stick is standard on the new Suzuki eSky, but it's clearly an unnecessary holdover from the kei gasoline vehicle. Surely even an electric four-wheel drive vehicle could have a wheel-mounted button?

Not all single-speeders are the same; for example, some modern Mercedes models feature dual-speed transmissions (automatic rather than shiftable). I feel at ease using my Polestar 2 because it has a feature that resembles a gear lever, as seen on an automobile.

Amazon.co.uk : Internal Combustion Engine

An electric vehicle's PRND (park, reverse, neutral, drive) selector is required. B or levels of regeneration are two examples of the supplementary sub-modes found in many. The old Nissan e-NV200, at least, has a gear-lever control that allows you to engage PRNDB (the parking lock is linked to P mechanically, and a solenoid interlock prevents you from accidentally engaging R). Those coming from internal combustion engine (ICE) driving experiences should find the EV easier to adapt to.

Amazon.co.uk : electric vehicles

Take note of how the driver shifts gears using the gear stick in the Land Rover EV commercial (the white car getting dirty). Is my ageing brain causing me to miss something? I thought EVs were one-drive only.

Amazon.co.uk : 2009 Mini Cooper S spark plugs

Greetings, my friend After removing and cleaning the spark plugs, I must admit that they did look alright.

Looks like you might need to swap out the spark plugs. It was the plugs in my Mini Cooper that gave me the same issue.

Within the West Midlands

Could you please tell me where you are based? If you were in the Southwest, you could bring it to and he would take care of it.

To obtain some information, you would have to smoke test the engine and record its data while it is under boost, at idle, and at 3000 revs. These engines are really difficult to diagnose, even with the right equipment, and without it, you are often left with nothing more than a parts cannon.

I just got a mini clubman, and it bogs and makes a deep noise when you accelerate and idling is rough. I replaced the intake manifold and breather pipe and installed a new filter, but the engine is still not performing up to par, although it does run slightly better. Are you able to identify it?

Thank you for your response. I have consulted with our local dealer, but they have given me contradictory advice. I will try adjusting the charging percentages to see if it helps, but I suppose I should be content as long as I consistently get results above 300.