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Street Racer gets a hammering when played away from the lights, but it's entertaining! Over the past few days, I've been consistently recording 40–50mpg while driving steadily around town on the Eco level. The fact that the figures refuse to change or reset, even though there appears to be a way to do so in the trip computer settings, is really getting under my skin. I've been informed that the figures only update automatically after refuelling, but then why is there a reset option?

A "Nissan thing" seems to be at the root of the inaccurate mpg indications. My petrol gauge is currently reading 24 mpg (or it was yesterday; however, I have been on a number of brief shopping excursions recently). My claim that my gets an average of 35mpg is based on the amount I have filled up the tank over the course of several months and the miles I have driven. Since I'm no longer employed, my annual mileage is just around 5,000 miles. I like my car because it allows me to do decent runs with my caravan on the back without having to top off as often as I would ordinarily. There must be the same wind resistance because the frontal area is as vast as a big twin-axle caravan, even though it isn't a particularly large caravan. Just keep track of your gasoline consumption and mileage; I doubt I would give any credence to the mpg indicators. That is my profession. You are likely getting more miles per gallon than you realise if you are relying solely on the gauge.

In city driving, my 2025 T33 Epower gets about 40mpg on average. The epower button is constantly in my arsenal. Regeneration during coasting and braking improves fuel economy, although it takes some getting accustomed to.

yesterday's trip was really brief. It appears that I am presented with three consumption statistics; nonetheless, it is encouraging to note that one of them has made a small inroad into the "thirties" range! These contradictory numbers continue to disappoint me, and I still don't understand why they're there. However, I've only covered 500 miles so far, so I'm hoping things will get better from here. By the way, I discovered a YouTube video that demonstrated how to eliminate those annoying speed limit "bongs"—a feature that really enhances the driving experience.

I realise this doesn't add much, but I was simply expressing my astonishment that a vehicle of this recent era isn't significantly more fuel efficient than mine. It seems to be significantly less so.

Since my vehicle is an E-4orce, I am unable to offer any guidance regarding certain aspects of the MHEV. Sure, it's common knowledge that certain 18-year-old diesels can go around the world on a single tank of petrol, but it doesn't really address the point. All I can say is that hybrid driving does require some practice. As is often the case, urban fuel economy is poor, but this is particularly true when travelling at high speeds on highways. It doesn't seem appropriate to get 20 MPG. If you only have a 1.5-liter three-cylinder engine with variable compression, it should be able to handle well on its own. Going back to the dealer and asking them to check might be worth it, in my opinion. Due to data protection requirements, the startup splash screen is present. Remote applications (like Nissan Connect) would not function without the massive amounts of data generated by the T33 and stored in the cloud, as is the case with the majority of modern automobiles. So, it's not something you can eliminate. There is a legislative component to the speed warning as well. There is no way to permanently disable it, I'm afraid. If you are able to improve the MPG, please let us know.

Holy cow! Unsatisfactory fuel economy in the 20s! In my mind, these newer ones should be far more frugal. With mostly local journeys during this time of year, my 18-year-old T31 diesel auto gets around 35mpg on average. Also, it has travelled 144,000 miles.

After more than a week with my X Trail T33 MHEV, I have a few queries. One, I'm aware that it's a "mild hybrid" because of the little extra battery that helps the engine out. Despite my best efforts, I have been unable to locate any information regarding the battery, its status, or its function among the numerous settings. 2. It's rather bothersome to see that splash screen every time I boot up.I contacted Nissan Customer Service over this matter, and a woman working in a hectic and chaotic call center in the United States (who claimed to lack technical skills) informed me that it is not removable. Very well! 3. I finally figured out how to disable the incredibly obnoxious speed warning, but it keeps resetting itself whenever I restart. Someone on this thread mentioned a "custom menu" that makes it easy to stop them; I would greatly appreciate any assistance anyone could provide with this matter. 4. I am astounded by the poor fuel economy it appears to be exhibiting after only 350 miles of mostly city driving. Despite my deft footing behind the wheel, I am unable to improve my dismal "twenties" consumption. My deepest wish is that it will become better:(Having stated that, I feel obligated to mention that I enjoy the car's handling and performance :))

The windows, steering, headlights, and gear shift are all powered by electricity. My brain lights up my arm, which cradles the window winder, and I spin it in a circular motion whenever I want the windows rolled down. The window lowers as if by some enchantment. I do the same thing when I want to park in reverse: my brain tells my arms to do it. I park the car while one of them shifts into reverse and the other controls the wheel. When I sense that it's getting dark, my brain instructs my right arm to extend forward and flip the switch for the headlights to the "on" position. I can shift gears by just signalling with my head, which then instructs my left arm to move the gear stick. Because (a) I am intelligent and (b) I am a competent driver, I am able to achieve all these amazing things. People who haven't mastered the art of driving are the ones who should not be driving these computer-laden modern vehicles. The mechanics at the garage, alas, lack brains. Instead than employing their limited cognitive abilities to determine the source of the problem, they blindly follow the instructions on their computer. The end result is that the consumer pays a hefty sum for services that were superfluous.

Though it begs the question, the industry is unfortunately moving in the opposite direction of faster speeds, even though less electricity is better.

Oh, I see. Buying my 1983 W123 200 is the way to go. You won't find any electronics, adblu, DPF, warning lights, wind-up windows, LEZ costs, road tax, or MOT required (though I'm sure someone on this forum will renew mine tomorrow), and the annual insurance premium is £89 dollars. Unfortunately, I have to sell it because the sitting position is too much for my old knees.

I seriously doubt you will receive a response from him because he hasn't returned since May.

Did you manage to resolve this? In that case, what was the verdict?

Greetings, everybody, I am a newbie here, and my 2014 ML350 Bluetec has been giving me nothing but trouble. A fault code 111500, which reads "Soot content in the diesel particulare filter is implausible," came up in December, apparently prompted by the differential pressure and exhaust back pressure sensors, and that was the first warning light to come on. Switched out both sensors without success. The gasoline usage was skyrocketing (23 litres per hundred) and the DPF wasn't regenerating, so I had to install a new one. So far, this has been the solution to all problems; fuel consumption has even out, and the CEL has disappeared. Another CEL appeared just 300 miles later, and the dreaded Adblue Remaining Starts 10 warning followed shortly thereafter. You can skip the "500 km remaining" and "16 starts remaining" Adblue messages and go right to the 10 starts. I filled up the Adblue because I felt it was low, but that didn't fix the CEL. Beyond that, I saw that the car's exhaust began to emit a heavy grayish-white smoke and had an odour that was completely foreign to me—neither diesel fuel nor ammonia, as far as I could tell. Once the problem codes (16CE00, 16CF00) were cleared, everything settled down for around 200km before CEL popped up again. The official dealer suggested updating the ECU software because the Adblue system wasn't talking to it correctly. That fixed the Adblue-related codes, but now I'm having trouble with 14CF00, which means 'The positive control deviation during exhaust gas recirculation control is too high,' and 178200, because of the SCR catalytic converter's efficiency. Since the DPF problems began in December, the 14CF00 code has intermittently prompted the CEL; the dealer says I must now clean the EGR valve, pipes, etc. This is great with me, and I will have it done. My biggest concern is pinpointing the source of the smoke; is it related to the EGR problem, the Adblue problem, or the just installed DPF? Both possibilities are being considered because the smoke didn't begin until after the Adblue tank was filled, and it was also soon after the DPF was replaced. The smoke appears out of nowhere on highways and in cities, stays for two to five minutes, and then goes away. The dealer claims, "It's just DPF regeneration," but I don't buy it because the DPF is brand new and I've never had problems like this before the Adblue problems began. I could really need some advice.

Amazing worth. Fantastic!

Salutations everyone, Your advice, recommendations, and words of encouragement have been invaluable. Even though I followed the specified procedure for monitoring the level, the fluid was barely visible on the dipstick, so I may have narrowly avoided disaster. After adding 300 millilitres, I removed it, and the auto shifting became much faster; the initial problem did not return. Once again, I am grateful!

A complete flush kit that I bought from Mercedes on eBay recently freed my C220 from being mired in second gear and rendering the vehicle useless. All new parts, including seals, plug, contact plate, and 5 litres of genuine ATF, came to around £75. Since my garage took care of the flush, everything has been great. I would suggest trying it out with a smaller sum first.

https://mercedesgenuineparts.co.uk/products/a2035400253-pilot-bushing

The electrical socket that protrudes from the side of the transmission—also known as a Pilot bush—is a popular location for leaks to occur. Just one bolt and a wire connector that I can recall. They are affordable replacements. Verify that the gearbox oil is not wicking up along the wires that link to the TCU. Transmission fluid levels should be checked at 85 degrees Celsius.

Your reasoning is sound. 🙂 Until I went searching, I didn't see the leak because it isn't bad. It seems like MB 236.14 is the gearbox fluid I require, therefore I'm looking into it right now.

A creeping mission! There will be a complete fluid change and the cost that goes along with it. You should rethink the first idea if the leak isn't severe and if you don't have a lot of emotional investment in the car. Simply add more and watch the results unfold. Note that the initial fluid loss could be substantial if the fluid is draining or leaking to the level of the leak. If you had half a litre of fluid and a plastic funnel, you'd be able to tell which way to jump.

Where is the missing oil? That's the query that came to mind. I guess it depends on how bad the leak is if it needs fixing.

That isn't the hard part. Instructions will accompany any info that deals with checking the level - handbook?

Thanks for getting back to me. I just realised that in order to check the level, I need to follow the specified order. On top of that, I've seen a tiny leakage on the ground. It seems like it might be coming from about the area where I assume the gearbox is. I need to obtain a quote because my skills aren't adequate to the task of emptying the present fluid.