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Everyone seems to be a drama queen or king. If it gets attention or clicks, it's alright. Regular folks and a lot of news outlets use ridiculous headlines about little things to bait people.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=FSD&linkCode

Because the post didn't make it crystal clear... He was misaligned. He correctly aligned it. I don't see why he painted it as a negative FSD experience.

Salutations, everyone. Is this what happens when you center the wheel in your Tesla? This is what happened when I visited a nearby tire store; here is my story: My New Tesla Attempted to Evade the Road

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If cared for properly, these will last forever; however, the later Motronic injection is the better choice due to its superior technology and dependability. Make sure the cooling system is in good working order; otherwise, the alloy head will be goosed, thus it's best to stick to the service schedule from the E30 and E34.

It would be perfect for the power figures, thank you. Up front, the BMW/Bristol had 85 horsepower. Surely the M20 was an effective engine back then? To demonstrate their smoothness, I remember seeing ads with a house of cards erected on the camera cover.

One of two Bosch injection systems—the Motronic (129 bhp) or the LE-Jetronic Fuel Injection (125 bhp)—could be powering that M20. If you need help tuning, go at BWChipTune; it involves changing the chip.

Thankfully, a replacement engine—a 2 litre 1987 BMW straight six from a 5 series—is now available for purchase in place of the original engine in a Bristol. Any feedback you have regarding the engine would be much appreciated. A high-pressure pump and a return line to the tank are likely necessities due to the fuel injection system. The transmission looks to be automatic and is likewise made by BMW. What I want to know is if the ECU (which is also apparent in the pictures) need data from the speedo because I can make out an instrument binnacle. On the other hand, does it trigger the rev counter? Additionally, I'm assuming it's fuel, but I should probably check with the seller to be sure. I take it the ECU is where you can adjust the settings, right? Lightweight and aerodynamic, the original automobile didn't require a lot of power. Also, it has drum brakes! I would be very grateful for any feedback you could provide.

Locking it while the car is running is possible. Did it just now? I prepared a video to show you. Excuse my disorganised living quarters. My return after a 1,000-mile road journey is imminent.

It simply returned a "failed notice" without any accompanying error message. I just found out that you can actually use the app's climate control to make the car warmer. That gets the job done, but doesn't it also heat up the petrol engine? A block heater is also not in my possession. Could that be a problem next winter?

It's going to be really chilly for your brand new CX-70 PHEV! I saw that you mentioned the app failed to start the remote at -22 C, but when I tried to start it manually, it worked perfectly. Did you get a detailed message from the app when it crashed? Other owners in colder climates may be able to offer advise if you share that information.

Hello! A week ago, we made a purchase and took delivery of a brand new 2025 Mazda CX 70 PHEV GS-L. This morning, the temperature here in the north dropped to -22 degrees Celsius, with a wind chill of -28 degrees. My Mazda app's remote start feature was ineffective when I attempted to use it. It started up OK when I went outside and turned it on. It still wouldn't enter EV mode when we got downtown. Then I usually just leave the engine running, but I just realised that you can't lock the doors while the engine is running. I am wanting to know anything there is to know about operating in chilly weather. Much obliged.

what???????????

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I went dark and acquired an EV 😎.

There is just enough space to insert the 27mm socket onto the bolt, as shown in the images below, for it to fit within the pulley. So that it would lay flat on the metal cross member directly beneath, I bevelled the end of the bar. If anyone else needs to change the crankshaft pulley but doesn't want to spend £80 on the right equipment, I thought I'd share some pictures and measurements. Half an inch thick and one and a half inches wide is the dimensions of the bar. To form the angle to rest on the cross member, the longest side is 11.5 inches and the other side is 11 inches. Surprisingly, the holes were drilled at a metal fabricators where I obtained the metal bar, but to my delight, they fit precisely. Ignore all other holes; the ones you need to drill are 3.5 and 8 centimetres from the end. To avoid protruding, the M8 bolts have been trimmed to fit snugly inside the pulleys' holes. Since I despise reading things that don't end, I updated this in the hopes that it would be useful.

These are essential.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=engine+pulley+lockjg+chain&client=safari&hl=en-gb&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiC47qm54zNAhXqA8AKHQXYBe4Q_AUICCgC&biw=1024&bih=648&udm=2&sei=A7sWaur2EKyvhbIPvIqM8AE#hl=en-gb&tbm=isch&q=engine+pulley+locking+chain&imgrc=2acRbQw97_MqBM%3A

Apologies for the oversight. I should have clarified that I did locate the tool; but, it can only be bought from an American vendor and will set you back £80 (not including delivery). An amusing trinket for an occasional use item... Therefore, I am attempting to construct my own tool in some way. I have been contemplating this idea all day and plan to cut two little pieces off the end of the metal rod tonight to form a triangle. Then, I will thread another bolt through the top to hopefully secure it more firmly. Upon my return, I will share a photo.

https://www.specialtyautotoolrentals.com/lander?manufacturers_id=7&osCsid=1t2o0e0ssl0j6kj84m0r2ibj91&products_id=63

One such tool exists! W112 589 00 40 00 (I've never done this, but anyone who has could have some interesting things to say about it).

Salutations everyone, I have spent days researching the problem and have bought all the essential parts, including a genuine MERC harmonic balancer and bolt, a torque wrench to tighten to 200 nm, and a 27 mm impact socket, but I still can't figure out how to lock the pulley so I can remove the 27 mm bolt. As a means of leverage, I possess two sections of scaffolding pipe. A 50 mm thick piece of steel that I had drilled four holes at the end, fastened with two long bolts, and wedged into the ground was my creation. It was working fine until it fell out. Curious if anybody has ever created their very own tool... While the YouTube video demonstrates the proper usage of an equal tee with a coupler and flange, I'm afraid that this setup will not accommodate the 27mm bolt. There doesn't appear to be a flange that can accommodate both the 27 mm bolt and fitting inside the balancer. Please, if you have any ideas, help me get this beast back on the road! Best regards