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All is normal. Mine was new in March 1937, first decreasing to the high 20s. Summer exceeded the quoted figure by 38. I have reduced my consumption to 26, but by turning off the heating and driving steadily, I can achieve 6 miles for every 2 indicated on the display. My former Mercedes achieved a consistent 50 miles per gallon in summer, but might decline to as low as 12 miles per gallon in winter.

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In EV mode, do you operate at modest speeds or fast speeds with vigorous acceleration? I have observed that operating in EV mode at modest speeds and avoiding abrupt acceleration significantly enhances range predictions, especially during winter conditions.

Reduce the temperature slightly and decrease your speed. You should, therefore, be capable of obtaining 34.

The cold is the cause. The specified range is merely an approximation as well. Utilising the trip meter may yield results that deviate from the quoted figure. The heater/climate system significantly consumes electrical energy to regulate cabin temperature in cold conditions.

My vehicle is aged, however I am achieving the same range in cooler conditions. This applies to all electric vehicles, yet it is not widely recognised that the reduction in range during winter is substantial. As temperatures rise, the elevated range will reemerge. Infrequent use of the petrol engine during winter months often results in the formation of 'mayonnaise' within the oil filler cap. I suggest monitoring it and maintaining regular cleanliness. The issue arises from condensation and insufficient engine operation to eliminate it. Particularly in winter, I advise operating the petrol engine to ensure oil circulation and generate warmth within the engine. Conversely, if the petrol engine is compelled to engage at elevated RPMs while cold, it may be detrimental to its condition. Particularly if all the oil remains in the sump. Excellent vehicles, although one must adapt to the technology and acknowledge that it is not a fully electric vehicle. I contend that the petrol engine in a hybrid vehicle should have the oil pump operating continuously, even when the engine is inactive, and that some heat should be introduced into the cooling system to ensure readiness for operation. I frequently contemplate the state of the petrol engine in plug-in hybrids that predominantly operate on electricity. These vehicles are not fully electric and should not be operated as such.

Hello, I possess a P270e hybrid vehicle. Does anyone have a problem with the mileage at 100% charge? I was informed that I would achieve 36 miles, although I am now attaining a maximum of 26 miles. Based on my prior experience with electric vehicles, I am aware that battery life diminishes in winter; nonetheless, I did not anticipate a reduction of almost 30%.

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The primary issue with my engine is the fuel injectors. Subsequent to their replacement, reset all adaptations, including the lambda settings. The optimal tool for that purpose is INPA or ISTA. Best of luck.

Pleasant. Congratulations.

Brother Acquire an OBD cable and download BMW Standard Tools to assess the injectors. The payment will be 25 euros, and you will be completely assured. BMW Tools has a user-friendly program named INPA, which can be navigated with the assistance of an AI; simply enquire for guidance. It conserved significant financial resources, time, and visits to the mechanic.

Scoundrels, I already have a ghost installed, but my location is quite safe anyway. I believe I could tolerate 1500 if I were assured it would alleviate all problems and incur no more expenses for around two years. However, I am ambivalent on whether the issue pertains to the injectors in my vehicle.

My vehicle was stolen from the driveway while the key remained inside my residence. A few E92 and E93 vehicles are parked in my vicinity in front of so-called "barber shops" operated by young men. No clientele; merely a gathering place for young men. I continue to observe those BMWs while passing by them. 🧐 I would recommend against purchasing second-hand injectors, as their condition is uncertain, and you will need to change the seal near the tip using a specialised tool. The injectors were approximately £200 at the main dealer when I replaced mine around 7 to 8 years ago; I believe they now cost over £250 apiece. Unfortunately, the injectors are one of the most expensive components of that engine. I have observed numerous individuals acquire a discount 325i/330i, just to later report on forums that they encountered a £1500 expense for a complete set of injectors.

I was uncertain about the red leather until I observed it in person. I will likely replace a bank now if it is the injectors, but I would need to acquire them second-hand. It is unreasonable to explain a payment of over $550 each injector; it is excessive. It indeed appears exceptional.

...evokes memories of my 320i E92 LCI featuring red leather. I trust you will resolve it.The N43 and N53 engines typically require a new set of the newest specification injectors unless they have been updated lately. The leaking injectors during the morning ordeal.

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Initial BMW, E92 LCI 325i equipped with the 3.0 N53 engine. Acquired at a reasonable price at auction; generally satisfactory, but experiencing a misfire and both banks operating rich. Utilised AI for the wheels, amusingly.

In comparison to glow plugs, this is among the simplest procedures for replacing components.

I am considering installing a new light plug relay. I will examine the pricing. They appear to be simple to install.

If you require a device that exceeds Peugeot's capabilities, the LAUNCH X431 PRO appears to be compatible with Peugeot. Additional factors may include issues with air intake or hoover lines allowing air ingress. In diagnostics, this would be interpreted as positive trim at idle; conversely, it should have negative fuel trim.

It may be beneficial to install a new glow plug relay to determine whether this resolves the issue. Although it will perform direct-to-consumer testing, an oscilloscope is required, particularly if you have already addressed the glow plugs; this is the next probable issue to consider.

I am experiencing cold starting difficulties and have recently replaced the glow plugs with four new NGK units. The battery is brand new. I evaluated the old ones on the bench, and just two illuminated. Two were ineffective. The engine starts more effectively after I installed the replacement components; yet, it remains hesitant and necessitated prolonged cranking this morning at 6°C. I wish to identify the issue utilising a scanning tool; however, which one is assured to be compatible with my year and model?

It is beneficial to be informed. Thank you for the elucidation.

A warranty repair often remains effective until the warranty period concludes. This condition is applicable solely if you purchase the component and incur the expense for its installation. Several years ago, when my three-year-old BMW underwent its initial MOT, the dealer conducted the standard complimentary health assessment and contacted me to inform that the battery was subpar, offering to replace it under warranty if I desired. I readily accepted and, while knowing the response, enquired about the warranty I would receive. As anticipated, the reply indicated it would last until the conclusion of the manufacturer's guarantee, which was two days hence. It remains preferable to incurring the expenses associated with the battery, installation, and programming.

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