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I really like the way they look and feel compared to the W205, so it's a shame I have to read up on them. Thank you for your response. Getting a late 2014 or 2015 version won't solve that problem, in my opinion; the information is often contradictory because MB isn't forthcoming about whether or not they changed them later on.

Revisit the W204 Rear Subframe search. You are not being excessively worried; it is terrible. Even with a recent MOT, W204 cars can conceal corrosion in the rear subframe. However, results do appear to be inconsistent. Even worse, MB is unwilling to admit fault.

Good day, The operational expenses, petrol, taxes, and mileages I was doing just weren't feasible at the time, and I still occasionally regret selling my previous W203 C class petrol automatic, but I inherited it from my dad. I am currently hunting for a 2.1 C220 CDI BlueEfficiency AMG Sport Edition 125 G-Tronic+ Euro 5 (s/s) 2dr that I hope to purchase with approximately 100,000 miles on the odometer, a partial history of Mercedes-Benz service, and that was recently serviced at the Mercedes-Benz specialist. Any specific purchasing advice would be greatly appreciated. Even though I'm usually comfortable checking over cars because I do a lot of maintenance on my own, the sub frame problem is really getting under my skin. It seems to rust internally, which isn't always obvious from the bottom, according to my research. I feel like I'm being overly concerned, but there's no guarantee that MB will cover the cost of the expensive repair, and the MOT history doesn't indicate any rust or corroded rear coil springs or suspension parts. Truthfully, my mom's A class hasn't been very successful, and I blame the fact that we don't often buy from main dealers but rather from local specialists. I would be very appreciative of any additional guidance on what to prioritise when purchasing the vehicle. I am very grateful.

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My sincere appreciation

Finding a shop to handle it is my recommendation after that last question; the process is the same regardless of the location of the hose: release the clamps, remove the old hose, install the new one, and then secure the clamps. With its roomy interior and convenient location, the Tracker is a breeze to drive. This is not the case with the Tracker; in other vehicles I've worked on, you either have to feel your way or pull the engine to gain access; in at least one case, you actually have to pull the engine. If you're not confident in your ability to access and properly connect the Tracker's upper and lower radiator hoses, you shouldn't attempt to work on other parts of the vehicle. The lower hose does not connect to the engine block; instead, it is divided into two sections: one that travels from the radiator to a metal pipe, and another that branches off that pipe to feed the heater and bypass hoses. This second section then connects to the block behind the water pump. While changing the hoses in a cooling system isn't rocket science, there are a few obstacles to overcome. For example, as you may have noticed, getting to the hoses on the bottom of the radiator can be a bit of a problem. With practice, you'll pick up tricks like twisting the hose before pulling on it or inserting a right-angled pick between the hose and the 'pipe' and working it around to break the bond. Corrosion to the point that individual metal pipe sections snap at the slightest touch is another common occurrence. Lastly, make sure you use the right hose. Be wary of those who try to sell you hoses rated for fuel or oil and tell you they will work. They may, but they will become brittle from the ethylene glycol in the coolant within a year, making them break instead of bend.

I need to know the best way to change the radiator hoses on my 1996 Geo Tracker 1.6 engine.

It is difficult to even see, much less reach, the lower hose on the engine block. Which components of the engine must be removed?

Only one way to do it: loosen the clamps, take out the old one, put in the new one, tighten the clamps, and then refill with coolant.

The lower radiator hose on my 1996 Geo Tracker 2-door has blown. I need to know how to replace them.

No matter the manufacturer, a generic code reader can read all powertrain (Engine and Transmission) codes. When the OBD2 standard was first introduced in the US in 1996, that was its entire purpose. When it comes to modules like airbags, anti-lock brakes, and others, you'll need a tool that can communicate with data specific to the manufacturer. Due to the engine-related nature of the issue, a generic reader should suffice.

Amazon.co.uk : OBD II scanner

Achtung, spoiler! Despite what some may say, any obd reader will not be able to read Ford codes. You will need to invest in a dedicated device.

Does the vehicle have any codes that have been scanned? To guide you in the correct way, there might be some codes that are still pending.

Post back and we'll do our best to walk you through the limp mode if you're interested in learning more about it.

Is it possible to remove the current bolt and bring it to your nearby B&Q to check if one of their "standard" metric nuts will fit? The thread count might not be standard, though, in terms of turns per millimetre. They should work with any old bolt if their pitch is 1.75. In such case, you'll have to consult catcar for the 7-digit Ford part number known as the finis code.data, as petesford has previously stated up there. Gather your vin number and input it into catcar.enter your vehicle's information to retrieve version-specific data. To switch to English from Russian, go to the page's top right and click the American flag.

Ford - Catcar.info

Do some research on the Ford-Catcar part.to determine if they are identical, or to simply remove the old one and measure it with a gauge. Get the diagnostic codes for the limp mode using an OBD2 reader or forscan.

My little 1.4 TDCI Ford Fiesta has this strange place in my heart, and you can call me a mug if you want. No matter how much I try, the engine will never stop giving me the willies. It briefly entered limp mode yesterday and is now hesitant to load. Thirty miles later, after restarting the car, I made it home, but the underlying hesitation in acceleration remained. Just what is it? Additionally, I need a specific component—a bolt located on the underside of the rocket cover/air induction unit. Despite being the eighth owner, I've only ever used one of the two 8mm socket bolts that are on the back of this.

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Thank you. I will evaluate tomorrow.

You should be able to spot a piece of rubber pipe sticking out of the door hinges if you look at them from the front.

I am grateful. Even though I'll have to search more, I anticipate seeing them up front as well.

Amazon.co.uk : Automatic Transmission Fluid

I always assumed they were at the front (it's been a long since I've had a sunroof), so you got me on that. They were all up front when I was a kid, but they've all retired by now. bump..