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To learn more about P2401's diagnosis, watch the video below.

Last week, the traction control and check engine lights came on. I went to Autozone to get some codes read, and they shared P2401 and a few of others (all having to do with emissions). I replaced the gas cap, put it on, and gave it a spin, but it still wouldn't start. After that, I disconnected the negative battery terminal for 10 minutes to force a hard reset, and the lights stopped flashing. Following it, the idling was subpar, and it would occasionally die when I pressed the brakes to halt. I discovered that these automobiles require a few minutes of idling before they can retrain themselves, so I might have to leave it running at idle for that. That fixed it; for the next two days, I had no problems with the lights. Nonetheless, both lights turned back on today. Is anyone else familiar with this or has any thoughts about what might be happening? Perhaps you should clean the MAF sensor or the throttle body; I saw that mentioned somewhere.

Fantastic, I appreciate it. I really hope the route planner is revived. When I was at home, I appreciated being able to input a destination and having it sent directly to my automobile.

It happens to me all the time as well. It can be because of the slow internet connection. The functionality is restored once the PIN is input.

On rare circumstances, yes, if the Pin Code is what you mean.

Has anyone else encountered the problem whereby opening the app with faceID activates the ID, but the app still does not unlock and requires the passcode to be entered?

Similar to you, I enjoy rummaging around beneath my antique Porsche, but an independent Mercedes workshop does the majority of the work on my Merc. I saw that the labor to change the air bags was charged as 2 hours when I reviewed my invoice. It is up to you to decide... Are you currently residing in Kent or are you originally from Kent? I saw your name.

Both bellows are probably leaking. These things decompose at the spot where the rubber is fastened to the plastic block. On a 212, they're not too difficult. You can just wiggle the old, deflated bag out and the new, inflated one in; no arms need to be undone. The one and only real challenge is that the lower plastic block's holder in the lower arm can be somewhat snug at times. I use an air chisel to get them free, but not everyone has that luxury

I'd probably hire someone to do it for me when I'm 72 years old, just so you know. Of course, I'm not claiming it can't be done 🙂 The labor cost for the bellows shouldn't be too high, since it's the kind of task that would be much easier with a ramp rather than squirming around underneath.

The air bags can be replaced on your own, according to what I've read. How about the valve block and pipes? Oh, and I used to build a Cobra using an RV8 engine that I rebuilt myself. I also have a great assortment of ramps, trolley jacks, axle stands, and tools. Am I too old to do this? I'm 72 years old now. Your responses are greatly appreciated.

Both of my 212s have been bellows, so I can say that from personal experience. You might try spraying the pipes and bellows with some soapy water, although it generally doesn't reveal anything. When parked on a level surface, both of mine would fall over. However, when I drove home on a tiny hill, they tended to stay there, even when the weather got colder. It takes my friend about three hours for her identical model to perform the same thing. The leak became too severe for our friend to continue inflating the bags; eventually, all four vehicles were affected. Because they are a moving component, the bellows are where I would put my money for wear and tear. There have been reports of the air pipes rubbing against the subframe; the most cost-effective solution would be to replace them. Do a search on the forum; you'll find many threads discussing this issue.

The airbags on my low-mileage 212 were leaking. Weak in cold temperatures, but fell uniformly on both sides. Never dropped again after replacement. It can be more costly to experiment with the diagnosis technique when you're also paying for labor (multiple visits), therefore I'm assuming BlackC55's proposal is based on their extensive experience. If the air springs aren't going to last very long anyhow, and you plan on keeping the car for a while, replacing the pipes and valve block might be less expensive and less of a hassle than completing the job twice.

If you ask me, the valve block is probably to blame.

Many thanks. It seems like you might aim the parts cannon at it. I am unsure as to whether the airbags on the left and right side are connected. Why does the car fall uniformly on both sides if one airbag or pipe is leaking? Assuming they are on distinct ones.

Yes. First things first: 1. Two rear bellows that are new. 2. A system of pipes that supply air to the bellows 3. A replacement valve block. Beyond that, it has a ten-year lifespan.

I let my car sit for a few weeks without driving it, and when I got back, the rear suspension had fallen entirely. It hadn't done it in five days, but now it did it again. Starting the engine causes the suspension to pump up and remain in that position. Once it has landed, it will be level on all sides. Is anyone able to explain what's going on?

By 2012, the majority had the latest version of the N47, therefore it seems that the E82 never got it. It is evident that BMW did not update the previous 1 Series with the release of the F2X. Then, that safety belt ought to work.

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I see what you mean about how close the throttle body is to the oil filter. This post was born out of my anxiety, but I've calmed down now that I have the donor vehicle's VIN: WBAUR32030VL28468. Based on my research on Realoem, it appears to be the same setup.

A 2012 harness might not work because your vehicle's manifold, throttle valve, and perhaps DPF sensor configuration is changed from that year. Instead of being located beside the alternator, yours, if my memory serves me well, has the manifold with the throttle body close to the oil filter.

I've placed an eBay harness order, but I can't shake the feeling that there might be some subtle discrepancies. This 2009 320d [E90 with N47 engine, model code PN32] is the vehicle in question. This 2012 120d [E82 with N47 engine, model code UR32] gives us the harness that we need. The original harness (the one that attaches to the main plastic box between the rocker cover and intake manifold) has the number 850720902, whereas the donor harness (also with the number 1251 850 7209) has the number 850720903. When it comes to both automobiles, RealOEM just gives you an 11-digit number without the 02 or 03 suffix and says it's the right part number. Is anyone aware of any major distinction between the two?

That's fascinating.🤩

Being an American writer, I will preface this by saying that I am sorry if my spelling and punctuation are incorrect. The 2017 e300 and the 2021 e450 All-Terrain are the two MBs that we own. The e300's navigation system isn't updated or functioning correctly anymore. As of December 31, 2025, we are aware that the 3G module will no longer function and that the mbrace service will be discontinued. Unfortunately, Mercedes-Benz is out of options when it comes to fixing this problem. We had the navigation map upgraded to the most recent version at our MB Dealer for our e300, however it is still acting problems. Furthermore, we are unable to pair our mobile devices with the vehicle's Bluetooth system. Neither of our cell phones will pair or be recognised by it. It appears that there are no solutions while looking for a remedy. How is this problem being addressed in the UK? It seems to me that 4G has been available since 2009. Why Mercedes-Benz waited till 2019 to implement 4G is a mystery to me. Would you have any thoughts to share? Who needs this hassle? Will my phone's built-in Wi-Fi allow me to access the Internet when I put it into a power outlet? "I know a lot about a lot of things, but I'm a master of nothing."