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For that task, a Dremel would be the right tool to use. Just like I mentioned before, wait to attach the wiper arm after you've let the vehicle run and park before installing the replacement. Otherwise, you might find yourself wiping the number plate again, haha.

I have taken everything apart, but I still can't get that nut off. I've ordered a used motor to replace the broken one. My plan is to use a hack saw to try cutting through the steel bit that connects the motor to the wiper. If that doesn't work, I'll resort to bolt cutters. The only other option I can think of is to use bolt cutters. I'm afraid I overtightened the nut, and now it's below the threads. I don't have enough leverage to try and catch it.

Okay, I'll take care of it. The motor is still functional, but it wipes in the opposite direction. Does anyone have any suggestions for removing it? The nut is spinning in place.

You may get a used wiper motor on eBay or at a scrapyard. Put the wiper arm on only after you've tried the engine and parked.

Greetings everyone, I was on my way home from work when, twenty minutes later, I noticed my window wiper was hanging down and wiping below the badge when I heard this strange noise. I took the cap off to find that the bolt needed tightening. I did that, but it kept wiping down the same way. I reset it in place and tightened it again, but now the bolt just spins and won't loosen. It's still wiping down the same way. I tried to remove the bolt, but it just spins, as if the treads had worn away. I'm at a loss. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Your thorough explanation is much appreciated. I think I've finished planning my weekend project 🙂

Cut Power to the Battery (Hard Reset) If the warning lights are on, clearing the ECU will reset any stored fault codes and turn them off momentarily. Cons: The ECU will not remember any changes made to idle speed, throttle position, or fuel trim. When a Toyota's engine isn't drivable, the Check Engine (CEL) light and Traction Control (TRAC) light will often both come on at the same time. As soon as the electronic control unit detects abnormal engine power, such as misfiring or stalling, traction control can be disabled. P2401 + emission-related codes, most likely in the EVAP system, were the ones that AutoZone used to provide. Failed EVAP Vent Solenoid/Purge Valve A malfunctioning vent solenoid is the source of the P2401 code. Rough idling and stalling can be caused by a blocked purge valve. Steam Leaks These symptoms can be caused by any broken hose that connects the EVAP system to the intake manifold or the throttle body. Restored MAF sensor Instead of carb cleaner, use the correct MAF cleaner. Thoroughly scrub the throttle body Specifically, the plate and the passive air spaces around it. Evaluate components of EVAP Vent solenoid and purge valve operation. Look for breaks or separations in the hoses. To find vacuum leaks, while the engine is idle, spray carb cleaner around the hoses; if the RPM changes, the leak is located. Allow the vehicle to idle for ten to fifteen minutes after cleaning so it can retrain itself on the proper throttle and idle positions.

I would say that I have taken an interest in doing some basic auto stuff on my own in the past year or two. Services such as oil changes, radiator drains and refills, brake pad replacements, and so on. Usually I take it to this auto parts store to get it read out since I don't have access to a code scanner.

Gas cap replacement had no noticeable impact. A gas cap is designed to repair damaged or loose seals, therefore that's perfectly normal. By itself, a replacement cap won't fix an EVAP system that has a faulty solenoid or other component. Can you find a code scanner? How mechanically inclined are you?

To learn more about P2401's diagnosis, watch the video below.

Last week, the traction control and check engine lights came on. I went to Autozone to get some codes read, and they shared P2401 and a few of others (all having to do with emissions). I replaced the gas cap, put it on, and gave it a spin, but it still wouldn't start. After that, I disconnected the negative battery terminal for 10 minutes to force a hard reset, and the lights stopped flashing. Following it, the idling was subpar, and it would occasionally die when I pressed the brakes to halt. I discovered that these automobiles require a few minutes of idling before they can retrain themselves, so I might have to leave it running at idle for that. That fixed it; for the next two days, I had no problems with the lights. Nonetheless, both lights turned back on today. Is anyone else familiar with this or has any thoughts about what might be happening? Perhaps you should clean the MAF sensor or the throttle body; I saw that mentioned somewhere.

Fantastic, I appreciate it. I really hope the route planner is revived. When I was at home, I appreciated being able to input a destination and having it sent directly to my automobile.

It happens to me all the time as well. It can be because of the slow internet connection. The functionality is restored once the PIN is input.

On rare circumstances, yes, if the Pin Code is what you mean.

Has anyone else encountered the problem whereby opening the app with faceID activates the ID, but the app still does not unlock and requires the passcode to be entered?

Similar to you, I enjoy rummaging around beneath my antique Porsche, but an independent Mercedes workshop does the majority of the work on my Merc. I saw that the labor to change the air bags was charged as 2 hours when I reviewed my invoice. It is up to you to decide... Are you currently residing in Kent or are you originally from Kent? I saw your name.

Both bellows are probably leaking. These things decompose at the spot where the rubber is fastened to the plastic block. On a 212, they're not too difficult. You can just wiggle the old, deflated bag out and the new, inflated one in; no arms need to be undone. The one and only real challenge is that the lower plastic block's holder in the lower arm can be somewhat snug at times. I use an air chisel to get them free, but not everyone has that luxury

I'd probably hire someone to do it for me when I'm 72 years old, just so you know. Of course, I'm not claiming it can't be done 🙂 The labor cost for the bellows shouldn't be too high, since it's the kind of task that would be much easier with a ramp rather than squirming around underneath.

The air bags can be replaced on your own, according to what I've read. How about the valve block and pipes? Oh, and I used to build a Cobra using an RV8 engine that I rebuilt myself. I also have a great assortment of ramps, trolley jacks, axle stands, and tools. Am I too old to do this? I'm 72 years old now. Your responses are greatly appreciated.

Both of my 212s have been bellows, so I can say that from personal experience. You might try spraying the pipes and bellows with some soapy water, although it generally doesn't reveal anything. When parked on a level surface, both of mine would fall over. However, when I drove home on a tiny hill, they tended to stay there, even when the weather got colder. It takes my friend about three hours for her identical model to perform the same thing. The leak became too severe for our friend to continue inflating the bags; eventually, all four vehicles were affected. Because they are a moving component, the bellows are where I would put my money for wear and tear. There have been reports of the air pipes rubbing against the subframe; the most cost-effective solution would be to replace them. Do a search on the forum; you'll find many threads discussing this issue.

The airbags on my low-mileage 212 were leaking. Weak in cold temperatures, but fell uniformly on both sides. Never dropped again after replacement. It can be more costly to experiment with the diagnosis technique when you're also paying for labor (multiple visits), therefore I'm assuming BlackC55's proposal is based on their extensive experience. If the air springs aren't going to last very long anyhow, and you plan on keeping the car for a while, replacing the pipes and valve block might be less expensive and less of a hassle than completing the job twice.

If you ask me, the valve block is probably to blame.

Many thanks. It seems like you might aim the parts cannon at it. I am unsure as to whether the airbags on the left and right side are connected. Why does the car fall uniformly on both sides if one airbag or pipe is leaking? Assuming they are on distinct ones.