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A low fuel pressure signal could be shown if the saddle tank's lift pump fails.

I'm a bit worried about this 330d 184hp car since it won't start. With the ignition on, I can hear a loud buzzing sound coming from the fuel pump under the hood, and I can see petrol running to the Hffp. Someone has torn out the glove box and opened the fuse box, and there's another one under the hood. The person from whom I got it said that it may be the ecu, but I'm not sure. My codes range from 1260 to 1E00. Thanks in advance for any guidance you may provide!

Yes, it's possible that leasing is less expensive now. Lower initial investment and greater ongoing payments with no depreciation or ultimate payment to consider. Leasing seems like the better choice when you add up all the costs of each option.

If you aren't planning to retain the automobile for an extended period of time, I recommend checking into the "lease option'. In many cases, the lease option appears more appealing as compared to PCP when one simply looks at the whole cost. Leasing becomes an even more attractive alternative when you consider the unpredictable used-car pricing of electric vehicles, which are affected by the fast development of technology.

I want to thank everyone. Came up with a fresh idea: a GT line in black. Have just made an order

https://www.kia.com/uk/used-cars/

The warranty is extended to a full seven years from the date of purchase if it is a "Kia Approved Used" vehicle that is less than twenty months old and has less than 20,000 miles on it.

You still have six more years of coverage on a vehicle that is only a year old, thanks to the seven-year warranty. When it comes to the ICCU problem, it might happen in a used automobile or a brand new one. Bring it up, and have the dealer clarify in writing that a car will be available in the event that such an issue arises; otherwise, you will be unable to drive while it is being repaired. It has been a pleasure to own a Kia E-Niro, which is over six years old; the only problem was a charging flap problem, but it was resolved within a day thanks to the guarantee. Is it safer to take a chance on an unknown purchase—new or used—or hold on to my 2020 E-Niro? Today, it seems like everything is up in the air. These days, anxiety appears to affect the entire country.Buying a used automobile won't kill you, and you can save a tonne of money compared to newer models.

Thank you!

I believe the 7-year Kia warranty may be transferred to a new owner, so even if you buy a used approved car, you'll still be protected for any ICCU concerns for the rest of the warranty. Just be sure to check with the dealer about the specifics of the warranty coverage. Additionally, I would assume that a certified Kia dealer would have the ability to view the whole record of maintenance for any car.

Greetings everyone; I'm hoping to purchase a Kia EV3, but I can't make up my mind between buying it new or getting an authorised used one from a dealership. Since this will be my first electric vehicle, I'm a little anxious about selling my Skoda Kamiq and making the transition. Currently, Kia is providing a reasonable offer of a £3,000 down contribution and a loan rate of 3.9%. But I'm also seeing certified pre-owned vehicles with really low mileage (some with less than 1,000 miles and less than a year old), so I'm starting to wonder if it may be the better choice. I am particularly worried about the ICCU problem and the possibility of getting a "lemon." After reading about charging failures and several ICCU replacements, I can't help but wonder: how probable is it that I would purchase an authorised used vehicle whose previous owner sold it because of persistent issues? When I do depart, I will: In particular, what am I supposed to be on the lookout for? Could you tell me how to find out if the ICCU has been changed or if the vehicle has experienced maintenance issues frequently? Are the dealers able to provide you the whole history of the car's repairs and warranty? As a whole, I'd be very grateful for any recommendations you have for someone making the switch from internal combustion engine to electric vehicle (and deciding between new and almost new). Thank you ahead of time!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=eibach&campid=5338181132&customid=2518X1570512X8e6a65b123a12d4bd06dd0a6113b1046&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&subId2=15&toolid=10001

Thanks to Eibach, I'm satisfied.

Hiring H&R is a good choice. Mine was a W218 CLS63 AMG. For sizes of all kinds, they're Tüv-approved. Additionally, the G55 Gwagen had them. Expensive, but of exceptional quality.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=eibach&campid=5338181132&customid=2518X1570512X0aa553f1b0866f49ac8933bb0e4ee70b&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&subId2=15&toolid=10001

Unused on the shelf are a couple of Eibach spacers designed for Mercedes. The actual size and fit are slipping my mind. What are they? I'll have to check tomorrow.

I want to get them so they're flush with the arch tops since they do. Not a fan of the "sucked in" wheel appearance, but at the same time, I'd rather not have anything contact the road during rapid bends. So, even if I've noticed 20 mm in the back, it's still too tight. As long as they are 15 mm or less, my insurance won't mind spacers, too. Those are, in fact, AMG IV wheels with dual six-spoke covers.

Do you happen to have a pair of staggered AMG Style IVs? Those wheels do sit very deep in mine, so I'll be curious to see how you fare.

for a W212 that isn't an AMG (as if that were relevant!) Therefore, a 66.6 mm center bore and 5 x 112 PCD are required. must center on the hub. My ideal order would be two 12 mm and two 15 mm thick ones, but I would be satisfied to get four 15 mm ones as well. Maybe someone has spares in the garage or took them off a car before selling it. If the price is appropriate, I'll buy it without the extended 45mm bolts, but that's my preference. The option to purchase a single pair of ones that are 12 or 15 mm thick is also available. Please send me a message with pics and the total amount, including shipping to Bognor. The condition is not critical because it will be painted before to installation. I am grateful.

😁

Fortunately, we were never required the additional 12-month warranty that came with our 2017 2.0l when we purchased it in 2023. "Problematic" is a strong word, but I'm willing to bet that this describes the outspoken minority who really do have issues. Never mind the silent majority who have experienced nothing but reliability; you never hear from us either.

Carefully review the DPF and Timing Chain's fine print... Timing chains are typically covered by warranties, but only if you replace them according to the manufacturer's recommended mileage change or before the first mileage change. DPF isn't always easy to understand either, since it relies on a lot of moving parts to function properly. It was the EGR valve that needed replacing, but I had DPF serious headache problems, so warranties are still a viable option. The engine has to be removed in order to reach it and fix it. Fortunately, it was covered by the warranty.

Great, I understand. Perhaps it would be best to just let it be then. Maintain a low profile and compensate myself

Yes, it's likely that you'll only find coverage if it breaks, as that's when it's failed. The problem is that if it breaks, it could ruin the engine or at least take other important parts like the camshafts, rockers, valves, and even the cylinder head. When it starts making noises, they might claim it's just normal wear and tear and not covered.

Good day. In all honesty, I don't think any of them would pay for normal wear and tear, brakes, exhaust, etc. However, you should verify that the timing chain is fully covered; typically, they only mention catastrophic failure, such as: 10,000 horsepower I regret getting my chain adjusted as a preventive measure so it wouldn't come loose. My insurance company refused to cover the $2,000 I spent on the service, even though I could have saved them $8,000