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There is just enough space to insert the 27mm socket onto the bolt, as shown in the images below, for it to fit within the pulley. So that it would lay flat on the metal cross member directly beneath, I bevelled the end of the bar. If anyone else needs to change the crankshaft pulley but doesn't want to spend £80 on the right equipment, I thought I'd share some pictures and measurements. Half an inch thick and one and a half inches wide is the dimensions of the bar. To form the angle to rest on the cross member, the longest side is 11.5 inches and the other side is 11 inches. Surprisingly, the holes were drilled at a metal fabricators where I obtained the metal bar, but to my delight, they fit precisely. Ignore all other holes; the ones you need to drill are 3.5 and 8 centimetres from the end. To avoid protruding, the M8 bolts have been trimmed to fit snugly inside the pulleys' holes. Since I despise reading things that don't end, I updated this in the hopes that it would be useful.

These are essential.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=engine+pulley+lockjg+chain&client=safari&hl=en-gb&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiC47qm54zNAhXqA8AKHQXYBe4Q_AUICCgC&biw=1024&bih=648&udm=2&sei=A7sWaur2EKyvhbIPvIqM8AE#hl=en-gb&tbm=isch&q=engine+pulley+locking+chain&imgrc=2acRbQw97_MqBM%3A

Apologies for the oversight. I should have clarified that I did locate the tool; but, it can only be bought from an American vendor and will set you back £80 (not including delivery). An amusing trinket for an occasional use item... Therefore, I am attempting to construct my own tool in some way. I have been contemplating this idea all day and plan to cut two little pieces off the end of the metal rod tonight to form a triangle. Then, I will thread another bolt through the top to hopefully secure it more firmly. Upon my return, I will share a photo.

https://www.specialtyautotoolrentals.com/lander?manufacturers_id=7&osCsid=1t2o0e0ssl0j6kj84m0r2ibj91&products_id=63

One such tool exists! W112 589 00 40 00 (I've never done this, but anyone who has could have some interesting things to say about it).

Salutations everyone, I have spent days researching the problem and have bought all the essential parts, including a genuine MERC harmonic balancer and bolt, a torque wrench to tighten to 200 nm, and a 27 mm impact socket, but I still can't figure out how to lock the pulley so I can remove the 27 mm bolt. As a means of leverage, I possess two sections of scaffolding pipe. A 50 mm thick piece of steel that I had drilled four holes at the end, fastened with two long bolts, and wedged into the ground was my creation. It was working fine until it fell out. Curious if anybody has ever created their very own tool... While the YouTube video demonstrates the proper usage of an equal tee with a coupler and flange, I'm afraid that this setup will not accommodate the 27mm bolt. There doesn't appear to be a flange that can accommodate both the 27 mm bolt and fitting inside the balancer. Please, if you have any ideas, help me get this beast back on the road! Best regards

Yes, you should inspect the terminal clamps for powdery rust by removing them from the terminals after loosening them. Use a wire brush to clean as necessary. Grease the connections and secure the clamps. Whatever works, thank you. If it doesn't work, you'll need to inspect the several ground/earth connections. Make sure there is no corrosion or looseness. If everything checks out, it may serve as the launch pad. If it's the starter, there's little need in spending time on the other tasks; they're part of routine maintenance nonetheless.

The battery is probably at blame if the connections to the ground and the battery are fine.

A broken starting solenoid might be the cause of the clicking and inability to turn over.

The body/engine relationship is negative.

Salutations everyone, The title accurately describes what happened tonight: the car wouldn't start, and there was a rapid clicking sound before the dashboard turned off. Suddenly, it began, and I wondered whether I was an exception. Afterwards, it repeated the process three or four times on my way back until it finally started. After checking the connections beneath the hood, I can say that the battery is okay. You probably guessed correctly; I returned to try recording it again, and it began without a hitch, haha! There doesn't seem to be enough power to start, thus I'm beginning to suspect the battery. What else should I look for? Or possible wrongdoers? TIA

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Here are a few pictures of the car; it is rather lovely. You can't refute the smooth ride, low center of gravity, and rapid cornering abilities—I still like my ML63, haha.

If you plan on keeping the car, I recommend removing and cleaning the intake manifolds, replacing the motor and swirl flap arms and getting the oil cooler seals done. A new turbo and actuator are likely next on the agenda. Once the turbo is removed, the manifolds may be removed in half the time. My best wishes.

Sure thing: - The EGR was dirty, but not completely clogged. I cleaned it anyhow and checked to see if it had any mobility. It does, and after I replaced it, it still didn't help. Even though someone else has previously modified the resistors, I decided to replace it because the connector looked a little oily and because I have 5w rated 4.7kohm resistors. I also taped it with high temperature silicone tape just in case. Regrettably, the issues remain; I am experiencing fuel cut incidents at random with the code 2616-02 and no EML during power outages. Does anyone have any suggestions on whether the actuator needs additional testing or if it should just be replaced?

My friend, Approximately six years ago, when my rear Sam was water damaged and I was scrambling to fix it because the Mrs was about to deliver birth any minute, you offered to assist me out; I hope you're doing well now. I believe that the Mercedes parts team ultimately demonstrated empathy and may have coded it because it was strangely described as "been taken out of its packaging but brand new and put back on the shelf" and didn't require any coding. Thank you, but I'm getting off topic. I'm waiting for the 4.7k ohm resistors to arrive from Amazon, and if they do, we'll move on to EGR instead of tinkering with the actuator. Over the past six years in the ML, I've managed to get by with an average of 12mpg, but as I was writing this, it hit me: the only time I look for an economy car is when something urgent demands it.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=egr valve&campid=5338181132&customid=2518X1570512X45d831e69638775f1e9baa244f876446&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&subId2=15&toolid=10001

The egr valve, turbo actuator, and swirl flap motor are all powered by the 5v supply circuit. The symptoms you mentioned could be caused by a malfunctioning component that is reducing the 5v supply. In my experience, each one has been flawed at some point. When testing resistors, swirl flap is a simple and fast alteration to use. Following that, I will examine the egr valve.

Hi there, We still have the ML63, but we're planning to do frequent 560 mile trips, so we figured it was time to get a mile muncher. So, we added a 2009 CLS 320CDI to our fleet. Someone I bought the car from mentioned that it can be a little of a stutter if you're not careful, but that it'll be alright if you're heavy-footed, haha. I knew I was getting a problematic kid since the price reflected that. Everything is fine. The issue: Once warmed up, the car isn't a fan of light footing; doing so causes it to jerk and hit fuel cut. However, you can feel it turning on, and with a reasonable amount of power, it blasts through without jerking. When it's warm, it despises light throttle. My accomplishments thus far: – After applying Stardas, I received code 2616-02. I viewed the live data and noticed that the b60 sensor reads approximately 1 bar at idle, which climbs when boost ramps up, as anticipated. This being said, I went ahead and replaced the sensor with a new one. Up until the car warmed up, it solved the problem... huh. - Checked the intake pipes for air, discovered a split in the MAF pipe at the turbo connection, sealed it with high-temperature silicone tape, and replaced the orange gasket that had chips. - After inspecting the actuator, I can confirm that it operates at 90% at idling and decreases as expected across the rpm range. The actuator appears to be operating as intended. Observed and verified using Stardas real-time data. Various other findings: I don't think the turbo blades ate the gasket because there is very little flexibility in the shaft and no traces of burnt gunk; nonetheless, the blades do exhibit wear and are far from flawless. I have 137k miles on my automobile. The vehicle still shows code 2616-02 and stutters under mild acceleration; it almost seems like it has stopped boosting correctly; it drives like a NA diesel; and only when you apply more throttle does it accelerate like a dream. I'm going to try connecting a 4.7k ohm resistor to the swirl flaps connector to see if that fixes it. If that doesn't work, I'll probably look at the actuator's electronics and physical gears. Apart from that, the car is in excellent shape; no other codes have come up, it pulls strongly and hesitates at full throttle. I can replace the matched actuator and turbo if necessary, but I'd rather check everything on my own first. Do you have any suggestions, fellow Mercs?

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Nope, all my cars have regular tires. A pump and a plug kit are always on hand; the former features a metal handle, making it more durable than its plastic counterpart, and retails for around twelve pounds. The one tire that was used on the automobile for three years didn't lose air pressure at all. I use the same kit in all of my cars.

I can confirm that I have found a ZF kit that includes the pan filter. I am anxious since I have never used an auto box before. The gearbox appears to be in good shape after I connected bimmerlink. Are regular tires available? Is there a spare wheel and can of muck in your bag?

With a service, the box should be OK (and perhaps with the new filter too). You can get by just fine with regular tires of the same sizes—no need for run-flats—if you go with a square arrangement.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=auto+parts&linkCode