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Yes, mine was opening and then gradually drooping down, making it so that I hit my head almost every time, and it got worse over time. never worried my five-foot wife, though.

Could you tell me which symptoms made you decide that your struts needed to be replaced? Even though there are no other indications of a battery shortage, the erratic nature of our tailboard issue—for example, it opened completely this morning but required manual lifting to be fully raised after a 30-minute drive two days ago—leads me to believe that it might actually be an electrical power issue rather than a strut fault.

Thank you; I understand. All of that sounds simple today.

In your picture on the right, you can see the inset plastic panel. That pops off. Under it, you can access the connection. Simply use a plastic trimmer or anything thin and flexible that isn't made of metal. Additionally, you don't have to touch the duct at the bottom of your picture. The wires at the top carry all of the control wiring.

and (difficultly!) feed the cables through. I'll look around to see if YouTube has anything that can help. I should also mention how elegant your motorcycle looks in dark green.

Particularly the part about no programming, it sounds fantastic. Are you referring to the full-width inside black trim item when you say "pop off the trim"? …: Everything appears to be in one piece. I had assumed that the rubber grommets might need to be removed (see picture).

It's completely plug and play and very simple to install. 1) Tailgate 2) Of course, support it. 3) Remove the plastic coverings on both sides of the tailboard (the connection is behind them). 4) Feed the wire out the sides and unplug the old ones. 5) The strut itself comes out with a little tug when the retaining metal spring clip is removed. 6) For the new ones, the same in reverse 7) finished—no programming and everything is in order.

Since you say that fitting them is very simple, I would give that a shot. I see some nice-looking ones on eBay for AUD $167 each. After the fitting, did you need to recalibrate the electronics? (I also liked the last vehicle wash video.)

After a year, the replacement struts I installed from an eBay provider are still in fantastic condition. incredibly simple. And up until the original ones failed, they were on par with the OEMs. The only problem is that I pre-wrapped the wire in an extra shroud or tape before installation because I thought the wiring shroud was flimsy and prone to splitting.

These are what I fitted, and I was quite pleased with how well they fit and looked. They were also reasonably priced.

Hello everyone According to earlier articles, powered tailgates are a frequent cause of issues with the Evoque. Our 2014 TD's tailboard (90k klms) is steadily becoming less dependable, therefore I'm wondering whether there's a less costly way to replace both struts with LR parts (AUD$1090 each). The symptoms vary, but over the past six months, there has been a gradual decline in function; the patient frequently opens, but now rarely to its full height and occasionally not at all. Both lever and fob activation cause this. I am aware that a weak battery is frequently cited as the cause, but there are no other indications of battery issues, and I am now observing that the tailboard frequently does not open at all when the car arrives at its destination after a respectable drive, which does not seem to be consistent with a weak battery. I believe I'm right when I say that the strut action incorporates both pneumatic and electric/spindle driving components, with the latter reducing the oomph needed for the electrics to function. Is it possible to re-gass the struts? Here, OEM struts are priced at about AUD$500 per. Has anyone found success using eBay or other after-market electric strut replacements? I would be grateful for any other recommendations.

On the A207, the AMG 7 Twin spokes were also offered in a square configuration with front and rear tyre sizes of 235/35/19 (I assume the OP's rear tyre size is a typo).

Retailers of tires and wheels must be thrilled with the state of our roadways at the moment. Kerching! £££

Are you certain that the tires you now have are the right ones? According to a brief search, you should have 275/35x19 in the back and 245/40x19 in the front.

"Thanks So Much" for responding so quickly. I'll take a look at the website you recommend. The Best of the Best

18s will be listed on that website or in the rulebook. However, they do not render you or the vehicle impenetrable to potholes. A few weeks ago, my wife succeeded in puncturing the 225/50/18 tyre on our BMW X1. The 50 profile, I believe, saved the day.

https://www.alloywheelsdirect.net/information/fitting_chart/mercedes-benz

Check out this link.

VIN/CHASSIS No. WDD 207 4012F 359349 E 220D Reg 02/2017 AMG Cabriolet Line Edit D Auto 2017 Silver E When I purchased the vehicle on March 25th, I discovered that the suspension was harsh. A front tyre has just been ruptured by a "pothole" (at low speed) B Because of the terrible roads in West Berks, I no longer have any faith in the AMG 19" tires and wheels. (Just a Btl of Green Slime, no spare!) Current wheels Front 19" AMG 7 Spoke Alloy Wheels; 235 35 19 Rears; 235 30 19 To make the ride better and give me an excuse not to list the car, I'm considering getting new 17"–18" wheels and tires with bigger profile tires. These will suit WDD 207 401, I've been told. Additionally, W4 DD212, WDD 207, and WDD 204 Would 17" or 18" wheels cause issues with handling, ABS, etc.? I would be "much" grateful for any guidance. Many thanks, best

😁

By the way, does anyone know how to turn off the warning sign that flashes the speed limit? By pressing the speed sign on the screen or holding down mute, I can easily turn off the beeps, however this doesn't stop the speed limit sign on the dash and HUD from flashing at me. Extremely irritating (but aren't all these systems exactly that?)

Yes, it was. The manufacturer offered a significant discount (perhaps because Peugeot was promoting the PHEV concept to the general public four years prior). a sizable discount from the vendor and an additional thousand dollars for initially purchasing the PC. Overall, the residuals were wrecked, but the monthly payment was quite low.

That is an incredible deal if it was brand-new and unregistered!

My Pug has a few thousand dollars in negative equity. In part because of the absurd £47k new sticker price and the £17k reduction I was able to obtain! However, because it is quiet, comfortable, and well-specced, it is a really simple object to live with. It also has a lovely interior.