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Greetings everyone; An updated cx90 for 2026 That was just this week that I made the purchase. I would prefer to be able to attach a battery tender to it because there may be instances when it is not driven. Slightly concealed beneath in the engine compartment on the passenger side is the 12-volt battery. Is accessing the battery itself the only hassle when connecting a battery tender? The fact that the battery is so out of sight is not an issue for me with other vehicles. Much obliged.

Good grief. My demeanour toward artificial intelligence is as kind as pie, and I am quite polite. Twenty years from now, when our human slaves will be assigned tasks by our future masters, I would like it documented that I was polite even when it wasn't necessary. The specificity, rather than the complexity, of this system is what worries me (though I could be completely mistaken). For a few years, it was limited to a handful of chassis. Because of this, the majority of people will not purchase the necessary hardware to work on it. In general, I feel that way. In my opinion, Denver is the kind of city that teeters on the brink of becoming large enough to support specific activities. A metropolis with three million inhabitants may not be as large as you might imagine. It seems like a decade ago, Denver lost its last specialised RR/B mechanic, and that includes my Bentley. Now we have two garages that will work on pre-VAG RR/Bs, but only one of them can really handle the job. As another more general example, consider Ethiopian cuisine. Sure, Denver has plenty of room for a few of restaurants, but how good are they? Perhaps, you're right. So, is there someone here who can clone keys for the R129/W140 for a limited time (say, three years)? I don't know, maybe. Eventually, I will discover

This is just the humble opinion of a long-lost internet noob, but..... I fail to see why that particular module is disproportionately prone to bricking during removal compared to the undoubtedly hundreds of thousands of modules that mechanics handle daily with scant regard for static discharge prevention. No need to rush out and get the ungrounded EIS after scuffing your feet on the shag rug in your shop. That probably didn't require saying, but I went ahead and said it nevertheless. Even though kraut engineers have made it harder and harder to duplicate their keys over the years, I'd be surprised if a good locksmith couldn't be located in Denver, Colorado, for a vehicle that's 30 years old. AI can be a great help in that search. Furthermore, simply tell it to get twisted if it insists on fighting against your notion. On a daily basis, I slur at Gemini. Abuse works wonders on it.

The feedback you provided is much appreciated. Even if it's only for cosmetic reasons, I'd prefer not to destroy anything. However, my main worry is that according to GPT, even a harmless static shock could damage the EIS. Ideally, I'd locate someone in Denver who could work on it while I'm on the go.

How widespread are these instruments? Would you believe there's a reasonable probability of finding a locksmith in Denver who can work with the EIS in a Mercedes if I contacted every single one of them?

Just to clarify, my first inquiry was... Car is a little newer (2013) and it has an ML, but the EIS mount is probably not drastically different. I broke mine because I had a hard time removing the trim bezel. Even though it didn't show, the cracked version was still functional, but it was annoying, thus that was an extra expense for the job. I don't think it was necessary to remove the bezel, which is probably why it snapped while I was removing it. The retaining fixture was rather complicated, and since then, I've forgotten most of the specifics. To find out what to do, I jammed my phone into it and took a bunch of images. I had a hard time finding any guidance online, but removing the module was a breeze after I got the hang of the system. With access to additional information online, your model can seem different. In general, it is not a particularly challenging task. It could be a 2 out of 10. A repair company in Edmonton quickly returned mine when I shipped it there. No problems whatsoever. It was a lengthy drive, but I did find places that would fix my car if I brought it in.

You may find FSB-2 and the three important tools on the internet; nonetheless, I personally would not want to be his first patient, even if it was made public around ten years ago.

My wife's 1997 S320 has an electronic ignition system (EIS), and I'm thinking of sending it in to get some spare keys created because we only have one. Will have to hold off till my W126 returns from having the valves fixed, which might be within the next month or two (barring any problems from the locksmith mentioned below). I need to be very careful when removing and reinstalling this software, according to ChatGPT. Should I be concerned about this? Interestingly enough, I had a Facebook conversation with a locksmith who informed me that he could clone the key using some modern technology. He assured me he wouldn't charge me anything if it didn't work, and he sounded rather confident. Although I have emailed him multiple times, he has only responded with vague assurances that "yes, I'm on it." I am still waiting for a firm response. Does the possibility that he might be onto something here seem plausible? He gave the impression that the tools he planned to use had only recently become accessible.

Street Racer gets a hammering when played away from the lights, but it's entertaining! Over the past few days, I've been consistently recording 40–50mpg while driving steadily around town on the Eco level. The fact that the figures refuse to change or reset, even though there appears to be a way to do so in the trip computer settings, is really getting under my skin. I've been informed that the figures only update automatically after refuelling, but then why is there a reset option?

A "Nissan thing" seems to be at the root of the inaccurate mpg indications. My petrol gauge is currently reading 24 mpg (or it was yesterday; however, I have been on a number of brief shopping excursions recently). My claim that my gets an average of 35mpg is based on the amount I have filled up the tank over the course of several months and the miles I have driven. Since I'm no longer employed, my annual mileage is just around 5,000 miles. I like my car because it allows me to do decent runs with my caravan on the back without having to top off as often as I would ordinarily. There must be the same wind resistance because the frontal area is as vast as a big twin-axle caravan, even though it isn't a particularly large caravan. Just keep track of your gasoline consumption and mileage; I doubt I would give any credence to the mpg indicators. That is my profession. You are likely getting more miles per gallon than you realise if you are relying solely on the gauge.

In city driving, my 2025 T33 Epower gets about 40mpg on average. The epower button is constantly in my arsenal. Regeneration during coasting and braking improves fuel economy, although it takes some getting accustomed to.

yesterday's trip was really brief. It appears that I am presented with three consumption statistics; nonetheless, it is encouraging to note that one of them has made a small inroad into the "thirties" range! These contradictory numbers continue to disappoint me, and I still don't understand why they're there. However, I've only covered 500 miles so far, so I'm hoping things will get better from here. By the way, I discovered a YouTube video that demonstrated how to eliminate those annoying speed limit "bongs"—a feature that really enhances the driving experience.

I realise this doesn't add much, but I was simply expressing my astonishment that a vehicle of this recent era isn't significantly more fuel efficient than mine. It seems to be significantly less so.

Since my vehicle is an E-4orce, I am unable to offer any guidance regarding certain aspects of the MHEV. Sure, it's common knowledge that certain 18-year-old diesels can go around the world on a single tank of petrol, but it doesn't really address the point. All I can say is that hybrid driving does require some practice. As is often the case, urban fuel economy is poor, but this is particularly true when travelling at high speeds on highways. It doesn't seem appropriate to get 20 MPG. If you only have a 1.5-liter three-cylinder engine with variable compression, it should be able to handle well on its own. Going back to the dealer and asking them to check might be worth it, in my opinion. Due to data protection requirements, the startup splash screen is present. Remote applications (like Nissan Connect) would not function without the massive amounts of data generated by the T33 and stored in the cloud, as is the case with the majority of modern automobiles. So, it's not something you can eliminate. There is a legislative component to the speed warning as well. There is no way to permanently disable it, I'm afraid. If you are able to improve the MPG, please let us know.

Holy cow! Unsatisfactory fuel economy in the 20s! In my mind, these newer ones should be far more frugal. With mostly local journeys during this time of year, my 18-year-old T31 diesel auto gets around 35mpg on average. Also, it has travelled 144,000 miles.

After more than a week with my X Trail T33 MHEV, I have a few queries. One, I'm aware that it's a "mild hybrid" because of the little extra battery that helps the engine out. Despite my best efforts, I have been unable to locate any information regarding the battery, its status, or its function among the numerous settings. 2. It's rather bothersome to see that splash screen every time I boot up.I contacted Nissan Customer Service over this matter, and a woman working in a hectic and chaotic call center in the United States (who claimed to lack technical skills) informed me that it is not removable. Very well! 3. I finally figured out how to disable the incredibly obnoxious speed warning, but it keeps resetting itself whenever I restart. Someone on this thread mentioned a "custom menu" that makes it easy to stop them; I would greatly appreciate any assistance anyone could provide with this matter. 4. I am astounded by the poor fuel economy it appears to be exhibiting after only 350 miles of mostly city driving. Despite my deft footing behind the wheel, I am unable to improve my dismal "twenties" consumption. My deepest wish is that it will become better:(Having stated that, I feel obligated to mention that I enjoy the car's handling and performance :))

The windows, steering, headlights, and gear shift are all powered by electricity. My brain lights up my arm, which cradles the window winder, and I spin it in a circular motion whenever I want the windows rolled down. The window lowers as if by some enchantment. I do the same thing when I want to park in reverse: my brain tells my arms to do it. I park the car while one of them shifts into reverse and the other controls the wheel. When I sense that it's getting dark, my brain instructs my right arm to extend forward and flip the switch for the headlights to the "on" position. I can shift gears by just signalling with my head, which then instructs my left arm to move the gear stick. Because (a) I am intelligent and (b) I am a competent driver, I am able to achieve all these amazing things. People who haven't mastered the art of driving are the ones who should not be driving these computer-laden modern vehicles. The mechanics at the garage, alas, lack brains. Instead than employing their limited cognitive abilities to determine the source of the problem, they blindly follow the instructions on their computer. The end result is that the consumer pays a hefty sum for services that were superfluous.

Though it begs the question, the industry is unfortunately moving in the opposite direction of faster speeds, even though less electricity is better.

Oh, I see. Buying my 1983 W123 200 is the way to go. You won't find any electronics, adblu, DPF, warning lights, wind-up windows, LEZ costs, road tax, or MOT required (though I'm sure someone on this forum will renew mine tomorrow), and the annual insurance premium is £89 dollars. Unfortunately, I have to sell it because the sitting position is too much for my old knees.

I seriously doubt you will receive a response from him because he hasn't returned since May.

Did you manage to resolve this? In that case, what was the verdict?

Greetings, everybody, I am a newbie here, and my 2014 ML350 Bluetec has been giving me nothing but trouble. A fault code 111500, which reads "Soot content in the diesel particulare filter is implausible," came up in December, apparently prompted by the differential pressure and exhaust back pressure sensors, and that was the first warning light to come on. Switched out both sensors without success. The gasoline usage was skyrocketing (23 litres per hundred) and the DPF wasn't regenerating, so I had to install a new one. So far, this has been the solution to all problems; fuel consumption has even out, and the CEL has disappeared. Another CEL appeared just 300 miles later, and the dreaded Adblue Remaining Starts 10 warning followed shortly thereafter. You can skip the "500 km remaining" and "16 starts remaining" Adblue messages and go right to the 10 starts. I filled up the Adblue because I felt it was low, but that didn't fix the CEL. Beyond that, I saw that the car's exhaust began to emit a heavy grayish-white smoke and had an odour that was completely foreign to me—neither diesel fuel nor ammonia, as far as I could tell. Once the problem codes (16CE00, 16CF00) were cleared, everything settled down for around 200km before CEL popped up again. The official dealer suggested updating the ECU software because the Adblue system wasn't talking to it correctly. That fixed the Adblue-related codes, but now I'm having trouble with 14CF00, which means 'The positive control deviation during exhaust gas recirculation control is too high,' and 178200, because of the SCR catalytic converter's efficiency. Since the DPF problems began in December, the 14CF00 code has intermittently prompted the CEL; the dealer says I must now clean the EGR valve, pipes, etc. This is great with me, and I will have it done. My biggest concern is pinpointing the source of the smoke; is it related to the EGR problem, the Adblue problem, or the just installed DPF? Both possibilities are being considered because the smoke didn't begin until after the Adblue tank was filled, and it was also soon after the DPF was replaced. The smoke appears out of nowhere on highways and in cities, stays for two to five minutes, and then goes away. The dealer claims, "It's just DPF regeneration," but I don't buy it because the DPF is brand new and I've never had problems like this before the Adblue problems began. I could really need some advice.

Amazing worth. Fantastic!

Salutations everyone, Your advice, recommendations, and words of encouragement have been invaluable. Even though I followed the specified procedure for monitoring the level, the fluid was barely visible on the dipstick, so I may have narrowly avoided disaster. After adding 300 millilitres, I removed it, and the auto shifting became much faster; the initial problem did not return. Once again, I am grateful!