The W124 230te is experiencing stalling and hesitation issues when subjected to a heavy load.

[OmahaKnot]

The car model is 230te.

Greetings, everybody.

My 230te, which has travelled 160,000 kilometres, has a problem of sluggishness, reluctance, and stalling while accelerating from a complete stop after the engine has reached its operating temperature.
The vehicle does not have any problems while starting in chilly conditions and operates well. Once it reaches the desired temperature.

After doing thorough research and meticulously examining many relevant factors, I have made several adjustments and verifications related to this matter.
Thus far, I have made changes to -
The distributor cap and rotor Ignition leads
Fuel filter
Fuel injectors
A device used to remove impurities from the air, often found in ventilation systems or air conditioning units.
Overvoltage protection relay
Ignition plugs

What I have examined and completed: I have inspected the fuel relay for any signs of dry solder, and it is in satisfactory condition.
Examined the gasoline strainer and confirmed that it is free from any dirt or debris.
Examined the idle control valve - functioning properly
Eliminated the auxiliary fuel filter located inside the fuel distributor.
Examined both gasoline pumps and performed maintenance on the terminals, confirming their proper functioning.
Examined for vacuum leaks - all hoses are undamaged and there are no breaks in the rubber on the fuel distribution unit.
Emptied the tank using the gasoline pump outlet located on the back ramps to inspect for any debris - no issues were found.

Thus far, I have accomplished the aforementioned tasks, resulting in the automobile now idling in a typical manner, a behaviour it previously lacked. Previously, the engine would have intermittent stalling when it reached operating temperature and was at idle.
While driving on the motorway at a speed above 1500 to 2000 revolutions per minute, the vehicle performs optimally. Additionally, during extended journeys lasting over an hour, the symptoms seem to alleviate when encountering start-stop traffic.
However, the next day it would resume malfunctioning. Operates smoothly when starting from a cold state. However, once it reaches operating temperature, its performance becomes inconsistent when approaching traffic lights or junctions. It may exhibit little reluctance while accelerating, but then runs smoothly at higher RPMs. Alternatively, it may have a jerking motion or a tendency to stall until the RPMs increase and it runs adequately until the next stop.
The engine operates well at idle, but has difficulties when subjected to a heavy workload.

I'm perplexed and in need of assistance. Is there anybody here who can help me identify anything that I have overlooked?

[Mututing]

Have you acquired the plugs from MB? I inquire since some websites advocate the use of resistor plugs. While some argue that resistor plugs are adequate, I see no justification for installing anything other than the appropriate plugs that are still available from MB.

Which electrical outlets did you install?

Once you have confirmed that your HT system is functioning well, I would recommend doing a duty cycle check using the following method:

Have you acquired the plugs from MB? I inquire since some websites advocate the usage of resistor plugs. While some argue that resistor plugs are adequate, I see no justification for installing anything other than the appropriate plugs that are still available from MB.

Which electrical outlets did you install?

Once you have confirmed that your HT system is functioning well, I would recommend doing a duty cycle check using the following method:

It is advisable to expect a reading of 70% when switching on the device, with the engine not in operation. The temperature gradually stabilises at 50% while the engine is operating until it reaches around 70C. Subsequently, the duty cycle should fluctuate approximately at a 50% level. Approximately between the ages of 45 and 55. Alternative values suggest a malfunction or that the cowboys have been tampering with the screw located at the upper part of the gasoline distributor. Avoid the urge to make unnecessary adjustments until you are quite certain that all other sensors and settings are absolutely accurate. Can be a lengthy process.

Please ensure to verify the precise figures for your engine. Those statistics belong to me. If you see a reading of 30% instead of 70%, it indicates that the probes of your metre should be interchanged.

If you do not already own a duty cycle metre, I highly advise acquiring one. This diagnostic approach is very beneficial when used with the KE Jetronic system. I purchased a Fluke 17B+ and have been satisfied with the investment. Although it was not inexpensive, I had to discard two or three low-quality ones before investing in a higher-priced one. Now, I am able to appreciate the assurance it provides. If you avoid incurring a garage charge, you have effectively covered the cost of it.

Additionally, I would want to emphasise the need of acquiring the whole high-tension (HT) system, including the coil and plugs, directly from the manufacturer, MB, if you are really committed to this automobile. The leads have a much improved fit, which instills a sense of assurance.

During the last weekend, I used a little

device to identify and measure electrical currents that were causing excessive power consumption.

After acquiring the knowledge of using it for detecting low current and calibrating the metre to a neutral position, it verified that everything is in good condition. Once again, a sense of self-assurance.

Happy hunting.

[OmahaKnot]

Hello, I appreciate your response.

I have purchased the NGK non-resistor spark plugs that have been highly recommended on this platform. Additionally, I own magnecore blue high-tension (HT) leads that are still covered by warranty.
I reverted back to using resistor plugs in order to see whether there was any effect, but, the issues remained same. Consequently, I reinstalled the non-resistor plugs.

I own a multimeter, but I am uncertain about its capability to measure duty cycle. Observe the enclosed image.

Furthermore, during a test conducted at idle in a neutral state, I saw that when I accelerate in my usual manner, the engine tends to stall. However, when I gradually and slowly increase the acceleration, the engine works smoothly without any stalling issues.

Is there a problem with the fuel/air mixture?

[OmahaKnot]

Upon examining the X11 port, as shown in the video, I have seen that there is no object present in aperture 3. I removed the lid but could not find any cable.Most likely, the reason is because the video features a bigger engine, namely the 230.

[Mututing]

Oh, my. Peculiar. I anticipate that port to be occupied, just like mine. May I inquire about your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)? This will provide a precise disclosure of your possessions to everyone.

[OmahaKnot]

I own the 2.3L M102 engine, which has consistently been the case to the best of my knowledge.

 

[OmahaKnot]

[OmahaKnot]

[MagicPod]

Is the sensor in the fresh air duct functioning properly? Additionally, examine the micro switch connected to the throttle linkage.

[Mututing]

Kindly provide an image of the gasoline distributor.

[OmahaKnot]

I believe I have identified a potential hoover leak as well. The hose has deteriorated at its base.

 

[Mututing]

Ensure the complete eradication of any and all hoover leaks.

It seems that my views are not relevant since I am unable to observe an EHA (Electronic Hydraulic Actuator) on the fuel distributor. It is possible that you do not own the Ke Jetronic system, but rather the K Jetronic system.

I believed that all 124s would possess the Ke, yet it seems that this may not be the case.

Any feedback or opinions from others?

I will remain silent until further clues are presented.

However, it is undesirable to have hoover leaks.

[OmahaKnot]

I certainly have the EHA valve, since I had to replace it a year ago because the prior one was leaking.

[OmahaKnot]

Indeed, there is certainly a leak present in that hose as well.

[OmahaKnot]

I just purchased a breather pipe, and it seems that this is the location where my old one has deteriorated.

[Mututing]

Significant advancement. Additionally, it is likely that you own various additional hoses, such as the one located underneath the metering head, which may have deteriorated. And the ones next to the idle control valve. Indeed, in all areas, including the gearbox, provided that it is an automated transmission.

Please provide us with regular updates.

I am still somewhat perplexed about the diagnostics port.

[OmahaKnot]

I am now in the process of purchasing a whole set of components from Germany. However, I have also arranged for a second-hand set to be delivered by Wednesday, which I think would be beneficial.
Fortunately, the automobile has successfully passed its MOT today, with just minor recommendations about the tyres. Therefore, it is essential that my emissions be in compliance with the problem at hand.