Ziinsig Posted June 19 Share Posted June 19 Greetings, individuals. Seeking assistance and guidance... I just acquired my Gen1 v8, purchasing it in March. Prior to picking it up, I had Ricky from @REPerformance install a Quicksilver titanium valved exhaust on it. Affectionate possession. Recently, on my most recent travels, I saw that the valves were not functioning properly. I did not perceive any change in sound while driving, confirming that they were really not operating. Both key fobs are functioning well, as shown by the blue LED on the fobs illuminating and successfully relaying signals to the controller located in the engine bay. I am almost certain that the vehicle will start, since it is a cold start and the valves are open. (Very noisy) and then when the engine speed stabilises at approximately 800rpm everything seems to be okay, but I suspect that the valves are still in the open position. Depressing the button to close them has no result. I have removed the engine bay cover on the right-hand side (RHS) where the controller and solenoid are located. Upon pressing the fob to shut the valves, I can clearly hear a clicking sound, but there is no observable action taking place. The sound is pronounced in the vicinity of the controller and the solenoid. However, I am not really certain. Is the 'click' originating from the controller or the solenoid? They are in close proximity. I have visually inspected the vacuum lines that are visible on the upper side of the engine compartment. However, I have not yet investigated further behind the covers and rear bumper to see the function of the vacuum lines in relation to the exhaust valves. Where do people believe the issue originates? I believe it is necessary for me to remove the back bumper in order to inspect the lines underneath or inside the exhaust system and determine whether there is a problem. However, I would want to seek guidance on the specific aspects I should inspect prior to removing the rear bumper. Any guidance or suggestions would be much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PopeyeR Posted June 19 Share Posted June 19 Hello, people. Requesting aid and direction... I just got my first-generation V8, having purchased it in March. Before collecting it, I had Ricky from @REPerformance put a Quicksilver titanium valved exhaust on the vehicle. Endearing ownership. During my last journey, I saw a malfunction in the valves. I could not detect any change in sound throughout the drive, therefore proving that they were really not functioning. The blue LED on both key fobs indicates that they are working properly and are effectively transmitting signals to the controller in the engine compartment. I have a high level of confidence that the car will start, given that it is a cold start and the valves are in the open position. The engine produces a significant amount of noise initially, but as the engine speed reaches about 800rpm, everything seems to be functioning well. However, I have a suspicion that the valves may still be in the open position. Pressing the button to close them has no result. I have detached the engine bay cover on the right-hand side (RHS) where the controller and solenoid are situated. When I push the fob to close the valves, I can audibly detect a clicking sound, but there is no visible movement occurring. The sound is audibly produced near the controller and the solenoid. Nevertheless, I am unsure. Does the 'click' originate from the controller or the solenoid? They are really near to one other. I have conducted a visual examination of the vacuum lines that are visible on the top section of the engine compartment. However, I have not yet conducted a thorough investigation of the inner workings of the vacuum lines in connection to the exhaust valves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ziinsig Posted June 19 Author Share Posted June 19 Thank you for your response, and it is a wise suggestion to test for a potential leak farther down the line to see whether there is one. It seems like I may need to remove the bumper. Expletive. Laughing out loud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PopeyeR Posted June 19 Share Posted June 19 Yes. In my particular situation, with the Top Gear Exhaust, the valves were clearly visible behind the rear vents, making it simple to see that one valve was not closing correctly. Almost, but not completely. If the severity of your vacuum leak is significant, it should trigger a Check Engine Light (CEL). However, in my situation, the leak must have been below the threshold to activate the CEL. Additionally, while you are in that location (with the bumper off), seize the opportunity to thoroughly clean and polish your exhaust tips. If not, I can provide you with examples that I have tidied up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PopeyeR Posted June 19 Share Posted June 19 The rear bumper is not too rigid. Familiarity with the exact locations of all the screws. Some objects are deeply embedded and concealed. In order to remove the wheel liners, you will want a jack or lift. The jack that comes with the vehicle is suitable for removing the wheel liners, but it becomes rather risky if you need to work underneath the car. An electric driver is essential unless you are willing to devote an additional hour on each side manually rotating the approximately one hundred bolts. Overall, I am capable of completing it in around 90 minutes, and I have successfully done so on three occasions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ziinsig Posted June 19 Author Share Posted June 19 I own a 2-post lift, which makes it convenient for elevating the vehicle and removing the wheels, arch liners, and accessing the underneath. I want to address this matter later today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxck Posted June 19 Share Posted June 19 What level of difficulty is involved in aligning the rear bumper correctly during reinstallation? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PopeyeR Posted June 19 Share Posted June 19 The bumper has little adjustability. The fascia and spoiler include additional features. Both components have shims that may be inadvertently misplaced or correctly repositioned. These shims can also be "stretched" by applying force and then maintained in place while tightening. Additionally, the lights have a ball and cup type fitting that can be adjusted by winding it in and out. However, as long as you avoid disturbing these fittings, there should be no need for any further adjustments. However, I made some adjustments to mine and managed to get a better fit than before, without removing anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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