CSI CLS320 - Stardas code 2616-02; I would really appreciate any assistance.

[engrol]

Hi there,

We still have the ML63, but we're planning to do frequent 560 mile trips, so we figured it was time to get a mile muncher. So, we added a 2009 CLS 320CDI to our fleet.

Someone I bought the car from mentioned that it can be a little of a stutter if you're not careful, but that it'll be alright if you're heavy-footed, haha. I knew I was getting a problematic kid since the price reflected that. Everything is fine.

The issue:
Once warmed up, the car isn't a fan of light footing; doing so causes it to jerk and hit fuel cut. However, you can feel it turning on, and with a reasonable amount of power, it blasts through without jerking. When it's warm, it despises light throttle.

My accomplishments thus far: – After applying Stardas, I received code 2616-02. I viewed the live data and noticed that the b60 sensor reads approximately 1 bar at idle, which climbs when boost ramps up, as anticipated. This being said, I went ahead and replaced the sensor with a new one. Up until the car warmed up, it solved the problem... huh.
- Checked the intake pipes for air, discovered a split in the MAF pipe at the turbo connection, sealed it with high-temperature silicone tape, and replaced the orange gasket that had chips.
- After inspecting the actuator, I can confirm that it operates at 90% at idling and decreases as expected across the rpm range. The actuator appears to be operating as intended. Observed and verified using Stardas real-time data.

Various other findings:
I don't think the turbo blades ate the gasket because there is very little flexibility in the shaft and no traces of burnt gunk; nonetheless, the blades do exhibit wear and are far from flawless. I have 137k miles on my automobile.

The vehicle still shows code 2616-02 and stutters under mild acceleration; it almost seems like it has stopped boosting correctly; it drives like a NA diesel; and only when you apply more throttle does it accelerate like a dream.

I'm going to try connecting a 4.7k ohm resistor to the swirl flaps connector to see if that fixes it. If that doesn't work, I'll probably look at the actuator's electronics and physical gears.

Apart from that, the car is in excellent shape; no other codes have come up, it pulls strongly and hesitates at full throttle. I can replace the matched actuator and turbo if necessary, but I'd rather check everything on my own first.

Do you have any suggestions, fellow Mercs?

[Lemmand]

The egr valve, turbo actuator, and swirl flap motor are all powered by the 5v supply circuit. The symptoms you mentioned could be caused by a malfunctioning component that is reducing the 5v supply. In my experience, each one has been flawed at some point. When testing resistors, swirl flap is a simple and fast alteration to use. Following that, I will examine the egr valve.

[Lemmand]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=egr valve&campid=5338181132&customid=2518X1570512X45d831e69638775f1e9baa244f876446&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&subId2=15&toolid=10001

[engrol]

My friend,

Approximately six years ago, when my rear Sam was water damaged and I was scrambling to fix it because the Mrs was about to deliver birth any minute, you offered to assist me out; I hope you're doing well now. I believe that the Mercedes parts team ultimately demonstrated empathy and may have coded it because it was strangely described as "been taken out of its packaging but brand new and put back on the shelf" and didn't require any coding.

Thank you, but I'm getting off topic. I'm waiting for the 4.7k ohm resistors to arrive from Amazon, and if they do, we'll move on to EGR instead of tinkering with the actuator.

Over the past six years in the ML, I've managed to get by with an average of 12mpg, but as I was writing this, it hit me: the only time I look for an economy car is when something urgent demands it.

[engrol]

Sure thing: - The EGR was dirty, but not completely clogged. I cleaned it anyhow and checked to see if it had any mobility. It does, and after I replaced it, it still didn't help. 

Even though someone else has previously modified the resistors, I decided to replace it because the connector looked a little oily and because I have 5w rated 4.7kohm resistors. I also taped it with high temperature silicone tape just in case.

Regrettably, the issues remain; I am experiencing fuel cut incidents at random with the code 2616-02 and no EML during power outages.

Does anyone have any suggestions on whether the actuator needs additional testing or if it should just be replaced?

[Lemmand]

If you plan on keeping the car, I recommend removing and cleaning the intake manifolds, replacing the motor and swirl flap arms and getting the oil cooler seals done. A new turbo and actuator are likely next on the agenda.
Once the turbo is removed, the manifolds may be removed in half the time.
My best wishes.

[engrol]

Here are a few pictures of the car; it is rather lovely.
You can't refute the smooth ride, low center of gravity, and rapid cornering abilities—I still like my ML63, haha.

[engrol]

😄😄😄