HushedGamer

Is the code in brackets a reference to a diagram? Thank you for the response. Finding circuit schematics online has also never been my strong suit. I've included a photo of the plug on the passenger side (I apologise for the skewed orientation). My plan is to number them from highest to lowest, starting at the left. For the left-hand side of the picture, we have 1 = 0 volts and 2 = 11.8 volts. Three equals the ground level 4 = 12v (5) times 12 volts 6—empty 7—empty The image's right-hand side 8-Rightmost 8-volt = 0 9 = 0v 10 — empty 11. - empty 12 = 0 volts 13—empty 14—empty The one on the driver's side is the same, with the exception In the upper left corner, 1 equals 2.7 volts. With 2=0, Although I haven't had the opportunity to take a reading of the plugs while the car is in that state, the DRLs do function again with merely the ignition turned on after it has been off all night. After a while, the passenger DRL either completely turns off (sometimes) or lingers in a flickering condition; nevertheless, the defect immediately reappears when driving or using the indication. I may receive somewhat different results when the DRL is switched on, as these readings were taken while it was completely off on the passenger side. I will not be able to recheck this until at least Saturday because I am away from the office all week for work. In case anyone needs it while looking for a wiring diagram, the vehicle identification number is WDD2052642F896389.

The problem reappeared after a drive; the next step is to switch out the modules on the driver's side, which will require removing the bumper. A bumper removal is in need since the next step is to switch out the driver's side modules.

The answers to my two queries up there are no, so I can update. Interestingly, I turned on the ignition and side lights this morning (without starting the engine), and both DRLs worked well. I proceeded to activate the danger lights, and they are both flashing well. Despite keeping the hazards on, I was unable to discern an alternating signal on either of the headlight plugs. One thing I did uncover is that there is a pin on the driver's side that is 2.7 volts, while the identical pin on the passenger side is 11.8 volts. Everything else has been a complete mystery to me. I seem to recall that the moment I attempt to turn left while driving the car, the fault and the flickering DRL will return. Could it be that the problem resets after a specific duration, indicating a potential issue with communication between the SAM and the DRL/Turn signal module? Therefore, I am not really sure what to verify next. Unfortunately, the front divers side SAM option does not have the possibility to access live data in scan tool. I was previously aware that there was voltage there from using the multimeter, but there are live data streams for other settings that pertain to the front left light and the front left LED matrix. I plan to run a new scan today to look for information under a different category, maybe the Body Control Module? I would be quite receptive to any more recommendations for what to verify. For example, is there anything in the SAM module that I should verify? Thank you very much.

Greetings everyone, It seems that nobody has come to a resolution despite the abundance of posts concerning DRL concerns. Assuming I am successful in solving it, I will see to it that this one does as well. It is a 2019 C43 S205. Listed here are the headlights: A2059069505 from Multibeam. I was travelling when the dashboard started flashing error warnings about a problem with the side lights, turn signals, and parking lights. I pulled over to inspect something, and the passenger-side DRL was flashing and the indicator wasn't functioning. Both the passenger-side rear cluster and side mirror indicators worked perfectly when I was behind the wheel. The car's indicator switching was lightning fast. The drivers' side is functioning normally. I left some silica packets in the headlight overnight because it had some dampness. When I turned on the left-hand indicator this morning, the DRL began rapidly switching on and off, and then it either stopped working altogether or flickered intermittently. This happened during the first start of the day. After realising that the DRL module is the tiniest of the three on each headlamp assembly, I swapped out the old, broken headlight with the spare this morning, but it still didn't work. Low and high beam operations are not affected by this. After looking for a signal at the plug, I was unable to find one. Using a multimeter, I was expecting to pick up an alternating current between 0 and 12 volts on one of the plug wires. Make sure the 12v power source is available. After switching the modules, I reinserted the previous headlamp into the socket, but it didn't work either. I don't think it was a valid test, though, because the two major modules were missing from that headlight. Thus, the crux of my question is: Is it possible to use a multimeter to detect an oscillating voltage at the main headlight connector when the indicators are turned on? I have previously verified that my 12v supply and ground are fine. Tomorrow I can try it on the driver's side to make sure it's true. (B) Assuming the previous point is correct, is it possible to trace the same wire back to the SAM module and check there as well? The present thinking is that it's a problem with SAM. Additionally, I can't seem to figure out if the SAM module is in the passenger side cabin or up near the battery. B162A64, B16EF64, U118A08, and U118A67 are generally communications-related issues that I've discovered during scanning. Would really appreciate any advise you can provide. PS: I like to troubleshoot on my own before taking it to the shop, so please don't advise that I do so; I will do so if I am unable to resolve the issue, but I am not giving up just yet. Notify me if any more information is needed.

That’s the sort of thing that would annoy me more than anything, photos never tell the full story

Yeah I’d trust your gut on these things buying a car without seeing it in person isn’t something I’d normally do, but that’s just me...

I had a similar experience. Purchased a 2023 Kia Sportage GT-Line just before Christmas. Delivery took about nine days instead of the seven they originally estimated, but they kept me updated the whole time.The car arrived exactly as described in the listing and video.I was uneasy about paying upfront but I spoke with them twice on the phone before committing. They answered every question without rushing me. The segregated account part did give me some reassurance since they don’t release the funds until you approve the vehicle within the inspection window.

Thank you for your assistance.

Thank you for the information; I am unperturbed by challenges as long as I own the necessary spare parts and equipment. I am particularly attracted to that alluring engine and its aesthetics.

Thank you for your assistance. I will undertake all feasible maintenance. What constitutes the ABC? The vehicle will possess minimal mileage, hence it is expected to achieve 50,000 kilometres with relative ease.

Greetings to all, I am considering purchasing a 2008 CL500. What is the overall assessment of this model? Do you find it favourable, or is it fraught with issues? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Avoid WBAC. The motorway is preferable; nevertheless, use caution regarding merchants who purchase and thereafter significantly lower the price. I concur that £15,000 on Autotrader is justified if in pristine condition. Approximately £13,000 for the motorway and £10,000 for WBAC.

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Thank you.

One hundred percent Extremely educational and beneficial. Highly appreciated

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Thank you.

Hello everyone, I have received many error codes from my X1 and am seeking guidance on how to resolve them. 00452A 004AFB 009520 Any assistance would be very appreciated.

He is correct, you are aware.

Greetings everyone, I changed all four discs on my 2011 C180 due to significant wear, but retained the pads since they were installed by the previous owner and were essentially new. I have acclimated them, nevertheless they continue to emit a little squeak under braking, although not consistently. I believe the brake discs are of inferior quality (the name is unknown since the garage installed them for a total of £250), and I have read online that low-cost discs and pads tend to produce more squeaking sounds. Should I write off that expense and invest in quality pads and discs all around, while also replacing the dust shields concurrently? I want to do this independently with assistance; what instruments will I need?

Thank you, that directs me to Euro Car Parts, which confirms their compatibility. I will examine the other barcode on the box in the morning and see whether it is “101221098.”

Nonetheless, the box indicates Audi Q8/Q7 and VW Touareg, as seen below. Can someone assist in confirming their compatibility with Indeed? Alternatively, if Halfords sent me with the incorrect item

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/car-parts/brakes/brake-pads/pagid-brake-pads-101221098-20258838000030.html?clickref=1011lBmL5PVg&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_source=skimlinks_phg&utm_campaign=phgreferral

I purchased Pagid brake pads, confirmed their compatibility, and both Halfords and Car 4 for Less said they were OK.