SilentSpanner

Ha ha...Indeed, I have been informed of the degradation of the dashboard and steering wheel rubber. Either the temperature in Vancouver is not sufficiently high, or my Solara has been well sheltered in a garage or carport, as there are no indications of tackiness or melting thus far.

Greetings, everyone. My primary vehicle is a 2004 four-cylinder Camry with 148,000 kilometres, which I purchased privately approximately three years ago after totalling my 2005 3.3 Solara in an accident. I recently purchased a 2000 3.0L Solara coupe from a used car dealership, in excellent condition, with approximately 197,000 kilometres on it, as I have a strong affection for and nostalgia for the Solara. The vehicle was acquired new and maintained consistently, as indicated by the Carfax report, at a local Toyota dealership, but the comprehensive history report commences in 2006. I contacted the dealership (West Coast Toyota) to verify the report's integrity and to ensure there were no irregularities from the auto lot, as I have encountered manipulated Carfax reports at less respectable establishments in the past. The dealership's service records extended barely four years but appeared to validate their accuracy. The vehicle appeared to have oil and filter changes annually, around every 10,000 kilometres. Upon inspecting the oil cover, I observed some muck, which is typical for the 3.0 L engine. I am considering performing an engine flush before transitioning to a high-quality synthetic lubricant. The records indicate that the gearbox oil was flushed at around 88,000 kilometres, but there is no indication of an engine flush. Do you have any opinions on the efficacy of performing a flush on a high-kilometer engine? I am enquiring regarding the timing belt, as there are no records of its replacement, save from documentation saying that the drive belts were inspected and the serpentine belt was replaced at 161,000 kilometres (June 2019). The dealership indicated that the belt was likely replaced at an independent garage due to the high costs associated with their services. The Carfax report indicated that the starter was privately replaced in 2014 at 132,000 kilometres. The automobile appears to be in superb condition. The vehicle operates efficiently, and documents demonstrate that components such as brakes and coolant have been routinely maintained. What are your opinions regarding the engine flush and timing belt? Thank you.

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Why must the turbocharger (hot side) be removed if the issue pertains to the swirl flaps (cold side)?

I share the same sentiment, which is regrettable, since it is not justifiable to invest £7-£8K on a battery replacement for a vehicle valued at about £8K. This is one of the two primary reasons I opposed adopting electric vehicles nine years ago, since I am now stuck with a 1.5L petrol car.However, it remains operational. I intend to get it diagnosed for clarity, although it is really an absurd scenario that BMW's only solution for one or two defective cells is an exorbitantly priced complete battery replacement. Replacing just the defective cells would incur a little cost.Even if they replaced simply the defective module inside the battery, it may be a cost-effective solution; but, their proposal for a whole battery replacement is too excessive. Welcome to the realm of large enterprises! Thank you.

I appreciate your prompt response and assistance.I will contact the local BMW expert to see whether they can identify the issue; but, I assume that if it pertains to a high voltage battery problem, their options may be somewhat limited. It is amusing because Cedar, the firm I contacted this morning, requires me to transport my vehicle to their location, which is sadly too far.However, they seemed rather favourable for this particular situation. As you said, without a diagnosis, we cannot ascertain the nature of the issue, thus I will attempt to schedule an appointment locally in Scotland next week.

I want your guidance on the most appropriate next action, please. My 1966 model 225XE, with 58,000 miles, has begun to display drivetrain faults. I remember that this issue occurred after a driver's airbag recall last November. My electric mileage has decreased from about 12 to under 1.It appears to achieve a complete charge, and the blue electric range indicates 12 or 13 miles; however, upon commencing driving, within approximately half a mile of standard street driving (not on the motorway), it transitions from electric mode to the petrol engine, resulting in the blue electric range depleting to zero. I am certain that this issue did not exist before my vehicle was serviced at BMW for the airbag recall. However, after consulting with them, they guarantee that the new airbag associated with this recall could not have caused any high voltage problems. I requested any data on the vehicle's condition before to and after the airbag replacement for comparative analysis; however, they informed me that no pre- and post-replacement data exists, since their sole action was to remove and replace the airbag. They said that their actions would not result in any high voltage complications, either inside the batteries or other high voltage components. I own a BMW extended warranty; nevertheless, I was informed that it does not include any battery-related difficulties, which I anticipated, to be fair. May I enquire whether others have had an airbag recall, and may it perhaps correlate with the high voltage concerns I am encountering, or is it really coincidental that both problems began concurrently? Should I proceed with a diagnostic assessment at my own cost (about £200) to ascertain the results? Can somebody provide further choices or recommendations? Is this a common problem for a 225XE Hybrid? Thank you for your assistance! Thank you.

The open circuit voltage does not inherently signify a battery's quality. It is necessary to do a load test.

The engine code for 2014 indicates the transition from F20 to F20 LCI, along with the engine change from N13 to B38.

With a thorough inspection and assessment, it should be evident if the issue is with the gasket or the housing itself. What is the age of the automobile and what kind of engine does it possess?

Typically, the issue lies with the gasket; I have seen that those with a little leak may exacerbate the leakage after a filter replacement. I attribute it to little movement during the cap's removal. That price seemed excessive to me.

Thank you for the information.

I acquired my first MB C220D W204 from the original owner and am very satisfied. The service history is entirely digital; other from visiting a dealer, is there anybody who can assist? Identification WDD2040022A540242.

It is accurate that it has not been driven much, accumulating barely 10,000 km over four years. The garage personnel are generally reliable, yet end customers like us inevitably have some skepticism over their judgment. Reading about various concerns on the internet may indeed be intimidating. I am willing to attempt shifting the tires and wheels to assess the outcome.

Greetings, everyone. Recently, I traveled from Nottingham to Wales for business. As my car's air conditioning was inoperative, I intermittently opened the window to get fresh air. Operated the vehicle at a velocity between 70 and 90. Upon closing the windows, I noticed a buzzing noise that intensified with speed, which I suspected may be attributed to the wheel bearings. The mechanic inspected the vehicle and confirmed that the bearings are functioning properly. However, the rear tires are producing noise, despite having acceptable tread depth, which is attributed to their inferior quality. This pertains to the 2007 W211 E220 model, which has accumulated 180,000 kilometers. Front tires - Pirelli - Cinturato (exceeding 5 years in age, however retaining substantial tread depth) Replace both rear tires - Dynamo (installed in mid-2021, although the vehicle has only been driven 10,000 miles since) - the tread is also highly effective in this regard I detected tire noise according to the road type, but I disregarded it since it was not very bothersome. Recently, the rear shock absorbers were replaced (non-2024), and during a lengthy work-related trip, I noticed a significant amount of humming sounds. I conducted an online search for similar sounds. The rear tires are expected to last at least 40,000 miles; however, mine had worn out after just 10,000 km. The rear shock absorber has also been modified lately. What are your opinions on this noise? Additionally, how can I accurately ascertain which tires are producing the noise? Thank you for your assistance.