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Thank you for your assistance. I apologise; I should have presented the current mirror. Require that aesthetic.

My friend is seeking a mirror. Does anyone possess one?

I visited the local dismantlers, AWSR BMW, and purchased an additional ignition switch. I replaced it with my own, and lo and behold, the ignition indicator illuminated on the dashboard, and the vehicle started immediately. I will analyse the old one to determine the reason of its failure. I contacted with the BMW dealer; the item is available for £130, but delivery from Germany will take one week.

I have tested the ignition switch and can confirm that power is now present in the green wire. It indicates ground only. Upon supplying electricity via the probe, all systems activate, and the ignition indicator on the dashboard illuminates. Could it be a defective ignition switch?

I removed the cowling around the steering wheel, and the ignition housing seems to be in poor condition.

Update acknowledged. I visited Halfords and purchased two brand new batteries identical to those seen in Tim's battery swap video. installed batteries. There is no response; the engine remains unresponsive. The vehicle exhibits no crank; moreover, I neglected to note yesterday that the driver's side window down three-quarters of the way autonomously. I am now unable to shut the window. Do you have any further suggestions? ☹

I will install two new batteries, and that should enough. I will keep you informed.

Greetings, everyone, I need counsel. Today, I attempted to start my automobile, but it is inoperative. There are no dashboard lights illuminated; just the mileage is shown. Upon turning the key to position two, the lights remain unlit, and the temperature gauge flickers, with no further indications. No response, no activity. The vehicle has been stored on a trickle charge for many weeks, and the batteries are functioning OK, registering 12.6 volts. I have inspected all fuses, and they seem to be intact. Inspected the inline fuse in the trunk with a probe; they seem to be intact. Both 200 amp and 80 amp are acceptable. The vehicle was functioning well before, and now it is inoperative. Unable to operate the windows. Any guidance would be much appreciated. Thank you.

I eagerly await your advice and suggestions. Thank you ahead of time

Greetings to everybody, I just slipped a SIM card into the slot of my 2013 car's infotainment system, and all functionalities—calls, data, etc.—operated flawlessly. However, when receiving a call in the vehicle, my phone failed to connect over Bluetooth as it always does. I am now enquiring if I may use my phone's Bluetooth while the SIM card is installed in the vehicle. Does the presence of a SIM card in the automotive system disrupt phone pairing, or is there a method to handle both simultaneously?

I will remove the speakers to inspect the connections; if that proves ineffective, I will extract the radio and interchange the connections from right to left to see whether the issue transfers to the other side.

I apologise; I understand.

Apologies, what is an

Essentially, my primary objective is self-diagnosis, as indicated in my previous discussion. The auto electrician charges 60 euros for an investigation, which I will pursue when I have thoroughly contemplated the issue. The audio from the right side of the front door and speaker is too thin. Initially, I thought the door speaker was malfunctioning. However, if neither is producing low-end frequencies, I suspect it may be an amplifier problem. Is the amplifier's output connected directly to both speakers, or are the dashboard tweeter and door speaker interconnected? The input is sent to the door speaker first and then connected to the tweeter. Additionally, the amplifier.