Patagil

I fail to see why you would be unable to get your seat fixed under warranty at no expense to yourself at any dealership, unless it has been damaged due to overuse. It is impossible to recuperate all the energy used to accelerate the vehicle, since a significant portion of that energy dissipates as heat in the motor, the AC inverter, the battery, and even the wiring. Subsequent losses will occur throughout the regeneration process. I am now retired, but I once worked as an electronics engineer. I often assumed that a sophisticated energy conversion system would achieve around 80% efficiency. Therefore, for bidirectional conversion (acceleration followed by regeneration), I would estimate an efficiency of 64%, calculated as 80% of 80%. Therefore, I concur strongly with the 65% you proposed. In iPedal mode, one does not just remove their foot from the accelerator pedal to prevent excessive braking; instead, one modulates the accelerator position to get the desired speed at the specified point. It requires some practice. In principle, one might equilibrate acceleration and regeneration to effectively coast.

I recommend setting the heater to automatic and adjusting the temperature to your preference. The issue with the seat adjustment lever should be included under the warranty. Give full regen (iPedal) a try; I like it and it does optimize the available regen... seems funny to begin with but quickly becomes natural. Delight in your new automobile.

Additionally, Night View Assist. Suitable for pub top trumps. Does your vehicle own an infrared camera with a display on the dashboard? Negative? Mine has. I believe it is intended for detecting deer at distances above the range of your lights at nighttime. I never encounter darkness sufficient for it to be advantageous; however, I find it beneficial during heavy rain, since it allows for good visibility of cars obscured by spray to the unaided eye.

I’m old-fashioned, still prefer to see a car in person before paying. You can’t always tell from photos what you’re getting.But I have to admit with the way the market going these online car sales are becoming quite normal. If they’ve got a written refund policy and you’re paying into a segregated account, it’s not a bad setup. Just keep all your emails and receipts in case anything goes wrong.

Thank you for the clarity. I was concerned that the clock would have been altered and the mileage manipulated, given the car has a relatively low registered mileage of 75,000, however the interior and bodywork are consistent with this mileage.

I recently purchased a 2014 E Class 220d Cabriolet and saw that the bottom left corner displays a constant kilometre reading, yet the speedometer is marked in miles, and both the trip and mileage counters are in miles. Can the onboard computer be configured to convert the constant readout from kilometres to miles?

It was fundamentally plug-and-play, requiring no soldering or further modifications. The most effective method of learning is to engage actively and experiment. That is how individuals acquire knowledge about automobiles.

I have not yet attempted it. I have a nearly identical device connected, although this one exhibited superior response. All operations proceeded well. I may attempt to connect the old one tomorrow and see if there have been any changes.

I replaced my head unit today to include CarPlay. Since the installation, my car key fob fails to lock or unlock the vehicle, some dashboard lights remain on (including the mileage display), and the centre console I added remains active, even playing music. What may be the issue? It was satisfactory before. I own a 2004 BMW E46 318ci, should that information be relevant.

Regrettably, I misinterpreted the headline; it is not concerning wash/wife after all.

Mine is post-LCI, however it is advisable to locate a complete mirror and extract the components.

Although I would like to avoid it, use de-icer is cumbersome and fails to effectively remove the substance.

The heating element of the passenger side wing mirror on my 2014 LCI F11 seems to have ceased functioning. It seems that my vehicle had an autodimming function; hence, when I requested a price from BMW for mirror replacement, the cost was exorbitant, almost £500. Apparently, you get a full wing mirror, but just the glass component. Is there a method to repair or replace only the heating element? Should I just purchase a non-dimming mirror as a substitute?

A hyperflexible dwarf gynaecologist may be advantageous!

Utilising the appropriate diagnostic equipment, one may reset this. Provided that the fill level remains low, etc. You effectively inform the vehicle about the new DPF and recalibrate the relevant settings accordingly.

In the absence of a JBL-equipped vehicle, the AVN system is responsible for powering the speakers. No external amplifier will be present. Speakers are a cost-effective and straightforward option that you would certainly choose if further equipment is required. An alternative second-hand AVN, not from JBL, might be procured and installed, which may not enhance the performance with the existing speakers. This would eliminate a problem with the device.

By "low end" about the tweeter, I refer to its significant deficiency in mid-range frequencies relative to the tweeter on the other side.

If you have any questions, please enquire.

Indeed, electric vehicles provide an intriguing alternative; yet, in terms of long-term ownership, I am avoiding them owing to the restricted battery guarantees and exorbitant expenses associated with potential failures. The one exception I have seen is Toyota, which offers a guarantee of up to 15 years on their batteries; however, their vehicles are somewhat unexciting.

It is my vehicle, and I understand that vintage automobiles benefit from proper maintenance. I completed the second PTU oil change; the first experience was unsatisfactory, but this time it was much improved. Despite having it for four years, I really like it and cannot identify a better alternative, but the XC90 remains enticing.

In April, I performed three sump dumps on my ASIN 6-speed automatic gearbox with 90,000 miles, and the fluid remained black. Nonetheless, there was a discernible improvement in the brightness and smoothness of the box. This was only a preventive maintenance activity; there were no issues with the box. I let it to sit for a while to enable fluid circulation and performed three further sump dumps this weekend. September. Only during the drainage of the sixth dump was the clear pink fluid clearly visible. I was astonished by the number of attempts required to remove the most of the filth; nonetheless, if you are considering doing this task, prepare for six disposals. I adjusted the fluid level to 53 degrees Celsius. Reset the oil deterioration counter and performed a gearbox reset. There was once again a significant enhancement, making it seem much more like to a new vehicle. Highly beneficial and quite simple once started. It should provide a another 100,000 miles; however, I will likely replace it again in 50,000 miles. Uncertain expression.

No, it is acceptable, my friend. I am completely unaware of the answer, to be honest, and I did not inquire for anything inexpensive either. The advise is just what I needed. I will exchange them.

Greetings, gentlemen. The first image showcases Bridgestone tyres, which were installed on my 330 F31 when I acquired it. Even when the tyres were close to the permissible limit, I never experienced the activation of the traction control light due to a lack of grip. After recently installing a whole set of new tyres, as seen in the second photo, the car's handling has significantly deteriorated. while I accelerate the back end of the vehicle, the traction control light flashes and the car wiggles, even while driving in a straight line. Additionally, the car is able to slide around turns. I would much appreciate any guidance or recommendations.

If the issue reoccurs, carefully inspect the circuit boards within the relays. During the seven years I owned a 500SEL with the same engine, I found it beneficial to examine and potentially repair these circuit boards. In addition to the fuel pump relay, these vehicles also have an idle control relay. However, due to their age, it is advisable to open up all the relays and seek assistance from someone knowledgeable in electronics, such as myself with a degree in Electrical and Electronic Engineering, to perform this task if you are uncertain. Although new relays may be costly, the prolonged exposure of circuit boards to the conditions under a car's hood for 30 or 40 years can cause damage. Re-soldering, on the other hand, is a nearly cost-free solution that can provide significant benefits and avoid future malfunctions. Furthermore, it is important not to overlook basic components such as the fuses. The outdated continental-style fuses, also known as 'torpedo' fuses, commonly used in these cars tend to corrode at the ends. This corrosion can lead to poor electrical connections, even if the fuses themselves do not blow. It is highly recommended to replace all of these fuses, which can be done inexpensively at Halfords. Additionally, it is important to clean the mating surfaces inside the fusebox using a drill bit of suitable size. To avoid any risk of short-circuiting, remember to disconnect the battery before performing this task. Replacing all the fuses in your vehicle with new ones will cost you around ten pounds. This investment is highly recommended for long-term dependability. Make sure to determine the quantity of fuses needed for each colour and rating, since the fuses are color-coded based on their amp rating. You may see a significant improvement in the functionality of various automotive components after investing around an hour of your time and a little amount of money. I personally do this practice with every newly acquired (previously owned) vehicle, and it yields substantial benefits. Replace each fuse individually with one of the same colour and rating, or consult the table included in the fusebox lid for the exact amperage rating of each fuse. It is crucial to ensure that each fuse is replaced with the appropriate rating. Refer to the chart instead than relying on the contents of the fusebox, since a previous individual may have replaced a fuse with one that has an inappropriate value. It is incapable of causing any damage.