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Hello - I own a 2014 W212 E350 and had the windscreen replaced a few years before. The insurers, Mercedes' proprietary insurance sponsored by Markerstudy, declined to install an OEM Mercedes-stamped windscreen, stating they would only do so for vehicles less than 12 months old. I acquired the insurance with the premise that they exclusively use authentic Mercedes components and authorised dealers, which left me quite displeased. The screen was calibrated and installed by auto glass at the Mercedes Brentford main dealership. The wipers were improperly aligned, necessitating a visit to my residence for rectification. In the process of this second repair, they broke the engine cover cowl in the engine bay which i thankfully saw and which, after 5 months, they replaced. I have seen that the screen frosts over inside the vehicle during the cooler nights of the year, leading me to question if the seals were properly installed. Perhaps I was only unfortunate, but if you go for aftermarket components, ensure that you meticulously inspect everything once completion. I trust this will be beneficial.

Have you examined the cold start relay?

The problem with the automobile I purchased was just that, and the sole drawback of the car on the provided link is its distance from my location.

Last year, I purchased a vehicle that was quite identical to the one I am referring to. It had a 64 plate, 60,000 miles on the odometer, a complete service history, and had been owned by two individuals. Unfortunately, the engine was in a state of disrepair. Invested around £5,000 on a used engine and other components, and received around £600 for selling spare parts such as the head, oil pump, and injectors. Ultimately, sold the automobile for £11,350. Also, there is a quick turnaround time of just 4 weeks. It is likely that there is excessive end play in the crankshaft and a damaged piston.

Do you have a hyperlink to that rasa? Last year, I purchased a 220i with a malfunctioning engine and managed to benefit from it.

I am experiencing the same issue with my just purchased 73 plate manual vehicle. Transforms a beautiful automobile into a source of annoyance and frustration. It is self-evident that after making 36 monthly installments, they will be able to reclaim it.

On Sunday afternoon, a group of individuals were intentionally taking their own lives by jumping in front of my automobile. I haven't seen this much in a long time. Varying climates undoubtedly exhibit varying degrees of insect populations. In California, they may be rather rare. After around thirty minutes in Florida and Alabama, the screen may become opaque, hindering visibility. One morning at the Talladega Speedway, I was met by a gate attendant who asked me, "How are you doing today?" Are you experiencing a software glitch or is there an issue with your computer screen? This serves as a vivid representation of the everyday challenges faced by drivers in such areas.

I am unable to recall the most recent occasion when I was required to engage in such task. It seems that they possess mutual access to evidence supporting the existence of No Claims Bonus (NCB), in my opinion.

Preferably San Diego. However, I would be willing to go to Los Angeles in order to join an exclusive driving club.

Greetings, Can you suggest any vehicle clubs or rally clubs in Southern California or groups of drivers that have a passion for driving?

I have consistently used Clear sight in both my previous and current models without exception. I first had a little sense of unfamiliarity upon acquiring it, but quickly adapted to it and now consider it an essential attribute that I would really regret losing if I were to switch to an other brand. No vibrations were seen, as you said, except when the mirror is used in 'normal' mode. Uncertain as to the reason for doing so.

Based on its appearance, the car you are referring to seems to be a first-generation Mini with the Tritec engine, which is considered to be of high quality. The components might potentially consist of: Timing chain guide. The timing chain cover has integrated webbing designed to secure the chain onto the bottom sprocket. The chain became detached when it became slack. What is the issue with the washer? This automobile previously had a malfunctioning chain. If the current situation is satisfactory, then you should be in a state of being acceptable or satisfactory. If not, at least in the UK, there is a large number of first-generation Minis being dismantled, making it inexpensive and simple to get a new engine.

I own a 2-post lift, which makes it convenient for elevating the vehicle and removing the wheels, arch liners, and accessing the underneath. I want to address this matter later today.

Thank you for your response, and it is a wise suggestion to test for a potential leak farther down the line to see whether there is one. It seems like I may need to remove the bumper. Expletive. Laughing out loud

Greetings, individuals. Seeking assistance and guidance... I just acquired my Gen1 v8, purchasing it in March. Prior to picking it up, I had Ricky from @REPerformance install a Quicksilver titanium valved exhaust on it. Affectionate possession. Recently, on my most recent travels, I saw that the valves were not functioning properly. I did not perceive any change in sound while driving, confirming that they were really not operating. Both key fobs are functioning well, as shown by the blue LED on the fobs illuminating and successfully relaying signals to the controller located in the engine bay. I am almost certain that the vehicle will start, since it is a cold start and the valves are open. (Very noisy) and then when the engine speed stabilises at approximately 800rpm everything seems to be okay, but I suspect that the valves are still in the open position. Depressing the button to close them has no result. I have removed the engine bay cover on the right-hand side (RHS) where the controller and solenoid are located. Upon pressing the fob to shut the valves, I can clearly hear a clicking sound, but there is no observable action taking place. The sound is pronounced in the vicinity of the controller and the solenoid. However, I am not really certain. Is the 'click' originating from the controller or the solenoid? They are in close proximity. I have visually inspected the vacuum lines that are visible on the upper side of the engine compartment. However, I have not yet investigated further behind the covers and rear bumper to see the function of the vacuum lines in relation to the exhaust valves. Where do people believe the issue originates? I believe it is necessary for me to remove the back bumper in order to inspect the lines underneath or inside the exhaust system and determine whether there is a problem. However, I would want to seek guidance on the specific aspects I should inspect prior to removing the rear bumper. Any guidance or suggestions would be much appreciated.

Create a comprehensive list of the specific characteristics that you really want and then proceed to compare them with the different specifications available. When making our selection, my wife specifically desired the panoramic roof, and the '4' option was far less expensive than the GTLS model (while still offering most of the features and amenities). I highly suggest the '4' specification! To have a successful negotiation, it is important to communicate your maximum limit to the salesperson and be prepared to disengage from the negotiation if necessary. They may come to the realisation that your offer is the most favourable option available to them. While purchasing our pre-owned 2017 Sportage, the Kia salesperson adamantly refused to engage in price negotiations. Instead, we discussed the trade-in value of our old and worn-out vehicle. It took some time, but eventually their offer became sufficiently generous for us to accept the transaction. Wishing you success!

This is the reason why I consistently detach the front part of them and remove the engine and gearbox, while leaving the subframe in its original position.

Indeed. However, I was curious whether the original poster had symbolically abstained from physically striking oneself in the face as of now.

have you taken the vehicle to a Mercedes-Benz expert for recovery?

There, that wasn't challenging, was it?

It would be appreciated if you could display some etiquette. Best wishes!

Are you seeking assistance and is that the most optimal effort you can make? Incidentally. The current emission standard for vehicles is Euro 5.

Providing information about the specific car and engine type might facilitate assistance from others.

Acquire fresh ABS wheel sensors, since they are susceptible to damage and difficult to extract and repurpose. If you are unable to get the appropriate servicing tools to detach the original front knuckle from its bearing/hub (in order to reuse the knuckle), it is advisable to purchase replacement front knuckles. While I do not officially support this, I must acknowledge that this is a cost-effective alternative. Two front left-hand and right-hand steering knuckles for a Land Rover Range Rover from 2010 to 2012 with a V8 5.0L engine are available for purchase on eBay. During the process of rebuilding the suspension, it would be advisable to also contemplate replacing the axle shafts. Rockauto.com and other aftermarket providers offer a variety of options from different vendors.

It is important to note that although the 2014-2015 Gen 1 V10 vehicles are equipped with S-Tronic, they do not provide the same level of performance as the Gen 2 Plus models, even when comparing Gen 1 Plus to Gen 2 Plus. If performance is a priority for you, it is advisable to consider and compare both options by test driving them, since the Gen 2 model is much faster. However, I must express my admiration for the Gen 1 Plus model since it was a superb vehicle and visually more appealing than the Gen 2 (based on my own perspective).