Radiantecon

I acknowledge your concern regarding high mileage vehicles. Considering that you are examining 15-year-old vehicles, I believe that 100,000 miles is not excessively high, averaging approximately 10,000 miles per year. The general condition of the vehicle is crucial. A comprehensive service history is vital, ideally accompanied by a limited number of prior owners. If it includes it and all the documentation regarding replaced parts, it indicates that it has been well maintained. Best of luck!

Thank you! I will certainly refrain from using those Chinese tires. I do not want conventional 'tank slappers'!

I am now using Bridgestone tires on my 2016 SLK 300 AMG Sport. They are satisfactory. Relatively quiet and fairly comfy. Nonetheless, I remain unconvinced about their grip levels, especially under wet or slippery road conditions. I recently had a failure of the NSF wheel speed sensor, which disabled the ABS, stability control, and many other unexpected functions, including an alert to reduce speed when I was parked and attempting to raise the roof. Had to deactivate the engine, re-engage the ignition and raise the roof using the batteries. Following a period of rainfall, I exited a roundabout at 3 o'clock, exhibiting a degree of overzealousness with the accelerator. An spectacular 'tank slapper' occurred, which I barely managed to control. No. 2 Son (GR Yaris) advocates for Michelin Pilot Sports; nonetheless, what suggestions do you have for optimising traction? As a lifetime automotive enthusiast, I now drive seldom, averaging around 5,000 to 6,000 miles annually. All feedback is appreciated.

The back cable seems OK; however, the bolted connection inside the battery compartment was rather soiled, which I have since cleaned. The engine bay side seems acceptable. Is there a method to test the cable for potential faults?

Measured from the positive terminal to the engine bay grounding point on the left side. I believe a weak connection between the rear battery and the engine compartment. I also investigated potential grounding issues but only examined the engine to chassis ground strap owing to the onset of darkness and cold weather.

It may be prudent to include the codes retrieved from the vehicle; I sense that they are likely irrelevant and only indicative of improper power distribution to the automobile. | Identifier | Current Status | Detailed Description |-------------------------------------------------------------| | 1A2002 | Intermittent | Electric fan activation: Short circuit to ground | | 1A2004 | Intermittent | Electric fan activation: Open circuit | | 1A200D | Intermittent | Electric fan function: Communication fault | | CD8E12 | Intermittent | LIN message: Alternator missing | | 0DA451 | Intermittent | No message received (actual steering torque driver actuator 10.0.0) | I conducted a physical test of the electric fan at full AC load. The fan operated well, and I noted that the fan activation percentage on the reader fluctuated in line with the readings.

Greetings everyone, Recently had an issue with the car failing to start, initially seen a few weeks ago. Due to my lack of initiative, I assumed the battery was not retaining charge and changed it, resulting in a £200 error. After extricating myself from bed in the evening to do some diagnostics, I believe I have identified a power supply problem. Here is a summary of the symptoms I am experiencing. The car began the other day, remained idle overnight, and successfully started in the morning. After a brief drive, it failed to start five minutes after being turned off, with the battery reading 12.45 volts. The vehicle begins operation with support from an auxiliary battery via the front jump terminals. The alternator measures 14.5 volts. Current drain when the vehicle is off (not in sleep mode). 70 milliamperes The push-to-start mechanism produces an audible relay click. The IBS sensor has been removed, still the engine fails to start. The voltage measurements taken under load and straight from the battery in the trunk yielded the following results: 12.6 volts while turned off, 12.5 volts with ignition on, and 12.2 volts when cranking. When measured from the front jump ports: 11.6V with ignition on, 0.4V while cranking. Relocating the battery from the rear compartment to the engine block and trying to initiate the start using jumper cables produced a repeating clicking sound reminiscent of a machine cannon. I am led to assume that the positive wire from the battery to the engine compartment is defective. Conversely, I believe that the battery connected to the front jumps should have started the automobile. Any recommendations or additional aspects to evaluate would be highly appreciated. I like a challenging problem, but this one is overwhelming me.

My 7 Series exhibited similar behaviour when one of the level sensors on the rear suspension arm was inverted, resulting in an incorrect height reading and the vehicle attempting to compensate. The adjustment took five minutes to elevate the back and reposition the level sensor linkage in the opposite direction. I trust it is something as straightforward as this for you.

What, no Basil jokes being presented?Wink

I cannot speak on the ethics of your local garage; but, regular brake strip inspections and servicing for brake life are now obsolete. If they emit unusual sounds or exhibit abnormal behaviour, they need care. Rear disc brakes exhibit a degree of fragility and are susceptible to partial seizure if not regularly maintained. This will result in premature and irregular wear, contingent upon the type of the seizure. Mileage is inconsequential, since infrequent usage may potentially exacerbate problems.

No information is available about an advised restriction on brake pads. Perhaps if he is aware that it is being taken in for servicing, the garage will identify them? Ultimately, some individuals will complain if they get advice. Believing they are only seeking employment.

https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/1-brakes#section-1-2-1

It is possible that they have not been completely released. A comprehensive brake service may be necessary.

A minimum of one cap. If yours is absent, you must a replacement nonetheless. I possess no knowledge about the AL tanks, save from the fact that they are available for purchase. I have never used one.

The cap should remain secured. It alleviates pressure at around 21-22 psi. It should not displace the threads on the bottle. Purchase an authentic Mini brand reservoir cover and see whether it continues to overflow. Coolant systems need appropriate pressure; otherwise, they may vaporise at temperatures lower than specified.