Bedelon

All AJ engines use Havoline XLC (Dexcool) coolant.

Do you see the prominent 110 kPa marking on your cap?Indeed, the system consistently experiences pressure upon warm-up, resulting in frequent cracking of expansion tanks. You resorted to extreme measures by applying head gasket sealer.Offer a prayer for your heater core. Remove all fluids, including the block drain cap, at this stage.

This garage's assertion that you own front lowering links is entirely incorrect. The front suspension is lowered using either distinct springs or adjustable coilover springs. Did this garage install the unequal lowering springs on the front? If such is the case, I would propose that they have not been installed properly. These should be the installed springs. Article - H & R As previously said, adjusting the rear suspension accurately takes time; nevertheless, transitioning from sport to comfort and back to sport should restore the vehicle to its prior setting. This organisation seems to lack direction, to be frank. They are undoubtedly unaware that the front suspension lacks lowering links. The airmatic is only located in the back. I recommend avoiding this garage, minimising your losses, and scheduling a visit to Steve; a distance of 40 miles is manageable for good vehicle setup.

If the rear has not lowered, more adjustments are necessary. If I recall correctly, the longer the connection, the lower it descends. Calibration requires a considerable amount of time to get the accurate drop.

It is not advisable to pursue if you already own the decreasing connections, in my opinion. Additionally, £70 versus £213

https://avantgarde-automotive.co.uk/

Automotive in Clevedon would be an excellent option for a local Mercedes expert.

Consult realoem.com to ascertain BMW's specifications, then proceed with cross-referencing.

That seems rather unfavourable; nonetheless, I find it difficult to accept that only tightening the sump bolts could result in such an outcome, regardless of the degree of tightness applied. I am not fond of coincidences; yet, it seems to be one to me. However, without a detailed examination and precise identification of the noise's source, it might be attributed to other factors.

https://bmwpasoft.com/

What is PAsoft? PASoft is an economical, fundamental, and user-friendly OBD2 reader designed for older BMW vehicles. The package includes the gadget, a cable, and a CD with the software. It is also available for internet download. It is simple to install and start, similar to any other MS Windows program. This will enable you to read and erase error codes, modify numerous settings inside each module, and access additional functionalities, including the ability to monitor live data. It is essential for every owner of a vintage BMW.

They are quite simple to modify. They are a little device located under the seat that informs the computer of occupant presence, hence determining the activation of the corresponding airbags in the case of a collision. Should the signal be disrupted for any reason, it will manifest as an error inside the airbag module.

I sought to update from halogen to xenon headlights, as the high beams were nonfunctional with halogens; hence, I anticipated that xenons would rectify the problem.

I have previously encountered the same problem with the headlights; they were halogen, but I sought to upgrade to xenon. Even with the halogens, I was unable to utilise the high beams, and I do not have access to MB Star.

The headlights and xenon bulbs are completely new; I doubt the issue lies with the bulbs, but I will certainly inspect the wiring.

Greetings to everybody, I consistently receive notifications regarding my headlights; they function properly, although the high beams are inoperative. The indicator on the dashboard illuminates correctly when I engage the lever, but the headlights do not activate. Do you have any insights into the cause?

I must admit that I seldom review the diagnostic materials, among others. We just operate the vehicle from point A to point B instead of doing an analysis. Upon acquiring the Soul about four years ago, we immediately received caution notifications regarding the 12V system. Charged the 12V battery thoroughly, according to proper protocols, and consistently observed a state of "okay." Prior to transfer, I measured the 12V with a meter, and it seemed to be in optimal condition and completely charged. I may eventually install the BM2 that I purchased three years ago onto the EV3, perhaps after I organise the garage, which has been pending for almost a decade.

I have upgraded Connect on iOS and still see 12V under Status > Others.

If just the motors are being replaced, they should be removable with the mirror in place and only need glass removal.

The pipe was detached from the pump; there was no change in the noise, and the pump seemed to be functioning well. Observe that if the vehicle is still for around 15 minutes, the noise ceases and does not return upon revving the engine. Returns only after around 10 minutes of driving.

The noise ceases at startup and only reemerges after a substantial drive; yet, I have replaced the pulleys, so I am very certain they are functioning well. The phone detected a louder noise coming from the top left of the engine, suspecting it may be related to the vacuum pump or the crankcase breather (which was changed around two years ago with a vortex type), however it is unclear how either component could produce that sound. I have a lengthy journey to the airport for the holidays next weekend, so I prefer not to be stranded on the roadside with a vehicle full of discontented faces.

Greetings The M57 engine in my E39 touring is producing an unusual noise, like a high-pitched metallic ringing or screaming, emanating from the vicinity of the vacuum pump, and it is rather loud. It manifests post-warm-up and varies with engine RPM. When I cease engine operation and then resume, the issue disappears; but, after driving for a while, it may reoccur, albeit not consistently. I have replaced the serpentine belt pulleys and detached the belt from the AC compressor to eliminate that possibility; it is unequivocally not a belt scream, and there is no contact or obstruction present. I replaced the oil filter, since one individual on YouTube resolved a similar problem using that method. The turbo is functioning well, and noise is present at idling. Any guidance would be welcomed, thank you.

Manipulating emissions is unacceptable here...

Is it possible to incorrectly connect the low voltage coil connections? Question to the original poster (OP): Are the replacement components being used as part of the process of recommissioning the equipment after it was not in use, or are they being used to address a problem with the equipment not starting?