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Darthilli

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  1. I conducted a vacuum smoke test, and everything seems OK; however, it only generates 1 bar of pressure smoke. Upon reviewing the log, I saw that at around 2.2k RPM, the real boost aligns with the intended value. Prior to this, at around 1.7k RPM, the specified boost is approximately 1 bar, but the actual boost ranges from 0.5 to 0.6 bar.
  2. No, we are purchasing her other vehicle, and I will retain the Mini for me, but I want to repair this. At the very least, I will attempt to do so.
  3. Greetings, I acquired it in this condition almost four years ago; nonetheless, my wife was the one using the vehicle. Upon purchase, I opted for carbon cleaning. The technician saw that the EGR had been blanked off with a gasket, indicating it had been programmed out prior to my acquisition. Additionally, when replacing the timing chain and inspecting the turbo, we discovered that the DPF was clogged, therefore it was subsequently removed. However, the vehicle exhibits very low torque until reaching 2,000 RPM. I attempted to restore the vehicle to its normal settings, and then programmed off the DPF and EGR, but this did not provide any improvement.
  4. Hello, I am experiencing an issue with Mini; maybe someone might provide a solution. I own a Mini Countryman 2.0d N47, which lacks sufficient torque until around 2,200 RPM. The real boost is much lower than the quoted value. That is likely the explanation. However, the primary issue is the absence of mistakes. DPF removed, EGR also eliminated and reprogrammed accordingly. Perhaps someone might recommend where to search. While replacing the chain, the technician inspected the turbo and confirmed it was functioning properly. However, it exhibits sluggish acceleration. Inspected the mass airflow sensor, performed cleaning, tested other sensors without success, and conducted a leak test, which also yielded no results. almost devoid of responses. Thank you.
  5. I am not aware of that. What is the reason for your inquiry? How would I ascertain whether there was?
  6. The AdBlue is under six months old. It is likely advisable to persist in driving until it reactivates.
  7. My EML illuminated when I was driving. I own a 2018 C220D saloon. Approximately 90,000 miles. It was taken to a mechanic where a diagnostic examination revealed a NOC sensor code. The EML has been deactivated and is no longer visible. Is this prevalent? Is it possible that the NOC sensor has an intermittent fault?
  8. Indeed, you may disable the 'Auto Install' feature for updates; nevertheless, the system will continue to notify you when updates are accessible.
  9. I’d still be cautious. If something’s way cheaper than normal, there’s usually a reason for it. There are loads of fake companies out there just make sure they’ll let you view the car in person, that’s the best test of whether they’re genuine or not.
  10. Myself and others have already elucidated the actions available to you.
  11. The immobiliser circuit is distinctive. A "new" key fob will lack the immobiliser code.
  12. The infrared sensor is not included in the ignition/immobiliser system.
  13. Several years ago, I encountered a similar issue; upon detaching the PCB from the fob, I observed that the IR sensor had partially detached from the board. I re-soldered it, and the problem was resolved. If your component is intact, you can consider enlisting someone skilled to perform the same repair. Keys from authorised dealers are costly; I have replaced keys for my children's vehicles using mobile automotive locksmiths, but I have not done so with Mercedes keys.
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