CrownChikk

Understood - that aligns with the specific location (horizontally in the centre of the pad) where a fracture is beginning to appear. Are there any issues with installing a new pad/airbag, or is it a straightforward plug-and-play process following the directions in RAVE? Uncertain whether installing a replacement would cause any problems or difficulties.

Observed that the central pad/SRS is fractured or has cosmetic damage. I have a new leather-wrapped steering wheel and I am now evaluating my choices for the centre pad. Wondering whether covering the centre with leather would be effective - it shouldn't affect the SRS/airbag function as long as it remains on the pad. Has anybody encountered this before? Is my only alternative to locate a new SRS/center pad from another soft dash or disco 1? Thank you!

To access the trunk/cargo space, stand behind the back tyre of the vehicle and kick just behind where the mud flap is located. Give it a kick and wait for 1 second, it often opens. Repeatedly kicking instead of kicking once will result in the process failing.

STAR diagnosis is really necessary. Bring it to a reputable and unbiased expert. It is most likely that the issue is not due to either the battery or the alternator.

The following information was retrieved by Google: https://qsautorepair.com/why-does-my-mercedes-say-stop-vehicle-leave-engine-running/#:~:text=When driving a Mercedes%2C you,with the engine or transmission.

Which engine is included in your "2016 Mercedes C Class"? The alert may not be associated with the 12v battery. Additionally, it is advisable to subject the automobile to a diagnostic scan using either STAR or iCarsoft tools to accurately determine the origin of the problem.

https://www.topgear.com/car-news/electric/mercedes-dropping-eq-named-cars-and-super-streamlined-styling

Three-year-old automobiles may have reliability problems. Although I cannot afford to purchase one, I prefer to acquire a car that has been well tested and shown to be reliable. Consider returning the item to the original seller and exchanging it for another, as a humorous suggestion.

My first hypothesis would be a deteriorating High-Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP). The device will not operate at such a low pressure. If one of the High-Pressure Fuel Pumps (HPFPs) is malfunctioning, I recommend replacing both of them. However, in order to prevent randomly replacing components, it is advisable to examine the issue more closely. Another possible reason might be a malfunctioning injector, but in such cases, there would typically be some noticeable emission of petrol from the exhaust.

I have enlarged the holes after first cutting a smaller one. I enlarge the hole in a piece of wood or plastic to the necessary size and then fasten it securely. I then use it as a guide without the central drill inserted.

I appreciate the ingenious concept. 👍 Indeed, I received a recommendation from another member to engage in that activity. It is logical. I believe that my battery may need replacement in the near future, therefore to be honest, it is not a significant issue to remove it. I have lubricated the wiper spindles. For your information, it seems to be a 100mm soil pipe blanking cap. 🤣

Thank you Barringer, I will examine it!

Afterward, I dedicated the remaining part of the day to thoroughly cleaning the area under the hood.

The automobile has accumulated a mileage of 34,000 kilometres. As a spyder, I assumed that the air conditioning and heating would not be used often. Nevertheless, I was astounded by the dire need for their replacement.

I discovered that the only method of inserting them was by applying a forceful pull on the loom, causing it to disengage from its original position beneath the housing. It was effortlessly easy. Audi charges a fee of £400 in the United Kingdom for this service. I see the reason why finding it amusing 🤣🤣

Finally, during my attempt to replace the pollen filters, I encountered a delay in realising that Audi had intentionally positioned the dense wire harness beneath the pollen filter housing.

Regarding the speaker screws, it is really convenient to have them located in such a favourable position. Positioned snugly beneath the windscreen wiper reservoir.

Thank to everybody, really the wiper arms were somewhat challenging. I using a puller to extract the middle wiper arm... However, the puller tool was unable to fit under the trim on the side. A puller equipped with two "pincher" arms on each side is clearly necessary. The one I purchased just included a slot located at the bottom. Subsequently, I used a generous quantity of release oil and a substantial degree of oscillation. The automobile, which is approaching a decade in age, has annual maintenance at Audi. However, I must emphasise that the wiper arms have been untouched for a significant duration of time. They were firmly stuck and there was no indication of any lubrication present? I used silicone grease throughout the reinstallation process. Does Audi need to carefully remove the trim in order to inspect the braking fluid?

I have started the process of disassembling the decorative moulding in the trunk. I am now anticipating the delivery of a Windscreen wiper puller, which is scheduled to come tomorrow. Once the trim is removed, are they readily accessible? Concerning the glovebox trim, there were no screws present in the glovebox of my 2014 Spyder that needed to be removed. Yet another excerpt from below. Peculiar. Do you believe the reason is due to it being a cosmetic procedure to enhance one's appearance?

It seems like it is fastened from the rear. Profound delight 🤣

Alright, I have made progress up to this point. I will thereafter publish a selection of photographs. Nevertheless, kindly refrain from informing me that the speaker is affixed to the rear of the vehicle via the trunk or bonnet. I am unable to locate any nuts or screws on this side. This is obstructing the process of replacing the filters. I am completely unaware of the location of the parking sensor buzzer. Correction: I have located the buzzer. The component is positioned high above, located below the fresh air vent ducting for the passengers.

Greetings everyone, I had anticipated making more progress than what has been achieved so far. The user's text consists of a laughing face emoji. I have perused the available threads on the removal of the trim behind the glovebox, however it seems that the process may vary significantly for the Gen 1 facelift model. There is no screw that has to be removed from the side trim, and there are no screws present in the glovebox. I have removed all the screws below and can lower the trim at the rear by around 3-4 inches. However, I have encountered at least 2-3 clips that are producing a loud and unpleasant sound when pulled farther. Assistance in any kind would be very appreciated. I need to replace the parking sensor buzzer and have decided to concurrently replace the pollen filters.

I just searched for my Kuga and found that it is displayed as "efb," but "AGM" is not there. Is AGM exclusive to Mercedes vehicles?

I am uncertain as to the source of your information, to be honest. The 2004 e320 model was equipped with AGM as a standard feature, whereas stop-start technology was not yet available at that time. The primary focus is on the pace at which the charge is delivered and the ability to retain the charge, rather than the start-stop mechanism. The "stop start" feature is just a utilitarian choice. Many batteries now available are labelled as 'stop start compatible', indicating that they may be used interchangeably. Is efb a recent innovation?

The vehicle has been hauled in, with a tow hook connected to the front, and it is now without any keys. I will decline that opportunity.