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I installed a Bentley Grilles C63 type grille on my 204 model. The craftsmanship is excellent, however like to many copies on the market, it is only compatible with a normal 204 and not a C63.

The process of lowering to access height should occur well in advance of his departure from the vehicle.

My device exhibits the same behaviour. I surmised that it may just possess the characteristic of self-leveling, but I am uncertain.

I have not yet had the opportunity to test the Map update. My son placed his tablet scanner on the Beemer and it indicated that the Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) was around 45 percent obstructed. He was going to do a regeneration process on my behalf. However, I believe there could be one or two sensors that are associated with the DPF regeneration process. I may need to undergo a procedure to have it extracted and thoroughly cleansed. Unless there is an other method of accomplishing it. Apologies, I have never had a BMW with a diesel engine of this particular size and level of intricacy before.

Thank you. I will attempt it. 👍👍

Greetings Purchased one of these recently. I am now familiarising myself with the dimensions of the object and attempting to understand the functionality of all the control mechanisms. Thus far, there have been no issues. It seems that the previous owner took good care of it. The wife is apprehensive about driving it due to its large size. I have clarified that the vehicle is equipped with front and rear parking sensors, as well as a reversing camera. Additionally, it is a 2010 model that has a satellite navigation system and a sport mode with paddle shift capabilities. I was perusing the command screen and uncertain whether it necessitates an update. Is it advisable to proceed with the update or should I maintain the current state? I believe the maps are from the year 2012. Is it necessary to update them using a disc or can I use a USB drive? Anticipating a long-term ownership due to its exceptional driving performance and the appealing spaciousness in the rear. Thank you.

Yes, they do. Firstly, what other creature would exhibit such behaviour in a residential setting? Furthermore, how could it possess the intelligence to avoid stepping on the adhesive trap itself?

These are unpleasant objects where you may discover either a dead mouse that died from starvation or the limbs it gnawed off in order to flee. If the entity is still in a state of being alive, then it is necessary to terminate its existence. The only remaining alternative is that the trap has been removed by the rodent, which stopped just before fully stepping across it and instead carried it away to carry out its limb amputation in a more secluded location.

What are the advantages of Inconel over titanium? If I were to replace my titanium exhaust with an Inconel one, what noticeable changes would I experience?

However, I have made the necessary preparations to transfer it to the Stealers next week. I was unable to locate anybody within a 30-mile radius that I could trust to possess the appropriate diagnostic software. I believed that I could have a higher likelihood of successfully making a goodwill claim if it turns out that the problem is a longstanding issue or an inherent vulnerability. They have assured me that they would promptly conduct a diagnosis, therefore I will provide an update once I get the results. Fingers crossed. 🤞

I disengaged the battery and let it to remain unconnected for the duration of the night. The test conducted this morning indicates that the battery is now at 86% charge, with a voltage reading of 12.5 volts. Based on the results of the overnight battery test, it is evident that there is a substantial power drain in the automobile, indicating that something is using a big amount of power from the battery. I now have a strong suspicion that the MHEV components are responsible. Considering the scarcity of independent individuals who are now informed and well educated, it is likely advisable to reluctantly accept the situation and approach the authorised dealers. Undoubtedly, it will need many weeks for them to address the matter, hence I may be unable to offer any input for an extended period. Nevertheless, I anticipate receiving a substantial invoice.

That seems to be a promising investment. I have been examining recalls and other suggested service changes for my vehicle. I saw a document labelled N861, which is dated March 2024 and may be pertinent to my current circumstances. A problem has been discovered where the 48V Mild Hybrid Electric Vehicle (MHEV) battery goes into an offline mode and stops communicating or functioning properly. This may lead to the activation of the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL), the inability to use the start/stop function, and a lack of communication during diagnostic sessions. An upgrade to the Battery Energy Control Module (BECM) software is necessary. I will only ascertain the accurate diagnosis after it is fully evaluated. At this point, my only dilemma is whether to reluctantly accept the situation and bring it to the authorised dealership or seek out a reputable independent mechanic specialising in hybrid vehicles.

The suggestion that it was impossible to charge the battery while it was in the automobile seemed peculiar. In addition, they said that the crucial factor was the charge voltage, but they couldn't recall the specific maximum voltage. Based on my current understanding, it seems that their intention was to prevent me from making a costly error about the voltage. My CTEK charger operates at a voltage of 14.4v on the normal setting and 14.7v on the AGM option. Regardless, I have made the decision not to take the risk. If I want to recharge it, I will first detach both connections. My next course of action is to observe the daily decrease in charge when the negative connection is removed. In this manner, I will get a more accurate understanding of the current state of the battery's overall condition.

I own a recovery mode on my CTEK device, which I might attempt to use. Is it permissible to charge the battery while the automobile is in recovery mode? Extracting it is such a cumbersome process that I am reluctant to pursue that option unless it is absolutely necessary. Can the task be accomplished simply by disconnecting the battery's earth? I contemplated purchasing a new battery and I acknowledge your perspective on the expense of diagnostic time. I lack the availability of an additional one. I contemplated the idea of intentionally disconnecting the earth for a duration of 24 hours to investigate if there would be a noticeable decrease in electrical charge in the absence of any connections. Latest information... After locating a willing transporter, I just returned to the independent LR garage to confirm their readiness to accept the vehicle as scheduled for next week. After researching the automobile, they determined that it is a moderate hybrid. Due to insurance reasons, they decided not to work on it. Upon reminding them that they had serviced it a mere 3 months earlier, they expressed regret, stating that they would not have done so if they had been aware of the circumstances. Essentially, I am no longer a patron of their services. During my presence, they consulted the wiring schematics and demonstrated the location of the lithium battery under the floor. That is likely the reason why I have been perceiving the operation of the fan located under the passenger seat. The cost of a new battery is £800 or more, while a new controller is £500 or more. Additionally, they advised against charging the battery while it is still inside the automobile. It has the potential to cause harm to certain components. Fortunately, I have not done it. Ultimately, they advised me to either return to the dealership or seek out an independent hybrid expert. I am now experiencing profound feelings of sadness and despair.😔 Upon more reflection, I am increasingly certain that this is a preexisting problem that was not adequately recognised at the battery replacement that occurred a year ago.

Regardless, I proceeded to purchase a Haynes Manual in order to see whether there were any straightforward diagnostic techniques I might adhere to. The superior one you provided the link to will be my first point of contact. SOH stands for State of Health. The algorithm calculates the result based on the battery readings obtained from the tester. However, because the battery in question is not a lithium battery, I am uncertain about its level of accuracy. After fully charging and allowing it to rest for 15 minutes, my subsequent measurements were as follows: 13.17 volts, 805 cold cranking amps (CCA), and a resistance of 3.28 milliohms. I charged it like an AGM battery using the higher voltage * sign on my old C-TEK 5.0 charger. Indeed, you are correct in stating that the battery poses a perplexing challenge. A year ago, I brought it to the authorised dealership since the automatic tailboard was not functioning. The battery was identified as defective and subsequently replaced. I inquired about the rapid depletion of a battery that was just three years old, and they dismissed my concerns with a feeble explanation that the automobile had a high power consumption and that dead batteries were not uncommon. At that moment, I believed that I had received a defective item. Curiously, prior to the occurrence of these new error messages, I had the identical problem with the tailboard. I surmised that the issue was likely due to a depleted battery, and hence believed that a substantial drive would resolve the problem. It failed to do so. I have already revisited the dealership to inquire about the warranty coverage for the battery. I was informed that the battery warranty coincided with the expiration of the automobile warranty, resulting in a guarantee period of just a few weeks. When I inquired about the cost of transporting the car to their workshop, they informed me that I would be responsible for arranging the transportation myself. Very helpful. After 24 hours of reinstalling the battery in the automobile, I have conducted another test on it. I have only engaged the ignition and attempted to start the vehicle, but it did not activate. Essentially, there is little power use, with the exception of activating the alarm overnight and sometimes unlocking the door. I have isolated the ground connection and conducted three separate measurements just on the battery. The mean values obtained were 12.43 volts, 763 cold cranking amps (CCA), 3.46 milliohms, with a state of health of 88% and a charge level of 79%. The last one is the one that is perplexing. The charge has decreased by 21% during a 24-hour period. That is unquestionably abnormal. One detail I failed to mention before is that on April 2nd, I took my vehicle to the dealership for the security update recall. They refused to disclose the specifics of their actions, just stating that it included a software update. Given prior knowledge of occasional failures of the security system to enter sleep mode, I am curious whether the update may have been somehow compromised.

Thank you for your response, RosaStyle Prior to this, I was unfamiliar with BISG, hence I conducted an online search to acquaint myself with the latest information. Regrettably, I do not own a workshop manual. To be honest, the most recent ones I had were for the Ford Cortina Mk 3 and Fiat 132 Twin Cam, which were used during the construction of my Wildcat kit car in the early 1990s. Consequently, I am unaware of the precise location of the fuse box. I found it peculiar that several other postings implied the existence of a sub-woofer cooling fan under the passenger seat that may potentially have a problem. Your explanation is much more beneficial. I believe it would be beneficial to provide the detailed analysis report provided by the AA. The patrol team discovered the following defect code(s):The system is an engine control system with the model 9M4 and it is designed for diesel engines. The specific model of the engine control system is MEDC 17.9-3. Status: p0087 - Fuel pressure system / system pressure. Error Message: Signal below anticipated levels. Historical error. Status: U0080 - The FlexRay data bus. Error Message: The calculated value is wrong. The error occurs intermittently. Status code p05F8 indicates a malfunction in the AdBlue heating control system. Error Message: There is an open circuit. The error occurs randomly and unpredictably. Status: p05ED - AdBlue heating control. Error Message: Voltage is below the specified threshold. The error occurs intermittently. Status: p2453 - Sensor for measuring the differential pressure across the particulate filter. Error Message: Signal malfunctioning. Historical error. Status: U0402 - CAN message: Transmission control unit. Error Message: Signal plausibility is not satisfactory. An occurrence or defect that is related to the past. The AA technician said that the Electronic Control Unit (ECU) was not establishing communication with the Controller Area Network (CAN) bus. He saw it as quite peculiar. I conducted a test on the battery by installing it in the vehicle the day after bringing it home. During that period, the displayed state of charge was around 59%. I found it peculiar since the AA had checked it and confirmed its excellent condition at the roadside. They attempted to jump start the vehicle, but it was unsuccessful. After removing the battery from the automobile and testing it a day later, the state of charge (SOC) was found to be 48%. That seems to be a significant decrease. The process of fully charging took a duration of 8 hours. After reinstalling the battery in the automobile, I am able to activate the ignition. Subsequently, I see the following cautionary messages shown on the dashboard: The amber engine fault indicator is shown and the ATPC system has been halted. The functionality of the Forward Alert system has been diminished, and it is now only capable of detecting vehicles. It is OK to drive, but care should be used. Stability control is currently unavailable. It is permissible to drive while exercising care. Autonomous emergency braking is not yet accessible. Upon applying pressure on the brake pedal and activating the starting, no response is seen, and all the indicators on the dashboard vanish, with just the parking brake sign remaining. I would want to attempt the removal of certain fuses. Could you kindly direct me to the location of the fuse box? Incidentally, I conducted a continuity test on all of the fuses located in the plastic box situated on the positive battery terminal. No errors or issues were discovered. In addition, I inspected the 5 earth bolts located on the chassis underneath the battery to ensure they were securely fastened. I intend to get a workshop handbook. Meanwhile, I would much appreciate any more ideas. The local independent dealership questioned me extensively about the car being a hybrid, as they do not often deal with hybrid vehicles. Therefore, I will need to verify whether they are still ready to accept it before I arrange and pay for a transporter to deliver it to their location. I am beginning to question if hiring a mobile auto electrician would be a more advantageous choice.

Greetings, everyone. The 2020 Evoque D180 HSE R-Dynamic has been driven for 20,000 kilometres. I am a complete novice, since I have never been a member of any internet forum before. My apologies if I mistakenly publish in the incorrect location, but I am certain that I will get familiar with the correct procedure. I purchased my Evoque from an authorised dealer during the period of restricted movement, also known as lockdown. Over the last three years or more, I have generally been really satisfied with its performance. The vehicle has required the replacement of two rear lights owing to water infiltration, as well as a new battery, both of which were covered under warranty. Apart from these issues, the vehicle has performed well. Up to the previous week. During a shopping trip, I saw many non-critical warning lights on the dashboard while driving. These warning lights included ATPC, Forward Alert, and Autonomous braking. Warnings indicated that it was permissible to drive, but with the need to exercise care. In addition, there is a prominent white noise, similar to the sound produced by a fan, emanating from behind the passenger seat. Furthermore, the rear doors are not functioning properly, and the electric tailboard is also non-operational. Upon parking the vehicle, it failed to restart. There is no starting motor, no clicking sound indicating engagement, and no activity whatsoever. The dashboard illuminated briefly before dimming to darkness. The AA technician was unable to resolve the issue due to several fault codes that could not be cleared. Consequently, I had to be transported back home in an AA relay truck. Subsequently, I removed the battery, which is one year old, and proceeded to charge and test it, resulting in a state of health (SOH) and charge level of 100%. I then reinstalled the battery, but the issue persisted. My next course of action is to transfer it to my local Land Rover independent mechanic. However, I would want to inquire if anybody has had a similar issue or has any insights that might help pinpoint the cause of the problem. Apologies for seeking assistance in my first post. Kindly guide me to the appropriate section of the forum if necessary. Greetings

I agree to the wager, but, I request that the beverage in question be a cider. We have previously examined it, and there is no need for any friction. The automobile is equipped with a normal height spring kit, without any additional lift. I will provide you with the address to which you should send the cider. Thank you for your opinion. However, I actually wish that the solution was as straightforward as you suggest. If the issue persists even after fully releasing the throttle, it indicates that the problem is not related to the throttle itself. This phenomenon is confined to a very restricted and precise region of the throttle. Appears to be harmonious. We attempted to remove the harmonic damper on the front axle in order to observe any potential effects, but, no changes were seen. The client has completely altered their position; they now need the replacement of the front axle with a proper one and the assurance that both flanges are perfectly aligned. In addition, we will replace the front drive shaft since it had clearly been tampered with before we began working on it. Once the appropriate axle is delivered and we rearrange everything accordingly, we will observe the outcome. The automobile was severely damaged by another business. Furthermore, each mating surface was first coated with primer and paint before being sealed with silicone. Last year, when it was first received, we rebuilt the engine and replaced both axles, in addition to doing many other tasks. In this round, the gearbox, torque converter, and Ashcroft transfer case were rebuilt and installed. Essentially, it is a thoroughly updated powerplant.

This noise was evident both before to and subsequent to the repair of the transfer case and the rebuild of the gearbox. Fortunately, these tasks were already planned, independent of the disturbance. It is only frustrating that we are struggling to locate the source of the noise. During today's examination, we saw that the left hub has a camber of 1° inward (89°), whereas the right hub is perfectly square at 90°. Given that the axle is not original to the automobile, it is plausible that something may be bent. Regrettably, the client is really angry over the prolonged duration of the noise diagnosis and seems to just want the return of his vehicle. Therefore, we will proceed to fasten all the components together and release it. If he comes back and allows us further time to thoroughly examine it, we will focus on the perpendicularity of the axle/flange and remove the differentials to check them. I would want to express my gratitude to all those who sent a response. Your feedback has been much valued.

I verified it today, but I will reconfirm it tomorrow when extracting the differential. It is peculiar that we have inspected the chassis to body fasteners to ensure they are securely fastened. The sound is incomprehensible. As previously said, when I increase my speed to around 90 kilometres per hour and then reduce it to maintain a speed of 90 kilometres per hour, the noise will begin and persist until I either accelerate or decelerate. The noise diminishes as I release the pressure, and it also disappears when I increase the speed. Considering the noise, I had anticipated that the front differential oil would have a glitter-like appearance.

Tomorrow, our intention is to disassemble the front differential in order to conduct a comprehensive examination. I successfully removed the fluid and did not see any traces of metal inside it. The axles and differentials were overhauled 1000 km ago. The noise is quite peculiar, perplexing even my superior who is completely unfamiliar with such a sound. The differential exhibits seamless operation, with no noticeable looseness or indications of any internal malfunctions. Additional context on the differences is that they were compiled in 2017 by my supervisor. The items were sent to him in a disorganised manner, contained inside an unmarked box, with all the components being mismatched. He made a diligent effort to assemble them correctly, but there is no assurance that the pieces were in their correct positions. It is conceivable that anything in this recent reconstruction is slightly misaligned.

Seeking assistance from experts in the field of Classics. We now have a 1995 Range Rover Classic (RRC) equipped with a 300 TDI engine in our workshop. The vehicle is experiencing an unusual noise. At speeds beyond 50 kilometres per hour, when we release the accelerator to maintain a constant speed, there is a noticeable grinding or rattling sound emanating from the front of the vehicle. This noise becomes more pronounced as the speed increases and can be felt through the floor. You have the ability to do it at will and it can be replicated consistently. It remains constant regardless of steering. Previously, we possess: Reconstructed the engine Reconstructed the front differential Reconstructed the rear differential As per the owner's statement, the vehicle did not produce the noise before. However, it is worth noting that the car was in poor condition when it arrived at the shop, and we did see noise coming from the front differential before the repairs were done. Since it has returned for further tasks and the noise it produces: Reconstructed the gearbox Recently acquired transfer case It is evident that the vehicle does not possess its original front axle, which we suspect was sourced from a V8 model without air suspension (since there is no provision for shock absorber mounting). Furthermore, the car has undergone a modification to replace the original suspension system with coil springs. The noise ceases when the front drive shaft is removed. The universal joints on the drive shaft are in excellent condition and have been lubricated. We have thoroughly investigated all the typical individuals or entities, but have not found any evidence or results. Assistance in any kind is welcomed. v

Is the window sticker available for the last R8 that was manufactured? I comprehend that this automobile will be housed at the Audi Museum and I am intrigued to observe the specifications they have chosen for the vehicle. Furthermore, was it produced as a 2023 model?

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