Anhartic

There is just enough space to insert the 27mm socket onto the bolt, as shown in the images below, for it to fit within the pulley. So that it would lay flat on the metal cross member directly beneath, I bevelled the end of the bar. If anyone else needs to change the crankshaft pulley but doesn't want to spend £80 on the right equipment, I thought I'd share some pictures and measurements. Half an inch thick and one and a half inches wide is the dimensions of the bar. To form the angle to rest on the cross member, the longest side is 11.5 inches and the other side is 11 inches. Surprisingly, the holes were drilled at a metal fabricators where I obtained the metal bar, but to my delight, they fit precisely. Ignore all other holes; the ones you need to drill are 3.5 and 8 centimetres from the end. To avoid protruding, the M8 bolts have been trimmed to fit snugly inside the pulleys' holes. Since I despise reading things that don't end, I updated this in the hopes that it would be useful.

Apologies for the oversight. I should have clarified that I did locate the tool; but, it can only be bought from an American vendor and will set you back £80 (not including delivery). An amusing trinket for an occasional use item... Therefore, I am attempting to construct my own tool in some way. I have been contemplating this idea all day and plan to cut two little pieces off the end of the metal rod tonight to form a triangle. Then, I will thread another bolt through the top to hopefully secure it more firmly. Upon my return, I will share a photo.

Salutations everyone, I have spent days researching the problem and have bought all the essential parts, including a genuine MERC harmonic balancer and bolt, a torque wrench to tighten to 200 nm, and a 27 mm impact socket, but I still can't figure out how to lock the pulley so I can remove the 27 mm bolt. As a means of leverage, I possess two sections of scaffolding pipe. A 50 mm thick piece of steel that I had drilled four holes at the end, fastened with two long bolts, and wedged into the ground was my creation. It was working fine until it fell out. Curious if anybody has ever created their very own tool... While the YouTube video demonstrates the proper usage of an equal tee with a coupler and flange, I'm afraid that this setup will not accommodate the 27mm bolt. There doesn't appear to be a flange that can accommodate both the 27 mm bolt and fitting inside the balancer. Please, if you have any ideas, help me get this beast back on the road! Best regards

Although I like the 1999 C240 elegance's comfortable ride, I'm not a huge fan of how high it sits. Several variants of the C240 have caught my eye; for example, the sport version appears to have a lower seating position than the elegance version. Is it easy to switch over the elegance setup for the sports setup? What adjustments would be necessary in that case?Also, how would the level of comfort during the voyage change? I'm not trying to get too low; rather, I'd like to make a little adjustment to my posture and handling while still being quite comfortable. I would be grateful for any advice you could provide me.

Greetings. Is it possible for a BMW-approved shop to only indicate that they have inspected my EGR cooler in order to cease the receipt of these recall notifications? My vehicle has undergone an EGR delete, and I wish to ensure that no actions are taken that could revert the software or any related modifications. I have delayed addressing this matter due to the aforementioned reasons, as well as my previous lack of proximity to an authorised garage and time constraints. Thank you in advance

Regrettably, my plans have altered, hence more exploration is unnecessary. Thank you, everyone.

I am not in a hurry; this may be advantageous.Perhaps you could determine how that may be feasible; I will provide you with my contact information.

I concur, although I am confident I can locate a short-term insurance option. This is feasible here, at the very least.

No, I am referring to all situations. The automobile is decelerating, but I am uncertain if it is utilising the engine or the brakes to do so. I believe it would be beneficial for the vehicles following you, as the braking motion might be quite abrupt.

Does the brake light activate when decelerating the engine when utilising adaptive cruise control?

Understood. Are there other methods to verify it? All the information I have seen indicates that the EGR is becoming stuck in either the open or closed position.

I will do that; do you have any suggestions on what to examine if it is not an EGR problem?

There are two slender tubes connected to the EGR system in my vehicle. Would it be safe to operate the automobile if I detach these two tubes? Should I remove one hose, and if so, should I secure the severed hose or leave it untethered?

Hello everyone, my 118d automatic, 59 plate, has intermittent stuttering and then stalls while decelerating to a halt. This issue occurs only when the engine is cold, primarily during the first mile of driving. Last year, I replaced the gasoline filter, which significantly decreased the frequency of stalling; nevertheless, it now occurs almost every morning. The vehicle restarts without issue after stalling, and there are no warning lights illuminated on the dashboard. I believed the filter was expected to last for more than a year. Is it possible that it is anything different? Would it be advisable to remove the EGR for the purpose of cleaning it? Additionally, I am uncertain if it is pertinent, but the engine operates with considerable noise and roughness at idle. I replaced the belt tensioner last year, which significantly improved performance; however, could the tensioner require replacement once more? Are these issues interconnected?

However, they are not subjected to emissions testing at maximum revolutions, unlike diesel engines.

I agree; it is beneficial for assisting me in passing the examination. However, it is rather deceptive to do the test at 3000 RPM whereas my ALFA was required to perform the same test at about 5000 RPM. This is only a topic for discussion.

I have not had a testing license since the late 1990s, and that examination began in 1994. To my knowledge, there were no software limitations on derivatives at that time, just the governor. Several individuals involved in tuning, who had elevated governors, expressed dissatisfaction with the alterations at that time. I recall having a few snap belts. A warning was sent about the belt's impending replacement owing to mileage; yet, he persisted on testing it since he need the vehicle. "SNAP!" Vehicles with malfunctioning or removed limiters are often evident from the first rev, resulting in an immediate and significant failure. This is inequitable, since my automobile will not undergo a comprehensive assessment at its limit, perhaps emitting excessive smoke at 4000 RPM without detection at the testing facility.It does not, by the way!

I observed some time ago that my vehicle (OM642, 231 horsepower) does not exceed 3000 RPM in neutral. Initially suspecting a malfunction or limp mode despite the absence of an engine management light, I conducted research and discovered that this behavior is typical for my engine and is functioning as intended. It rebounds off the governor when engaged and in motion. This prompted me to contemplate the MOT, which I have scheduled for this Thursday. The diesel MOT includes revving the engine to the limits a maximum of 12 times for emissions and smoke testing. However, it is likely that my automobile is providing a distorted result owing to the restricted revolutions while stationary. Is this component part of the emissions manipulation program or only a mechanism to save the engine from over revving and potential damage? I was formerly a tester, and upon reviewing the current handbook, it is evident that it addresses a prevalent issue, stating that "if the engine revs are limited by design or software, it should be tested as presented." It seems rather deceptive, since it would undoubtedly emit more pollutants near the redline than at a modest 3000 rpm. Any observations?

I considered purchasing a second-hand laptop just for ISTA, but I ultimately concluded that I do not want to risk damaging it.

I am due to get an exchanged steering rack with an electric power steering motor and have been informed that it will need coding. Am I capable of doing this task myself, and which diagnostic instrument is suitable, or should I consult a garage?

http://www.replacementmercedeskeys.co.uk/contact-us/

The immobiliser will disengage when a functional key is inserted into the ignition lock. A locksmith cannot create a new key without the capability to program it for your vehicle. This implies the utilisation of Mercedes hardware, which I suspect a local locksmith may not possess. This company can fabricate a new key; however, they are located in Birmingham. A house visit may be financially burdensome. Contact them; they might be able to assist. If that fails, search for Mercedes' primary supplier locally on Google.

Present your V5 and an identification document, such as a passport, at a main dealership to request a new key. Anticipate an expense of approximately £300 for a replacement key.

Is better to go to a dealership !