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What is the pressure on the rail? Have you verified the reading? Is the leak occurring at the T fitting or at the top of the injector?

The fluid in the return line consists solely of that which is not utilised during injection, specifically referred to as leak-off. The common rail maintains constant pressure, allowing the injector to utilise it as needed, and ideally, there would be no return flow. However, we should anticipate some. It may be advisable to conduct an additional leak-off test to determine if any injector exhibits excessive leakage. In comparison to the others, it should serve as a reasonable demonstration, given its novelty. Inserting the plastic leaks into the injector can be challenging; I encountered difficulties with the new 'O' rings being excessively thick. Have you possibly solved one?

I found his post quite caustic.

This platform is free to use, and your post was made less than 24 hours ago. Individuals provide responses here at their convenience and leisure. Increased activity on the forum would reveal that numerous users are consistently engaging with others and offering precise and prompt assistance on various concerns. Your assertion that "few if any want to contribute or help" is intriguing, as a brief review of your posts reveals that they predominantly solicit assistance without any indication of your own contributions.

I sincerely apologise if my post caused offence. Based on my experiences over the years, it appears that very few individuals are willing to contribute or assist others. When such assistance does occur, it is undoubtedly invaluable, yet it seems challenging to connect with someone who possesses the necessary knowledge.

The forum is highly active. Do you believe that such a comment is more likely to elicit assistance?

There must be someone available who can assist. Kindly or Is this forum as inactive as it appears?

My 2007 W639 Vito 111 CDI has begun experiencing fuel-related troubles. Exiting the conversation. The background is as follows: after performing repairs on an injector blow-by and the hold-down bolt threads, the car began to leak gasoline from its leak-off system. I suspected that I had been excessively forceful with the press-down clips on the plastic pipe fittings attached to the spigot pipes emerging from the side of the injector.I conducted a leak-off test and discovered that three of the injectors were defective, exhibiting excessive fuel leakage. Consequently, I acquired a whole set of replacement injectors, Honda copper washers, and new stretch hold-down bolts, and replaced them together with a brand new leak-off pipe system. after a run test drive i noticed it was leaking yet again but this time knowing full well the leak off was just a dribble and the leaking wouldnt start until at lease five mins of running ,i then purchased another pipe set believing it must of been a dud set i had previously got and fitted another new set ,another test run and another leak ensued so this time i thought it must be having trouble to leak back into the in-tank pumped supply line where it is plumbed into via an alloy y adapter ,having looked at it i considered it could either be a clogged filter (where the in tank pump brings the low pressure supply into) or maybe a locked up non return check valve which is in the new replaced leak off pipe so i checked the valve using air line and a peice of stiff wire all good replaced filter and test drive ,still leaking fuel out of the weakest point of the rubber leak off sections between the injectors , this tells me the pressure of the system where it is supposed to bleed into is far too high ? I assume that the return line to the tank may be obstructed. Could it be a defective pressure regulator valve in the common rail? Are there any technicians available to assist me in resolving this issue? I am perplexed; the vehicle starts and operates flawlessly. Could it be experiencing excessive pressure owing to a malfunctioning pressure control system? How does it control the pressure returning to the tank following its effective transit through the common rail? I am unable to locate anybody with the requisite experience and traditional diagnostic skills to identify this type of defect from the past.

You are exceedingly fortunate!

Land Rover has consented to cover 80% of the repair costs, and the vehicle is now scheduled for repairs.

Obtain an accurate diagnosis from a JLR professional or authorised dealer. Anticipate an SURPRISE! I have encountered comparable alternators ranging from 1800 (Valeo, which is the original equipment manufacturer) to 2700 (JLR, which I have been informed is a Valeo but is priced at 900 more). My inverter has also failed, resulting in an additional expense of £800. To install the alternator, the front of the automobile must be removed, requiring six hours at the applicable hourly rate. ASTOUNDING!

Do the 48V batteries lack a 6-year warranty? Is the issue attributable to the battery or possibly the DC/DC converter? I recommend obtaining a proper diagnosis. Do you possess access to a legal helpline, house insurance, or union membership? Refer to the following for your entitlements. When purchasing a pre-owned vehicle from a dealership, you are entitled under the Consumer Rights Act 2015 to obtain a car that is of adequate quality, suitable for its intended use, and accurately described. You may return a defective vehicle for a complete refund within the initial 30 days. Within six months, but beyond 30 days, a dealer is required to make one attempt at repair or replacement for a defect; if unsuccessful, you are entitled to a refund. After six months, you must demonstrate that the defect existed at the time of sale. Your fundamental rights The car must be free from defects and in acceptable condition relative to its age and mileage. The vehicle must be suitable for any specific purpose communicated to the dealer, such as the capability to pull a caravan. The vehicle must conform to its description, encompassing specifics in the advertisement, such as engine capacity and other physical condition aspects addressed. Solutions for a malfunctioning vehicle You are entitled to reject the vehicle and obtain a full refund within 30 days. 30 days to 6 months: Should a defect occur, you may request a repair or replacement from the dealer. Should this endeavour prove unsuccessful, you are entitled to a refund. After six months, the onus is on you to demonstrate that the defect was present at the time of purchase. Actions to take in the event of an error Promptly notify the dealer to report the issue. If an agreement cannot be attained, you may solicit assistance from an unbiased entity such as The Motor Ombudsman. If the vehicle was acquired through financing, the Financial Ombudsman Service can provide assistance with any associated complaints. Dealerships are prohibited from employing terms such as "sold as seen" to negate your legal rights.

Are they an authorised JLR dealer? Your warranty description does not suggest that. If you are dissatisfied with their handling of a warranty claim, consider reviewing the Consumer Rights Act or consulting Trading Standards. Regarding JLR, it is unlikely you would achieve a favourable outcome as the vehicle is over three years old.

They assert that they are a pre-owned JLR dealer, first offering a three-year RAC guarantee with a £50 hourly labour rate. However, they then stated the rate would be £70 per hour, despite their actual rates being £95 per hour. I have been informed that batteries are not included in the coverage. I would have expected the 48-volt battery to endure beyond 3 years and 4 months.

The dealer is unresponsive; is this a big dealership offering a one-year approved used warranty, or a lesser independent dealer providing a three-month warranty? You did not specify.

Thank you.

Contact JLR customer support.

Any advice would be welcomed. I purchased a Range Rover Evoque with a 2-liter petrol engine, registered at the end of July 2022. I have possessed the vehicle for three and a half months. Three weeks ago, a battery warning light illuminated when we were driving past a garage, prompting us to request a diagnostic examination. The alternator was found to be non-functional, prompting the order and installation of a new unit from JLR. A further issue was identified, and the electrician determined that the 48v hybrid battery was non-functional. Do I have any recourse with Land Rover, given that the car has only travelled 20,000 miles? The merchant from whom I purchased it is disinterested, asserting that it was in satisfactory condition at delivery.

I also owned a CLK; the trunk lock is infamous for accumulating debris over time. It is essential to use WD40 and a quality lubricant annually to maintain its functionality.

A sticky lock actuator appears to be a plausible explanation.

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Thank you for your response – I sincerely appreciate it. I attempted to utilise the key to operate the boot several times, and miraculously, it resumed functionality. Remarkably peculiar! It has been functioning adequately since that time; therefore, I remain hopeful that it will continue to do so.

A code scan may be beneficial. Depending on the scan instrument utilised, it may be possible to conduct actuation tests on the central locking control modules.

I possess the same model and year of the vehicle, although I have not encountered this issue; the car automatically locks itself if not secured with the key fob after use. It appears that the issue with the boot may stem from a defective micro switch on the handle or a potentially severed wire within the wiring loom near the hinge, as the repeated opening and closing of the boot might lead to wire damage. Simply retract the rubber boot on the loom to inspect the wires.