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The technology part of the 5 series would be optimal.

I appreciate your response. Could you kindly indicate the appropriate location to post my question so that more members would view it?

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It may be prudent to pose your inquiry in the appropriate place, as not everyone will check this area to greet others.

Recommendations for the persistent decline in engine coolant levels? The situation commenced two weeks ago without any apparent leaks beneath the vehicle.

It can only be attributed to a poor connection. When you jump-start it, are you utilising the jump point located under the hood? Inspect the ground connection as well as the one on the engine.

I become rather anxious in the absence of crack; you will be OK.

If there is no power or connection to the battery owing to corroded connections in the battery box, there will also be no output at the alternator terminal.

I will need to investigate tomorrow morning. Thank you. Do you have any insights into the zero voltage from the alternator and the method I employed for testing it?

What is the status of the transfer points? They are located in the battery compartment and are only visible when the battery is removed. If water has been present in the box, it is quite probable that they have decayed.

All wires originating from the battery and power distribution box appear to be clean and free of corrosion; however, there was a quantity of stagnant water in the battery tray, which has already been removed.

The primary electrical conduit from the battery to the engine compartment appears to have malfunctioned; remove the battery and inspect the connection points. I would speculate that it has decayed.

The title indicates that my E93 experiences a no-charge or no-crank issue, yet it may be jump-started. I conducted research on this topic and found minimal information. I have purchased a new battery, although there is still no ignition without a jump start. Attempted to install an alternative power distribution box and conducted continuity testing on what I believe to be the best option. All cabin lights and controls appear to function as indicated. I have directly checked the alternator, connecting the red wire to the red cable from the alternator and grounding the black wire. However, this method yields no voltage. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much

Page 5-89 of the user manual. The driver assistance settings are appropriately located in the cluster, thereby preserving your selection. Modify it with the buttons on the driving wheel.

I have not identified an option to disable this warning on the new model Niro. What is the location of the setting, and does it remain deactivated upon the subsequent engine ignition?

I consistently deactivate mine. The last thing I desire is an additional caution light indicating a temperature of 3°C or below. I can resolve that independently.

Continuing to receive it in my 2020 E-Niro.

I am certain that I received an Icy Road Warning last year (Winter 2024/25), yet this year, notwithstanding the cold spell, no such warnings have been issued. The ability to enable or disable this feature, previously located under 'Settings/Cluster,' has vanished. Does anyone else own this? I am curious whether the feature was eliminated in the most recent software upgrade (2025).

Regrettably, the 2008 SL I refer to lacks a filler cover on the reservoir, representing further regression by Mercedes-Benz.

This resembles a topic that our dearly missed member Television would have expounded upon with great alacrity, either here or on MBOA. A search for threads by Television on the issue may yield beneficial results.

I visited MB today, and they concur that the driver's door glass requires adjustment to prevent the quarter light from leaking. It requires two hours for sorting.

Primary driver's door, with a leak from the quarter lamp at the rear.

Therefore, it is the rear quarter panel, not the back window? In that instance, it may arise from the same problem.

I replace the ZHM fluid in my R129s biennially, to the best of my ability. With the roof retracted and the reservoir at maximum capacity, remove the spare wheel and unscrew the filler cap. Utilise a syringe to extract as much fluid as feasible, then replenish to the level mark, which should be at maximum with the roof down and all rams fully compressed. Alternatively, record the level prior to extraction and refill to the same level. A complete fluid change is never performed; but, by conducting this maintenance biennially, I encountered no issues with the roof hydraulics over the seven years and 150,000 miles of my previous SL. I acquired my current vehicle in August 2025 and will undertake the initial fluid change this summer to assess its condition. I was informed when acquiring my first SL that frequent fluid changes and consistent usage were the optimal methods to maintain the roof hydraulics in excellent condition. During my seven years of ownership, the hardtop was scarcely affixed to my vehicle; I utilised the car daily and maintained the roof in a retracted position almost every day, except during inclement weather. I even operated it with the roof down in winter conditions, provided the ambient temperature did not fall below 8 degrees Celsius, as stipulated in the manual to prevent damage to the plastic windows of the soft top.