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Potentially a pyro fuse in the red distribution block.

Okay, so there was absolutely no electricity there. Zero. None.

If anything, it is a valid point up there. Lights everything; locks.

Is the vehicle still functional? Is it possible for you to check for error codes and remove them?

They are not replaceable but can be accessed by unclipping the red plastic from the battery's distribution board.

Alright, so we can inject some serious learning into this thread by pretending it didn't reanimate in the same way it did. The large fuses that I thought were stored behind the white box in the engine compartment are nowhere to be seen. And here I was thinking there were some on that item about the battery distribution cap?

Magical.

I got lucky, therefore it doesn't matter. The vehicle started up immediately after I reconnected the negative battery post.

Was the relay removed from its housing? The distribution board needs to be changed because the fuse inside has probably blown and cannot be replaced.

A multimeter reading of 0.15 volts was obtained when connected to the positive battery post under the hood with ground.

I had a beautiful spark, forgot to unplug the battery, touched the socket to the positive terminal of the alternator, and now there is no electricity. Is this related to what I observed when I peered under the white cover of the engine bay? All I could find was a small black box. Otherwise, how can I find it? I can't seem to locate them, even though I've obviously blown a big fuse. Even on the battery, I don't see any.

Following your advice, I will attach a cord. Future hookups would be a breeze with that.

An eyelet connector that works with your battery tender could be used. It connects directly to the battery terminals and lets you move the connecting side to a better spot.

Thank you, RosaStyle. The delicate connection was a breeze thanks to you. So far, so good.

You can reach the positive terminal of the battery with relative ease. A body ground wire is fastened to the fender immediately in front of the battery, while the negative terminal is concealed beneath the windscreen cowl. This is the location that the owner's manual suggests for jump starting, and it should work perfectly for a charger or tender.

Greetings everyone; An updated cx90 for 2026 That was just this week that I made the purchase. I would prefer to be able to attach a battery tender to it because there may be instances when it is not driven. Slightly concealed beneath in the engine compartment on the passenger side is the 12-volt battery. Is accessing the battery itself the only hassle when connecting a battery tender? The fact that the battery is so out of sight is not an issue for me with other vehicles. Much obliged.

Good grief. My demeanour toward artificial intelligence is as kind as pie, and I am quite polite. Twenty years from now, when our human slaves will be assigned tasks by our future masters, I would like it documented that I was polite even when it wasn't necessary. The specificity, rather than the complexity, of this system is what worries me (though I could be completely mistaken). For a few years, it was limited to a handful of chassis. Because of this, the majority of people will not purchase the necessary hardware to work on it. In general, I feel that way. In my opinion, Denver is the kind of city that teeters on the brink of becoming large enough to support specific activities. A metropolis with three million inhabitants may not be as large as you might imagine. It seems like a decade ago, Denver lost its last specialised RR/B mechanic, and that includes my Bentley. Now we have two garages that will work on pre-VAG RR/Bs, but only one of them can really handle the job. As another more general example, consider Ethiopian cuisine. Sure, Denver has plenty of room for a few of restaurants, but how good are they? Perhaps, you're right. So, is there someone here who can clone keys for the R129/W140 for a limited time (say, three years)? I don't know, maybe. Eventually, I will discover

This is just the humble opinion of a long-lost internet noob, but..... I fail to see why that particular module is disproportionately prone to bricking during removal compared to the undoubtedly hundreds of thousands of modules that mechanics handle daily with scant regard for static discharge prevention. No need to rush out and get the ungrounded EIS after scuffing your feet on the shag rug in your shop. That probably didn't require saying, but I went ahead and said it nevertheless. Even though kraut engineers have made it harder and harder to duplicate their keys over the years, I'd be surprised if a good locksmith couldn't be located in Denver, Colorado, for a vehicle that's 30 years old. AI can be a great help in that search. Furthermore, simply tell it to get twisted if it insists on fighting against your notion. On a daily basis, I slur at Gemini. Abuse works wonders on it.

The feedback you provided is much appreciated. Even if it's only for cosmetic reasons, I'd prefer not to destroy anything. However, my main worry is that according to GPT, even a harmless static shock could damage the EIS. Ideally, I'd locate someone in Denver who could work on it while I'm on the go.

How widespread are these instruments? Would you believe there's a reasonable probability of finding a locksmith in Denver who can work with the EIS in a Mercedes if I contacted every single one of them?

Just to clarify, my first inquiry was... Car is a little newer (2013) and it has an ML, but the EIS mount is probably not drastically different. I broke mine because I had a hard time removing the trim bezel. Even though it didn't show, the cracked version was still functional, but it was annoying, thus that was an extra expense for the job. I don't think it was necessary to remove the bezel, which is probably why it snapped while I was removing it. The retaining fixture was rather complicated, and since then, I've forgotten most of the specifics. To find out what to do, I jammed my phone into it and took a bunch of images. I had a hard time finding any guidance online, but removing the module was a breeze after I got the hang of the system. With access to additional information online, your model can seem different. In general, it is not a particularly challenging task. It could be a 2 out of 10. A repair company in Edmonton quickly returned mine when I shipped it there. No problems whatsoever. It was a lengthy drive, but I did find places that would fix my car if I brought it in.

You may find FSB-2 and the three important tools on the internet; nonetheless, I personally would not want to be his first patient, even if it was made public around ten years ago.

My wife's 1997 S320 has an electronic ignition system (EIS), and I'm thinking of sending it in to get some spare keys created because we only have one. Will have to hold off till my W126 returns from having the valves fixed, which might be within the next month or two (barring any problems from the locksmith mentioned below). I need to be very careful when removing and reinstalling this software, according to ChatGPT. Should I be concerned about this? Interestingly enough, I had a Facebook conversation with a locksmith who informed me that he could clone the key using some modern technology. He assured me he wouldn't charge me anything if it didn't work, and he sounded rather confident. Although I have emailed him multiple times, he has only responded with vague assurances that "yes, I'm on it." I am still waiting for a firm response. Does the possibility that he might be onto something here seem plausible? He gave the impression that the tools he planned to use had only recently become accessible.

Street Racer gets a hammering when played away from the lights, but it's entertaining! Over the past few days, I've been consistently recording 40–50mpg while driving steadily around town on the Eco level. The fact that the figures refuse to change or reset, even though there appears to be a way to do so in the trip computer settings, is really getting under my skin. I've been informed that the figures only update automatically after refuelling, but then why is there a reset option?