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Here is a consolidated thread. Any comments that don't fit together demonstrate why we prefer one thread per topic rather than several.

Those are the switches that go on your clutch pedal; anyone who has ever changed the cabin filter in a Scenic 3 will recognise them.

Specifically, which sensor?

Better yet, specify what you have done and why you have done it; for example, provide the diagnostic data and error codes that led you to believe the ECU and BCM needed swapping.

This battery is completely new. I just need to know the voltages and known good data coming out of the sensor pins when it's turned on and also how to disconnect it, because it's had everything possible. it's equipped with an ECU and BCM Everything that comes to mind

I was wondering how many years this car battery has been in service.

I am unable to determine the source of the problem as it pertains to the start-stop function.

https://www.amazon.com/s?ascsubtag=v1-2d4aab-621520-fcac904a8b-k&k=Renault+master+cylinder

Greetings, everyone! I am new to this forum and am currently struggling to diagnose a problem with a 2017 Grand Scenic. Continues to generate A consistent clutch switch signal (DTC0833) for the P0833 Contact switch for the end stroke of the P158A clutch (DTC158A) P0806 | Circuit for clutch switch (DTC0806) Nobody seems to have ever dealt with this before, and I've been trying to track down a test plan for it for quite some time. have twice used authentic Renault parts to replace the master cylinder The one thing I've noticed about real-time data is that the end point is always the same. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Amazon.co.uk : Automatic Transmission Fluid

Thanks! I'll try to get it sorted over the weekend, assuming it stops raining, because it should arrive then.

Ignore the part about the roof lining because you don't have one. It's a convertible, not a regular 4 series. My apologies. Just follow the existing wiring for the boot lid routing, which should be the same.

Thank you, that's alright. I was worried because the convertible's trunk opens in two directions.

Running it behind the glovebox and down under the sill trims and up behind the C post trim is one easy option, or you can run it behind the glovebox and up behind To fit into the space between the body and the headlining, we used a post trim and raised it above the door seals. It can follow the same plastic trunking on the lid hinge as the current wiring and run to the boot lid. I seem to remember taking the nearby route.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=BMW+MMI+box+CarPlay+Android+Auto

Greetings everybody, Prolonged observer For the last twelve months, a mmi box from DroidUK has served me admirably. I am looking for instructions on how to set up a reverse camera but haven't been able to locate any. Anybody have any advice, please?

Who knows, maybe they'll return 😉

I would say it's more

What are your thoughts on this? I'm totally confused.

Is the pump leaking or spilling anything?

Amazon.co.uk : Throttle Body for Toyota Camry 07-11/ Corolla 09-10/ RAV4 06-08 22030-0H030

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I would wait to purchase any additional parts until you have performed basic testing, considering that you have already cleaned the throttle body, replaced the cracked intake boot and IAC valve, and replaced the throttle body. For the 2.2L 5S-FE, I recommend checking the vacuum switching valve (VSV) and the air conditioning idle-up valve first. When the air conditioner compressor turns on, that system is meant to take up the extra load. The engine can decrease several hundred RPM, shake, or even stall if the valve isn't opening, the solenoid isn't being energised, or if one of the vacuum hoses is leaking or disconnected. Instead of assuming that the new IAC has handled everything, make sure to check the hoses, electrical connector, and valve operation. The vacuum lines and idle-up valve for the power steering system should also be checked. Even when you're not moving the steering wheel, an irregular idle might be caused by a circuit leak. While you're there, make sure the new IAC is working properly and that its air vents are unobstructed. Because the idle speed is so unpredictable when I go from Park to Drive or turn the air conditioner on and off, I'm starting to suspect the throttle position sensor, specifically its closed-throttle signal. Along with the engine coolant temperature sensor and the park/neutral position switch input, I would make sure to check that. Proper idle control is dependent on the ECU receiving accurate data from those components. First things first: check the OBD-I trouble codes. Turn on the key while the engine is off, connect the diagnostic connector under the hood by jumping the TE1 and E1 wires, and then count the number of flashes of the check engine light. There might be stored code that indicates the issue even if the warning light is off. Forget about the idle; what really gets under my skin is the car's inability to go faster than fifty miles per hour. I would never attribute that to the air conditioner's idle-up valve or IAC. Verify the mechanical and ignition timing, check for a restricted catalytic converter, and test the fuel pressure under load. The engine may have trouble running smoothly under load and at idle due to a partially clogged exhaust, a timing belt that has jumped a tooth, or inadequate fuel delivery. If you're experiencing rough idle or stalling, another thing to check is the EGR valve. Make sure it's not stuck open. An inaccurate signal from the MAP sensor or a vacuum leak could be to blame for the engine's poor performance and inconsistent idle. In my opinion, the order of operation should be as follows: first, inspect the vacuum hoses, trouble codes, air conditioning idle-up valve, fuel pressure, and IAC operation. Then, proceed to test the timing, fuel pressure, and exhaust backpressure. So long as we don't keep replacing good parts, that should keep things under control. Do you find it difficult to increase the engine's RPM after reaching 50 miles per hour, or does it rev normally even when the car isn't moving faster? A lot of time and effort could be spared in troubleshooting if that difference was made.

To find out, with the air conditioning turned off, what is the engine speed at park and neutral?

Are any errors being thrown?