All Activity

Greetings to all I possess a 2003 CLK that I have kept for an extended period, and it has consistently performed well; nevertheless, as it ages, I anticipate an increase in potential concerns. This morning, I dropped the children off at school and observed that the trunk would not open using the handle release. I activated the boot release button within the vehicle, and it opened successfully. Upon returning home, I attempted once more, although the handle remained inoperative. Curiously, the boot release button within the vehicle no longer illuminates or functions, and the remote key also fails to unlock the boot. I must operate the key manually. Although I am uncertain of any correlation, my wife, who was waiting in the car after my shopping trip yesterday, remarked that the vehicle appeared to be locking itself autonomously. Has anyone encountered a similar experience? Where should I commence my search? Any feedback would be very valued. Thank you in advance.

These trackers are intended to connect to the positive and negative terminals of the battery. Relatively simple tracker, however of satisfactory quality.

I would examine the fusebox via a piggyback connection; this ensures it is deactivated when it is supposed to be, employing an ignition live fuse.

Your vehicle appears to be a newer model. To my knowledge, the 2022 version with touchscreen buttons does not provide an option to connect a Toyota Account. If such an option exists, I would welcome guidance on where to locate it.

Recently replaced the 12v battery on my device without seeing any issues during disconnection. I had to re-enter my phone and Toyota account information on the main page, but the vehicle retained most other settings.

Numerous forum members appear to have exchanged batteries without encountering issues or without specific procedures. Note that the 12v battery possesses a minimal capacity, and if your tracker draws current while the vehicle is off, the battery will likely deplete.

Hello, I need to install a tracker on my recently acquired 2022 CHR using the 12V battery connections. Can I simply disconnect the connections and proceed as with a conventional vehicle, or must I exercise caution and adhere to a certain procedure? Thank you in advance.

It appears to be a problem with the starter motor. Fairly prevalent.

Were you able to ascertain the nature of the problem?

😑

Thank you! I initially believed it was one of these; however, today I left it to Mercedes as it is under warranty.

I have encountered an issue wherein the starter motor influences the selection of drive mode. It may be that.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=petrol engine&campid=5338181132&customid=2518X1570512Xe93a22757d556808f81ba08dfa35d3f8&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&subId2=15&toolid=10001

Please articulate your concerns in English if you require assistance. What do you mean by "getting started"? A plug-in hybrid has initiated operation despite the petrol engine being inactive. Is the petrol engine failing to start smoothly? "Abruptly, when it begins to leap..." "Advances it"? Does it operate similarly to an automatic gearbox equipped with a torque converter? I question whether forum members can articulate "what you may be"; did you intend to convey "what it may be," the issue?

Thank you. I seek assistance, as my automobile remained at Mercedes Stratford for two weeks and was returned to me without resolution of the issue.

A C350e owners club exists here. They may be capable of providing assistance.

Greetings! I possess a 2016 C350e and am experiencing the following issue. The vehicle experiences challenges when initiating Hybrid mode. After a brief moment of contemplation, it suddenly begins to leap, propelling it forward. Currently, I can only utilise electricity or petrol, resulting in a fuel efficiency of 20 miles per gallon, which is exceedingly poor. I would much appreciate any insights regarding my potential identity. Thank you!

The e9x series experienced a battery cable defect; I had mine replaced in an e92 335d, accompanied by a recall letter. Therefore, I presume the issue has been resolved in the f series, as I have not encountered reports of it. Perhaps consult Jason at BWChiptune; you can find them online.

There appears to be an issue with the primary connection to the main fuse panel, possibly related to the B+ terminal, however I am uncertain regarding your vehicle. I believe it pertains to older models.

Greetings, When a charged battery is attached, voltage is present under the hood, indicating that the main cable is intact. Based on my readings, the complete loss of power may have been due to low voltage to the FEM. I believe there will be two or three issues instead than just one. I anticipate acquiring more information tomorrow, although it would not astonish me if I do not.

To experience a complete loss of electrical power, I would begin by inspecting the battery. Transfer locations where battery power traverses the body to the primary cables below; the grounding point from the negative terminal warrants inspection.

Greetings everyone, I seek guidance from anyone who may have encountered a similar situation or can provide direction. I possess a 2013 BMW F31 that has manifested an unusual and significant electrical problem, which I am currently endeavouring to resolve. Several months ago, my nephew was operating the vehicle at approximately 60 mph when it abruptly ceased functioning – the engine stalled instantaneously, the dashboard went entirely dark, and there were no indications from the iDrive or any lights. It failed to initiate on the roadside as well, exhibiting no response. Subsequent developments are as follows: Battery replacement executed → no improvement A buddy installed a new starter motor, as initially thought; however, the car started just once and operated very roughly, with rattling and instability, as if it were lacking voltage. Subsequent to that solitary initiation, it reverted immediately to a state of complete inactivity. A mobile mechanic just installed a fully charged battery; yet, there is still no answer. The iDrive would momentarily display the BMW emblem before shutting down again. The hazard button began to flash autonomously and could not be deactivated. The central locking function operated solely with the physical key. Diagnostics revealed several "low voltage" errors across the majority of modules. The car remains unresponsive to a jump start, even when using heavy-duty cables from a vehicle. As of today, the symptoms have altered once more: The hazard button has ceased to flash. The iDrive is completely nonfunctional at present. There is entirely no inner power, no flicker, nothing - it is more "dead" than it has ever been. The vehicle has transitioned from intermittent low voltage issues to a total lack of electrical power. Considering all factors, I am inclined to conclude that the issue pertains to a significant power distribution failure, rather than an immobiliser/CAS malfunction, a starting problem, or a battery deficiency. The probable suspects appear to be: Failure of the main engine to chassis ground strap (a prevalent issue in F-series vehicles) The primary battery wire from the trunk to the front jump point is exhibiting significant resistance or experiencing internal failure. Damaged fusible link or BST (battery safety terminal) The FEM is losing its B+ or ground supply, rather than the FEM itself being defective. An independent mobile specialist for BMW/Mini is scheduled to assess the issue. However, prior to his arrival, I would want to enquire: Has anyone experienced a total power loss in an F30/F31/F32 while in motion, followed by an inability to restart or accept a jump start thereafter? What was the cause, if that is the case? Any insights from those who have seen analogous issues on the F-series platform would be greatly valued. I seek to refrain from indiscriminately spending on arbitrary components and would appreciate insights on what has effectively resolved the issue for others. Thank you in advance!

I anticipate he will encounter difficulties in achieving his asking price because to the gearbox issue.

https://www.facebook.com/login/?next=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2Fmarketplace%2Fitem%2F2325342897983187

These are rather inexpensive in the US; I have located a reliable rust-free model nearby that includes air conditioning but need a gearbox replacement.