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A discount of 20% on MFG was available until the end of September. If my recollection is accurate from last month's excursion to Aberdeen (Evo had inflated prices and I was unable to reach Tesla in the evening (beers!))

I appreciate the notification regarding P&C with the Puma; mine now asserts that it is activated. Currently, there is an MFG round in this vicinity that is expected to be p&c; I will verify upon approaching.

I have successfully activated plug and charge in Electroverse, and it appears as operational on the Ford App; I will test it during my next long journey.

Amazon.co.uk : Ford Puma

Amazon.co.uk : Electroverse EV charging

I primarily recharge at home, yet I appreciated the ease of plug-and-charge on the previous Blueoval charging network. Consequently, I periodically verified whether the Puma had been incorporated into Electroverse, and it appears that the recent TCU-26.2.11.5 update has facilitated its inclusion.

I previously utilised WD-40 prior to receiving guidance from the mechanic, and encountered no issues; however, I have adhered to the counsel provided since then. The sole observation I have made is that it appears to endure longer than typical WD-40; perhaps that is what he referred to regarding its tendency to become tacky over time.

I will adhere to your suggestion, but I am 73 years old and have utilised WD40 for approximately 40 years. I have never observed this firsthand. I concur that graphite powder is optimal for a lock barrel; however, in my experience with actual hinged components such as bonnet locks and hinges, I have applied numerous sprays without encountering any 'sticky' problems, but I appreciate your feedback.

During my ownership of a Discovery 3, the mirrors would often adhere; a Land Rover technician recommended applying a silicone lubricant - I utilise WD40 Silicone lubricant (other brands are accessible), and I was cautioned against using standard WD40 on door locks, hinges, etc., as it may exacerbate the issue, since standard WD40 can become exceedingly tacky upon drying.

Silicone Lubricant - WD-40 Specialist 400ml - Pack of 2 : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Are they the ones that are flush with the bodywork and protrude when the key is used to unlock? I have not encountered any problems, but I cleared away any debris using a 1-inch paintbrush and applied a light mist of WD40 on the visible folding hinges and slightly into the deeper section behind them. Throughout two winters, I have completed the task twice, and it has been exceptionally seamless. I have come across information indicating that they can lead to issues and are costly to fix. Similar to the majority of products on our cherished RR’s!

The door handle of my Evoque has begun to feel rigid recently, particularly in colder temperatures. It continues to function, yet the fluidity has undoubtedly diminished.

I lower the headlights for an approaching vehicle, and they revert to high beam. - A different vehicle is nearing me from around a bend, activating its high beams as it turns the corner. A perfectly straight road causes the main beam to activate as the approaching vehicle is too distant for the system to detect, dazzling the oncoming motorist. I thoroughly detest that system, and it has become customary for me to deactivate it promptly upon starting the engine.

I disabled it on my device. It lacks sufficient speed and sensitivity, resulting in frequent flashing, and it fails to operate below 30 mph, as it presumes you are in an urban environment; however, many local roads have speed limits under 30 mph where high beam is necessary.

Could I enquire about the reason? I possess an ALS on my S204 and appreciate every aspect of it.

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I possess that feature on our Hilux, and I despise it.

This is an exceptionally splendid attribute... during a nocturnal drive (outside urban locales), I relish activating them and allowing them to remain on, confident that the vehicle will graciously dim the high beams upon detecting an approaching car. I have never experienced this feature in any vehicle prior, so I am thoroughly enjoying it. Is this an upgrade that is frequently adopted by individuals?

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Especially after the refresh, the W204s are fantastic vehicles. The C220 CDI has a solid lump in the form of its OM651 engine. Problems with the injectors or glow plugs are possible, as is the case with all high miler diesels. The DPF can also become blocked. Select a vehicle with a clean service record to avoid the high cost of diesel engine repairs, such as replacing the high-pressure fuel pump. Another easy fix is the possibility of the front wheel speed sensors going out.

I really like the way they look and feel compared to the W205, so it's a shame I have to read up on them. Thank you for your response. Getting a late 2014 or 2015 version won't solve that problem, in my opinion; the information is often contradictory because MB isn't forthcoming about whether or not they changed them later on.

Revisit the W204 Rear Subframe search. You are not being excessively worried; it is terrible. Even with a recent MOT, W204 cars can conceal corrosion in the rear subframe. However, results do appear to be inconsistent. Even worse, MB is unwilling to admit fault.

Good day, The operational expenses, petrol, taxes, and mileages I was doing just weren't feasible at the time, and I still occasionally regret selling my previous W203 C class petrol automatic, but I inherited it from my dad. I am currently hunting for a 2.1 C220 CDI BlueEfficiency AMG Sport Edition 125 G-Tronic+ Euro 5 (s/s) 2dr that I hope to purchase with approximately 100,000 miles on the odometer, a partial history of Mercedes-Benz service, and that was recently serviced at the Mercedes-Benz specialist. Any specific purchasing advice would be greatly appreciated. Even though I'm usually comfortable checking over cars because I do a lot of maintenance on my own, the sub frame problem is really getting under my skin. It seems to rust internally, which isn't always obvious from the bottom, according to my research. I feel like I'm being overly concerned, but there's no guarantee that MB will cover the cost of the expensive repair, and the MOT history doesn't indicate any rust or corroded rear coil springs or suspension parts. Truthfully, my mom's A class hasn't been very successful, and I blame the fact that we don't often buy from main dealers but rather from local specialists. I would be very appreciative of any additional guidance on what to prioritise when purchasing the vehicle. I am very grateful.

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My sincere appreciation