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Hey everyone, I’m on looking for a first car for my daughter's birthday and noticed a 2022 Fiat 500 on FB Marketplace posted by Lamsam Logistics. At first blush I thought I was dealing with a private seller, but it turns out I’ve stumbled upon a Belfast based transport company that’s also in the business of selling repossessed vehicles. They’ve thrown their hat in the ring with home delivery to Somerset, promising it’ll be on your doorstep in a week to ten days. That all sounds like pie in the sky but I’m feeling a bit like a cat on a hot tin roof about shelling out cash before laying my eyes on the car. Has anyone walked this road before? Or did you actually bite the bullet and buy from them? I’m all ears to get the lowdown on the process, payment, and vehicle details. Your thoughts would be worth their weight in gold.

without a doubt motor oil

in 2004

What is the current year?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=transmission fluid&campid=5338181132&customid=2518X1570512X775ee233ed6e28e61d8620a43fef3dce&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&subId2=15&toolid=10001

The fluid may be gearbox fluid, as the cooler is integrated within the radiator. Alternatively, conduct a leak-down test, as the head gasket may have failed.

I discovered a significant quantity of oil in my coolant reservoir. I extracted it and substituted some coolant. I aim to ascertain the source of the leak, and many have suggested that it is an issue with the oil cooler. Nevertheless, the oil cooler I located is positioned on the front driver's side beneath the bumper. This system is fan-assisted and features two connected cooler pipes. I do not observe any coolant lines linked to the oil cooler. Where are the oil and coolant systems interconnected? Thank you

???

How do you resolve the issue?

Thank you for your response. It is peculiar that disconnecting the crank sensor results in the car starting identically to when it is connected; the vehicle never stalls, and the sole problem I encounter is difficulty in starting.

Examine the pipework leading to the pre-turbine pressure sensor for obstructions, and also inspect the differential sensor pipework for blockages, in addition to reviewing live data for DPF pressures. To ascertain the functionality of the crank sensor, it is advisable to utilise an oscilloscope to verify signal production; nonetheless, it is likely operational, as the engine would cease to function in its absence. I presume it is a diesel engine. A tone wheel is located on the crank behind the flywheel, generating the crank signal; in diesel engines, the cam sensor is utilised for starting, while the crank signal assumes control once the engine is operational. Which equipment have you utilised for scanning?

I possess a 2015 BMW 325 F30. Experiencing difficulties with a difficult start and some oscillation. The automobile consistently starts, albeit after several cranks, regardless of temperature conditions. I have connected it and possess several codes. 25D400: Exhaust pressure sensor located before the turbine, range: exceeded top physical limit. 273F00: Crankshaft sensor, signal: no signal detected. I have replaced the crankshaft and camshaft sensors, verified the voltage, and all is functioning properly. Do you have any suggestions for what I should examine next?

It is recommended to remove any old gasoline and replace it with fresh before continuing with the issue discovery process, as the fuel will also become stale after three years of sitting.

An easy approach to check for a vacuum leak is to start the car while unplugging the MAF. After that, is it more efficient?

But now we're back to the original problem: mixing. Getting too much gas or air is either happening or the car is experiencing this problem. Pull the plugs in the morning as instructed before starting the engine. Run a light down the holes that hold the spark plugs.look for signs of moisture on the piston tops. Verify that the outlets' tips are moist. Indeed, injectors that are leaking. Check the injectors; are they black or grey in colour? If they are grey, it means they are ancient, leaky index injectors. The housing of the more recent index 11 injectors is black. Take the plug out of the maf sensor and turn the key to start the engine if everything seems OK. It probably is a hoover leak if it runs well. The presence or absence of a hissing sound is proportional to the leak's size and location. I have the N53, so I'm not entirely sure where the CCV pips are on the N46. However, I'm sure there are plenty of videos on YouTube that would help you out. Before anything else, check the maf and plugs. Report back with your findings.

Just to clarify, was the engine change completed before or after the three-year period of inactivity? I'm rereading your message. Are the plugs in question new or old? If you could tell me what additional errors you're getting, that would be great. In my opinion, the rough idling is not caused by the vanos solenoids. You might as well check if they are effective now that you've started down this path. If the plunger inside the solenoids cannot be heard moving when shaken, it is recommended to replace them. Locate the valves.

Good day, To start, I really appreciate your response; it's been really helpful. In the event that the vanos solenoids become "totally stuck" without making a clattering sound, I will remove them and give them a good shake. Is there a way to fix them or will I need to purchase new ones? Please provide some visual aid, such as a link, video, or image, so that I may see the vanos check valves as well. I'm still learning the ropes of auto repair, so I'm not that knowledgeable about this (haha). When I reinstalled the air intake box, I thought I could hear air leaking, but 1) the engine is really loud and 2) I have no idea what to listen for, haha. Can you provide another link that highlights the CCV pipe? Thank you so much; I will also conduct some research on my own. The spark plugs were completely black and charred, yet they did not contain any oil. Im going to include a picture of spark plugs. I believe I can run live values with my extremely capable mid-high-end obd scanner. I'll scan it and see what comes up if you could be more detailed. And lastly, I want to express my deepest gratitude for all of your assistance.

Shake the vanos solenoids once more after removing them. Are you perceiving a faint clattering noise? If they don't, they're in utter limbo. Sludge can also accumulate at the vanos check valves, which are situated along the liner of the wheel arch on the passenger side. Still, I think it's more of a mixing issue. Since the vehicle has been inactive for an extended period of time, numerous potential issues have accrued. Do you know whether there are any hoover leaks? A frequent location for CCV pipe is behind the valve cover. Damaged Diaphragm or Cover of Valve Are the spark plug wells greasy in any way? Check the plugs after letting the car sit overnight; do they seem wet or do you detect a strong petrol odour? In that case, perhaps injectors that are leaking. Is there a way to see if it's running lean or rich with live value reporting?

Salutations everyone, For anyone curious, I've been attempting to fix a BMW that we owned for almost 12 years. About three years ago (2022), it unexpectedly died, and my dad attempted to fix it but forgot. He parked it in our front yard, where it has remained for the last three years. I began working on it in October, but with my part-time job and school responsibilities, I don't have much spare time. Here are the components and fixes that I have applied thus far. Although the number on the body is 200k, the engine mileage is closer to 37k, because my uncle installed a new engine when it was previously owned by him. Initial symptoms before to undertaking any task: • Inactive • Vibrations in the engine • Fluttering-like unstable RPMs • Pressing the throttle completely causes it to not rev past approximately 1500 RPM. • Starting from scratch (different attempts) After around five to eight minutes of running, the car would finally calm down, but it would still run and idle poorly. Current tasks (in chronological order): • Fuel pump replaced • Put in four brand-new spark plugs from Bosch performed a plug-and-unplug test on the coils • Took off the airbox, changed the air filter, and used WD-40 electrical contact cleaner to clean the MAF sensor. • Took out the VANOS solenoids, cleaned them using WD-40 contact cleaner, and put them back where they came from. The vehicle was operating (roughly, but running) before VANOS was cleaned. Following your VANOS cleaning: • Cranks, but won't start, engine • Cranked normally at first, but after a few tries it started cranking more slowly; I suspect the battery was dying since the dash began to flutter as it was cranking very slowly, and finally it stopped cranking altogether. Further details: • Although it has been removed, the battery was first run with the transit vent plugs still installed, even though it is just a couple months old. • A wall charger has been used to charge the battery. MAF was given ample time to air dry before being reinstalled; following the reinstallation, it ran smoothly. There are a few irrelevant codes that come up in the OBD scan, but nothing that specifically mentions VANOS. The VANOS connectors are correctly inserted. • Now I'm not entirely certain that this is the problem, but I cleaned the VANOS solenoids and, in my foolishness, didn't wait for them to dry before putting them back in. However, after doing some more research, I found that this might not be the case. What are the questions? Can cleaning VANOS solenoids cause a complete lack of starting? Is it possible that the WD-40 contact cleaner completely ruined the VANOS solenoids? Now what am I supposed to do or verify? Struggling to find the problem methodically while avoiding tossing parts at it. Please provide whatever guidance you can. If anyone is interested in seeing images or videos of the travel, I have chronicled it quite a bit. Just let me know!

It would be beneficial to have a service manager who is persistent with MB and to have the dealer inspect it. possibly the spot where a windscreen was previously changed; there may be some minor chips.

According to the corrosion guarantee, the panel must be perforated both internally and externally. 👍

therefore far, I haven't noticed any chips or damage to the paint, therefore I'm guessing the rust is coming from underneath?

Get ready to be let down.

I would say yes if the rust has gone all the way through, but no if they can show that the rust was caused by stone chips or damage and is visible from the outside. Bring it up with the dealer and enquire about it.