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Hey everyone, I’m on looking for a first car for my daughter's birthday and noticed a 2022 Fiat 500 on FB Marketplace posted by Lamsam Logistics. At first blush I thought I was dealing with a private seller, but it turns out I’ve stumbled upon a Belfast based transport company that’s also in the business of selling repossessed vehicles. They’ve thrown their hat in the ring with home delivery to Somerset, promising it’ll be on your doorstep in a week to ten days. That all sounds like pie in the sky but I’m feeling a bit like a cat on a hot tin roof about shelling out cash before laying my eyes on the car. Has anyone walked this road before? Or did you actually bite the bullet and buy from them? I’m all ears to get the lowdown on the process, payment, and vehicle details. Your thoughts would be worth their weight in gold.

I would be more concerned about an ignition problem if the indicated revs suddenly dropped. When shifting gears, under what conditions might the engine speed decrease as a result of a slipping clutch? If the gear indicator warning light comes on, it's likely because the car has detected the stated decrease in revs and believes you're trying to overwork the engine. The car would slow down if the engine rpm suddenly drop, so it's possible that the revs are hesitating rather than dropping. However, since the tacho and gear indicator advisory are powered by ignition pulses, they can be influenced by a misfire. It is necessary to read the code that is thrown when the ignition fails to work. Sixth gear on my six-speed manual gearbox allowed me 30 mph at 1000 rpm, fifth gear 25 mph and fourth gear 20 mph. By comparing the pace at which the engine is revving in relation to the revolutions per minute (rpm), you should be able to identify clutch slip.

What matters most for early clutch wear is how the clutch has been handled by prior owners, not the mileage or history of the vehicle.

It doesn't make much noise, and the main problem is that the RPMs dip suddenly before they level out again. Which is illogical because, as you point out, the revs should increase before lowering when clutch slip is present. At some time in the future, I will probably meet with a mechanic, but until then, I should try to record it happening so I can study it better. The vehicle has a clean service history at an MB garage and very little mileage, so it's a real bummer.

If the engine speed increases as you approach peak torque and then decreases as you decelerate or exceed peak torque, it's quite probable that your clutch is Donald Duck-y.Putting it in top gear at approximately 50 makes it somewhat labour, which is another test. Be sure not to take your foot off the throttle while you swiftly depress the clutch pedal and then release it. The engine should rev quickly before lowering with a thud when the clutch is fully engaged. If the revs take a while to fall back down and they do it with a slur, it's time to change the clutch.

This is a six-speed manual gearbox truck. The clutch is sliding, I apologise. With a little more force, it reaches about 3,000 rpm, then abruptly decreases before continuing. The dashboard is error-free, and the car should have been maintained before being handed to me, but I can't verify the exact details.

Does it have an automatic or manual gearbox? Contrary to what you said, a manual gearbox cannot slip; nevertheless, the clutch may.

With a manual gearbox? It is unclear, but it is what the original poster implied in the title of the post.

At 40,000 miles, you should change the oil and filter.

Salutations Everyone, A 2016 C200 SE with a mere 59,000 miles on the odometer is now mine. It usually drives smoothly and quickly when you want it to, but there's a problem I've been noticing. (I will return to the independent garage from whom I purchased if anyone can suggest a possible solution to my problem.) As I accelerate to around 3000 rpm, I see that the rev counter decreases and then shoots back up, giving the impression that the gears are slipping. Additionally, you could notice that the gear change indicator thing momentarily appears. You can get past the strange hesitancy, but it won't inspire much confidence if I want to overtake you. If I'm in third gear and want to get on the highway, but I don't shift up, the car will stall between 2500 and 3000 rpm. It does the same in fourth and fifth gears as well. The automobile forces you to take short shifts, so the rpm don't reach very high anyway, even though it seems fine on normal driving. I understand that I need to contact the seller, but I would appreciate it if someone else could provide more information so that I can get a better diagnosis based on my inadequate description.Please let me know if anyone can assist; I'm happy to provide additional information if necessary.

Sure, I took the vehicle identification number (VIN) and other forms of identification to the MB dealership so they could transfer ownership of the vehicle to me. However, the problem with the internet still persisted. Following st13phil's advice, I contacted Command yesterday; I'm considering bringing the vehicle there for inspection.

Am I still obligated to pay the former owner for this Mercedes-Benz? Only a dealer can attach it to you, as far as I remember.

MB and others charge around £250 for an hour of labour.

https://www.commandonline.co.uk/Mercedes-iPod-solutions/?AffDirectURL=https://www.commandonline.co.uk/

Contact these individuals:

Salutations everyone, It appears like there's a problem linking my new GLA 220d reg 2021 to either the internet or the Mercedes Me app. Even though I have the digital extra for the Remote Package turned on, I still can't open or close the doors, find the car, etc. Still, the Me button works in the vehicle for making calls. I can rule out an app-related problem because I didn't experience this with the prior A-Class. My research has led me to believe that the Hermes module—which allows the vehicle to communicate with the internet and the app—may be at problem or in need of a software update; however, I cannot say for sure at this time. The MB shop in Dartford told me I'd have to pay an outrageous £250 to have a diagnosis; after that, we'll figure out what the problem is. A couple local independent dealerships that focus on MB either didn't understand my question or suggested I contact MB directly. Does anyone have any insight on how to fix this from personal experience? I reside in Bromley, in case this is useful. Thank you ahead of time.

I upgraded the exhaust system on my SV650. The initial aim was to fit it and then remove it for each MOT. You get what I mean; well, riding a bike makes things simpler, but still. Anything is possible when one is determined.

I'll give you an example: https://themotorbikeforum.co.uk/topic/50868-aftermarket-exhaust-mot/

Basically, it's a game of cat and mouse. With a massive underground economy, the authorities are frantically trying to catch up. However, the trade in unlawful modifications will persist so long as there are individuals ready to purchase and others wanting to sell.

I remember hearing Olly's a few years ago; it sounded normal until he pressed the gas pedal to the floor.

I see your point. Earlier today, I stopped into a nearby MOT station. It turns out that VOSA is releasing new emissions testing devices that connect to the OBD2 port in addition to the tail pipe emissions output measuring device. According to the tester, it records the engine temperature, revs, and other data from the car under test. Therefore, it may be worthwhile to keep all the cats for the time being.

No matter how well it passes the emissions test, removing either cat would technically result in a MOT failure because it is against the rules to remove or alter any factory-fit emissions equipment. Before you remark, "Well, mine passed without secondary," I'll respond: that's fine; we all know it happens sometimes, but it shouldn't. Both of my local test guys have been through mystery shop style inspections this year. One of them had a hollow DPF, which he found, and the other had an EGR that was missing (not programmed out). Now that he's doing so well on his tests, things will only become worse. Adblue deleters and kitten removers, take note: the Ministry will be pursuing you shortly, if not this year or even next.😄

Gold is the colour of choice for C63 m156 mufflers (backboxes). They are also very expensive when used.

Much obliged. I am at the age where I can't stand drone very much anymore, so I'm keeping the resonator even though I was looking at c63 backboxes.

If you plan on removing the primary cats and replacing them with LTHs and 200 cel sports cats, you'll probably have to code out the O2 sensors. In addition, you increase the likelihood of a MOT failure—perhaps not immediately, but in the future when regulations change. My E55's secondary cats were recently swapped out for an x-pipe. Obtaining a set of C63 M156 back boxes will allow you to fully unlock the vehicle. The only part that needs to be trimmed and rewelded to suit the E55 are the hangers.