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Now I'm having doubts! Each of the square-shaped alloys has a 9x18 dimension and an ET of 42. Shows: Will they be a good fit? A only three centimetres separate us from suspension! seems like a lot. Alert from Google AI: If you own a Mercedes-Benz SLK from the R170 or R171 generation, you may run a 9x18-inch square layout; however, you'll need to pay close attention to the offsets to prevent rubbing, particularly on the front axle.

Oh, I see. I happened upon a set (I hope!) on the Bay the other day. How fortunate!

You "should" furthermore have the deflector panels on the bumper behind the wheels for the broader rears. That being said, I think they should fit.

Seems like these fancy "turbine" chaps may work...All R171 alloys are interchangeable, right?

The car's present wheels are these cosy 16-inch alloys.

Since your pin numbering does not correspond to the numbering that ought to be printed on the connection, I am perplexed. Probably overlooked something important when reviewing your data, but it doesn't really matter. It appears that sometimes wires sometimes cause inaccurate readings; for example, circuit 30 appeared to be functioning OK, but one of the 30L variables was reading 0 instead of 12. I am unsure if it is due to the SAM's load protection or anything else. Neither the indicator nor any of the other lights have their own specific cable. Nothing more than CAN, C30, and C30L ground wires.

Is the code in brackets a reference to a diagram? Thank you for the response. Finding circuit schematics online has also never been my strong suit. I've included a photo of the plug on the passenger side (I apologise for the skewed orientation). My plan is to number them from highest to lowest, starting at the left. For the left-hand side of the picture, we have 1 = 0 volts and 2 = 11.8 volts. Three equals the ground level 4 = 12v (5) times 12 volts 6—empty 7—empty The image's right-hand side 8-Rightmost 8-volt = 0 9 = 0v 10 — empty 11. - empty 12 = 0 volts 13—empty 14—empty The one on the driver's side is the same, with the exception In the upper left corner, 1 equals 2.7 volts. With 2=0, Although I haven't had the opportunity to take a reading of the plugs while the car is in that state, the DRLs do function again with merely the ignition turned on after it has been off all night. After a while, the passenger DRL either completely turns off (sometimes) or lingers in a flickering condition; nevertheless, the defect immediately reappears when driving or using the indication. I may receive somewhat different results when the DRL is switched on, as these readings were taken while it was completely off on the passenger side. I will not be able to recheck this until at least Saturday because I am away from the office all week for work. In case anyone needs it while looking for a wiring diagram, the vehicle identification number is WDD2052642F896389.

The front light connection pinout is pe82.10-p-2000-97fbc; I tried searching for it on Google but came up empty. A wiring diagram would be helpful here. You can label the connection pin number or the colour of the wire according to your specifications. Regrettably, the SAM does not have a dedicated on/off wire; instead, everything is CAN-controlled; if you have information on the vehicle's VIN and 641 lights, that would be helpful.

The problem reappeared after a drive; the next step is to switch out the modules on the driver's side, which will require removing the bumper. A bumper removal is in need since the next step is to switch out the driver's side modules.

The answers to my two queries up there are no, so I can update. Interestingly, I turned on the ignition and side lights this morning (without starting the engine), and both DRLs worked well. I proceeded to activate the danger lights, and they are both flashing well. Despite keeping the hazards on, I was unable to discern an alternating signal on either of the headlight plugs. One thing I did uncover is that there is a pin on the driver's side that is 2.7 volts, while the identical pin on the passenger side is 11.8 volts. Everything else has been a complete mystery to me. I seem to recall that the moment I attempt to turn left while driving the car, the fault and the flickering DRL will return. Could it be that the problem resets after a specific duration, indicating a potential issue with communication between the SAM and the DRL/Turn signal module? Therefore, I am not really sure what to verify next. Unfortunately, the front divers side SAM option does not have the possibility to access live data in scan tool. I was previously aware that there was voltage there from using the multimeter, but there are live data streams for other settings that pertain to the front left light and the front left LED matrix. I plan to run a new scan today to look for information under a different category, maybe the Body Control Module? I would be quite receptive to any more recommendations for what to verify. For example, is there anything in the SAM module that I should verify? Thank you very much.

Greetings everyone, It seems that nobody has come to a resolution despite the abundance of posts concerning DRL concerns. Assuming I am successful in solving it, I will see to it that this one does as well. It is a 2019 C43 S205. Listed here are the headlights: A2059069505 from Multibeam. I was travelling when the dashboard started flashing error warnings about a problem with the side lights, turn signals, and parking lights. I pulled over to inspect something, and the passenger-side DRL was flashing and the indicator wasn't functioning. Both the passenger-side rear cluster and side mirror indicators worked perfectly when I was behind the wheel. The car's indicator switching was lightning fast. The drivers' side is functioning normally. I left some silica packets in the headlight overnight because it had some dampness. When I turned on the left-hand indicator this morning, the DRL began rapidly switching on and off, and then it either stopped working altogether or flickered intermittently. This happened during the first start of the day. After realising that the DRL module is the tiniest of the three on each headlamp assembly, I swapped out the old, broken headlight with the spare this morning, but it still didn't work. Low and high beam operations are not affected by this. After looking for a signal at the plug, I was unable to find one. Using a multimeter, I was expecting to pick up an alternating current between 0 and 12 volts on one of the plug wires. Make sure the 12v power source is available. After switching the modules, I reinserted the previous headlamp into the socket, but it didn't work either. I don't think it was a valid test, though, because the two major modules were missing from that headlight. Thus, the crux of my question is: Is it possible to use a multimeter to detect an oscillating voltage at the main headlight connector when the indicators are turned on? I have previously verified that my 12v supply and ground are fine. Tomorrow I can try it on the driver's side to make sure it's true. (B) Assuming the previous point is correct, is it possible to trace the same wire back to the SAM module and check there as well? The present thinking is that it's a problem with SAM. Additionally, I can't seem to figure out if the SAM module is in the passenger side cabin or up near the battery. B162A64, B16EF64, U118A08, and U118A67 are generally communications-related issues that I've discovered during scanning. Would really appreciate any advise you can provide. PS: I like to troubleshoot on my own before taking it to the shop, so please don't advise that I do so; I will do so if I am unable to resolve the issue, but I am not giving up just yet. Notify me if any more information is needed.

Would you be so kind as to resend the link to the video? Upon opening it, I failed to discover any information pertaining to this vehicle. Much obliged.

This video was found using a fast Google search, but there will be more.

Just how? That was my first inquiry.

Detach the bumper.

Can you tell me how to access the sensor for the front parking?

Apply a little WD-40 or something similar once it has dried. Wash them gently with a jet-wash.

Hi everyone, After a few quick washes at the vehicle wash, I observed that my 2014 X5's front parking sensor isn't functioning properly; it keeps beeping even when the engine is off. Has anybody here replaced or cleaned this particular sensor before? Thank you very much.

Playing CDs is all I do; I'd rather not deal with uploading, downloading, or flash drives; all I need is an easy-to-pluggable CD player, and I can listen to CDs of pleasant days.

I mean, why not just load up a USB flashdrive with the CDs and throw it into the car?

Yeah, I had the same thing in my old Evoque, beneath the driver's seat, and I just installed it in my current C-HR 🙃 back to the old school!

vintage 🙂 🙂 😂

I needed a CD player as my car didn't come with one, so I bought this brand new, unopened one on eBay. vintage, possesses a sizable CD collection, and is a joy to own for £35; all it needs is a USB connection to function.

I'm in favour of swapping out the springs with sport or avantgarde ones. If you are unsure of what you need and happen to live near a Mercedes dealership, I recommend visiting their parts counter. Provide them with your car's year and specifications, and enquire as to whether there is a different part number of spring available for the Avantgarde spec version of that same year. Write down the part number and purchase them (not necessarily from the dealership). If you already have a spring compressor tool, all you need to do is find a garage and have them replace them out. Is your vehicle equipped with standard steel front and rear springs? Some models may have air springs in the back, which may be easily identified by removing the rear wheel.