All Activity

It can only be attributed to a poor connection. When you jump-start it, are you utilising the jump point located under the hood? Inspect the ground connection as well as the one on the engine.

I become rather anxious in the absence of crack; you will be OK.

If there is no power or connection to the battery owing to corroded connections in the battery box, there will also be no output at the alternator terminal.

I will need to investigate tomorrow morning. Thank you. Do you have any insights into the zero voltage from the alternator and the method I employed for testing it?

What is the status of the transfer points? They are located in the battery compartment and are only visible when the battery is removed. If water has been present in the box, it is quite probable that they have decayed.

All wires originating from the battery and power distribution box appear to be clean and free of corrosion; however, there was a quantity of stagnant water in the battery tray, which has already been removed.

The primary electrical conduit from the battery to the engine compartment appears to have malfunctioned; remove the battery and inspect the connection points. I would speculate that it has decayed.

The title indicates that my E93 experiences a no-charge or no-crank issue, yet it may be jump-started. I conducted research on this topic and found minimal information. I have purchased a new battery, although there is still no ignition without a jump start. Attempted to install an alternative power distribution box and conducted continuity testing on what I believe to be the best option. All cabin lights and controls appear to function as indicated. I have directly checked the alternator, connecting the red wire to the red cable from the alternator and grounding the black wire. However, this method yields no voltage. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much

Page 5-89 of the user manual. The driver assistance settings are appropriately located in the cluster, thereby preserving your selection. Modify it with the buttons on the driving wheel.

I have not identified an option to disable this warning on the new model Niro. What is the location of the setting, and does it remain deactivated upon the subsequent engine ignition?

I consistently deactivate mine. The last thing I desire is an additional caution light indicating a temperature of 3°C or below. I can resolve that independently.

Continuing to receive it in my 2020 E-Niro.

I am certain that I received an Icy Road Warning last year (Winter 2024/25), yet this year, notwithstanding the cold spell, no such warnings have been issued. The ability to enable or disable this feature, previously located under 'Settings/Cluster,' has vanished. Does anyone else own this? I am curious whether the feature was eliminated in the most recent software upgrade (2025).

Regrettably, the 2008 SL I refer to lacks a filler cover on the reservoir, representing further regression by Mercedes-Benz.

This resembles a topic that our dearly missed member Television would have expounded upon with great alacrity, either here or on MBOA. A search for threads by Television on the issue may yield beneficial results.

I visited MB today, and they concur that the driver's door glass requires adjustment to prevent the quarter light from leaking. It requires two hours for sorting.

Primary driver's door, with a leak from the quarter lamp at the rear.

Therefore, it is the rear quarter panel, not the back window? In that instance, it may arise from the same problem.

I replace the ZHM fluid in my R129s biennially, to the best of my ability. With the roof retracted and the reservoir at maximum capacity, remove the spare wheel and unscrew the filler cap. Utilise a syringe to extract as much fluid as feasible, then replenish to the level mark, which should be at maximum with the roof down and all rams fully compressed. Alternatively, record the level prior to extraction and refill to the same level. A complete fluid change is never performed; but, by conducting this maintenance biennially, I encountered no issues with the roof hydraulics over the seven years and 150,000 miles of my previous SL. I acquired my current vehicle in August 2025 and will undertake the initial fluid change this summer to assess its condition. I was informed when acquiring my first SL that frequent fluid changes and consistent usage were the optimal methods to maintain the roof hydraulics in excellent condition. During my seven years of ownership, the hardtop was scarcely affixed to my vehicle; I utilised the car daily and maintained the roof in a retracted position almost every day, except during inclement weather. I even operated it with the roof down in winter conditions, provided the ambient temperature did not fall below 8 degrees Celsius, as stipulated in the manual to prevent damage to the plastic windows of the soft top.

Upon further investigation, the foundational measurement should be 30mm from the window edge to the door trim. The passenger measures 25mm. The movement is influenced by the curvature of the glass, causing it to ascend as well. This effectively demonstrates the location of the problem. Does not resolve the quarter pane issue; I can accept that.

Essentially, when I performed the task, there was a significant accumulation of dust and grit in the regions where the seals interfold. I was informed that there is no official service for the hydraulic pump itself; it is likely acceptable to use it within the warranty term, but all hydraulic fluid deteriorates over time. I have observed online DIY methods involving the creation of an aperture in the top of the hydraulic reservoir, since drilling may risk introducing plastic debris into the tank, followed by extracting the oil with a syringe and replenishing it. Rubber or silicone bung, task completed. It may not be necessary for an eight-year-old vehicle, contingent upon the frequency of the roof's operation.

I cannot provide commentary on the R231; but, regarding the R129, when removing the door card, one may find multiple precise adjustments for the window glass position, including vertical (up/down), horizontal (back/forward), and tilt (in/out) at each clamp securing the glass's lower edge to the window regulator mechanism. If not secured enough, the glass may become misaligned; conversely, if clamped excessively, it could fracture. The method is intricate and complex, hence it is prudent to seek assistance from an experienced individual. However, if you have already attempted to reset the closed position by pressing the keys for several seconds without success, the issue may be mechanical rather than electrical. The door glass should not impact the rear window unless water is splashing from the side window at high speed. Do the panel gaps in the various portions of your vario roof appear correct? Could an extraneous object have infiltrated the seals, creating a gap? My initial R129 was somewhat of a misfit, having approximately 13 prior owners; nonetheless, it was inexpensive, and I was unperturbed by the modifications made by previous individuals. The current vehicle I possess is a pristine, low-mileage, and unaltered model, which I aim to maintain in its original condition. It may be advisable to consult an individual with extensive knowledge of the model; in their absence, it could be worthwhile to visit the SL Shop.

https://www.krytox.com/en/-/media/files/krytox/grease-oil-lubrication-sunroof-systems.pdf?rev=cc9a9d973fef4060bf2569eb61f0b44a

2017 model makeover, 53,000 miles. I am unfamiliar with the concept of a roof service; however, I applied silicone oil to the seals and supported the roof during the process.

Is this an R231? What is the mileage and age? Have you completed the roof sealing service?